|
|
|
What did you do to your Race/Track Bike today - 2014
- Thread starter ZX600
- Start date
I told you which one to get a few pages back
http://hmquickshifter.com/Works sweet with the Techtronics CABS unit for clutchless downshifts too
Today I removed the bent mid-pipe and removed the pretty much destroyed tail tray.
Anybody want a carbon/Ti Arata can? the end cap needs to be shaped back to working form and the whole thing shortened maybe 1 inch to remove the smashed end. $50...
Anybody want a carbon/Ti Arata can? the end cap needs to be shaped back to working form and the whole thing shortened maybe 1 inch to remove the smashed end. $50...
More importantly, how are you doing?
I have a new QS switch coming from Bazzaz. We'll see if that fixes the problem.
While I was about 4km into a 10km run a few days ago an idea popped into my head. I got home and opened up the Z-Mapper program and went to the QS tab and checked the cut times. Well, it turns out that you can actually set the cut times for each gear to zero. Knowing that, I can load the same fuel map and TC settings into map 1 and 2, then I can set all QS cut times in map 2 to zero which will essentially disable the QS. Then I can use the handlebar switch to enable/disable the QS on the fly if the problem comes back.
I know that I do have a technical background and that my job entails electro-mechanical troubleshooting of military equipment... but I'm still a little annoyed that I had to come up with this work-around on my own. I have 5 DNFs at SOAR this season in which I could have scored some good points/hardware/contingency had I been able to disable QS on the fly. Oh well.
While I was about 4km into a 10km run a few days ago an idea popped into my head. I got home and opened up the Z-Mapper program and went to the QS tab and checked the cut times. Well, it turns out that you can actually set the cut times for each gear to zero. Knowing that, I can load the same fuel map and TC settings into map 1 and 2, then I can set all QS cut times in map 2 to zero which will essentially disable the QS. Then I can use the handlebar switch to enable/disable the QS on the fly if the problem comes back.
I know that I do have a technical background and that my job entails electro-mechanical troubleshooting of military equipment... but I'm still a little annoyed that I had to come up with this work-around on my own. I have 5 DNFs at SOAR this season in which I could have scored some good points/hardware/contingency had I been able to disable QS on the fly. Oh well.
Loved how you dropped that in there nonchalantly. Who the hell goes for a 10-km run? Are you training for a marathon, or was something scary chasing you???
I was being chased by losing... so yes.
Funny, I eat Doritos and chocolate milk when I loose. I'm getting sick of it.
Prime rib, potatoes, mega mass 9000! Gotta keep the front end down somehow.
LOL
A question for those of you with BrakeTech Iron rotors. What kind of maintenance do these things need? I know they're not supposed to get wet or if they do, you're supposed to wipe them down ASAP. Is that the only issue or is there anything else? Just debating if I should get a set or not.
They can get wet, just don't leave them wet.
No special maintenance that I know of or do.
If you are the type to wash your bike and keep it clean on occasion, these rotors will drive you nuts, because washing the bike involves water. So you either have a clean bike and nasty, rusty brake rotors, or a dirty bike and non-rusted rotors.
They work very well ... they just look awful if the bike has seen water and wasn't ridden immediately afterward.
|
|
|
|
|