Shell Rotella T6 oil on Sale at Canadian Tire | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Shell Rotella T6 oil on Sale at Canadian Tire

Quick update: Just switched over to this from Motul (did the oil change last night). Rode it to work, no issues so far..lets see how it goes. ;)
 
HuKo said:
I'm assuming this will be okay for my 09 600?

Currently i'm using Motul:
motul_7100_10w40_600.jpg


Will switching over to this cause an issue?

429277-20130627061446-shell-rotella-t-synthetic-diesel-5w40-motor-oil.jpg


I'm also a tad confused, why does it say: Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil, 5 L (is it safe for us since we use regular gosoline)


Also will it make a difference since it'll be 5W-40 instead of 10W-40. I have the habit of riding way below freezing temp during winter..and I usually ride around 5k - 7k rpm
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Diesel and gas are internal combustion engines that need lubrication like your motorcycle engine. The major differences are most MC engine rev consideably higher than car/truck engines, and most have an integrated/unitised gear box. Changing your oil and filter more frequently addresses the higher rpm issue, and getting an automotive oil that does not have energy conserving/friction reducers in it is absolutely necessary to avoid clutch slipping.

Any motoroil with the right viscosity range, like 10/20 w 40/50 that does not have energy conserving friction modifiers will do. The one you choose is up to you. But my feedback is to stay away from 5w oil, go 10 syn at lowest for cold temps. The 5 w oil is too "thin" to give you the protection you need between meshing parts like the gear box, and a good syn 10 or even 20 weight, will flow *very well* on cold start ups. (I used good quality 5w50 motor oil in my bike for several oil changes and found far more swarf on the pan plug, [nothing out of acceptable range mind you] than when using a 20w50, or 10w40 and that speaks for itself: more swarf, more wear)

I chose mine based on shift quality, for bikes I own(ed) with integrated/unitised gear boxes, more so than anything else, because I change oil and filter frequently. Try several types as the shift quality will vary and degrade at different mileages.

For bikes I've own(ed) that have pre-unit construction, the engine oil can have friction mofifiers, as long as it has the right viscosity.

I have yet to see an automobile oil that is 5/10/20w40/50, that has energy conservers/friction modifiers in it. Look on the front or rear label for the SAE label, and that will tell you if the oil contains any energy conservers.

MC specific oils are a HUGE waste of money...HUGE waste of money!!!! People who buy and use them have drunk the kool-aid and are beyond reason, but a good quality automobile oil will protect as well, and in my experience, provide better quality shifting for longer periods of time for 1/2 the price sometimes.

Mobil 1, 20w50 is simply the best in my experience, but difficult to find at times.

YMMV. :cool:
 
Fyi if you act fast, CT will honour last week's sale price. I just picked up a jug of this rotella for $34

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Just bought two 5 liter jugs of the non synthetic for $26 each, at Can. tire.
 
On sale this week again
 
I run the T6. When the bike get hot, its difficult to shift to neutral from first. However an oil analysis doesn't show any wear, plus there was still some some detergent after 10k km
 
Eglinton /Warden to be exact

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LG416 said:
I hear a lot of guys use Rotella T6 and have no problems, but I always stick to Motul. currently using Motul 300v and I think it was $56 for 4L which is not that much
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It may not be much but it's close to double what you can get the Rotella for if you find a good sale.

I run it in everything unless I end up with some deal on a different brand for my car. New bike takes just gear and injection oil, though, so no more T6 in bikes for me.
 
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