Propane vs gas generator | Page 5 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Propane vs gas generator

Bobo said:
I've got two Honda generators, the Eu2000 (inverter)and the EP2500cx(conventional brush type)The EU2000 is a great little generator and I use it 90% of the time due to its portability but it has it's limitations?Could it run a furnace and fridge? I would say probably as I've done it before but it would struggle on startup.The EP2500 definitely has more punch for starting heavier equipment ,for instance it will start up a small compressor that I have but the EU2000 won't.The EP2500 will easily run a furnace and fridge and still be able to do some lighting.Its a heavy little mo fo but will run much longer on a tank of gas than the Eu2000(8 hours as opposed to 4 1/2 loaded up).Yes the inverter is a better choice for electronics but with a decent conventional generator you probably will never have a problem with circuit boards etc.I paid $799 for the EP2500 and $1299 for the Eu2000.Hope that helps.Basically the Eu2000 is great but the cheaper EP2500 makes a better workhorse.Throw a sump pump into the equation and the choice becomes clear.
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I have a similar set and think the 2500 conventional has more brute force. Pure speculation is that Honda protects the EU types with quick trip breakers to protect the electronics.

Going to the original question I see two concerns.

1) Will the generator run the furnace?

2) Will the furnace develop any problems due to circuit fluctuations?

Question 1 can be resolved with a five minute test. Question 2 is the trickier one. What good is a generator if a circuit board or motor gets fried in the furnace? Sometimes the failure is instant but in other cases it takes repeated surges / spikes to do the dirty deed.

I'm pretty sure the furnace makers would not officially approve powering with a generator. Why should they? The variables in generator types and user competence are too great.
 
Personally I've never worried about, or had any problems with my electronics on my non inverter Honda generator as even the non-inverter Hondas have built in voltage regulators so you don't fry your electronics.

but I guess for the paranoid types, or when using a lesser brand generator, you could always install an inline surge protector......
 
The problem with generators and digital electronics is not surge of voltage but the frequency of the alternating current.
The output frequency of AC on a generator is dependant on engine RPM.

No surge protector is going to solve frequency issues.
 
bitzz said:
The problem with generators and digital electronics is not surge of voltage but the frequency of the alternating current.
The output frequency of AC on a generator is dependant on engine RPM.

No surge protector is going to solve frequency issues.
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How about a giant capacitor or battery in-between?
 
bitzz said:
The problem with generators and digital electronics is not surge of voltage but the frequency of the alternating current.
The output frequency of AC on a generator is dependant on engine RPM.

No surge protector is going to solve frequency issues.
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Why re-invent the wheel? Inverter generators do this for you and are easily obtainable up to 7000W.

Most switching power supplies are reasonably tolerant to fluctuations Many tolerate <100V and frequencies between 47 and 63 Hz. So computers should be fine unless the generator is really out to lunch. I'm not sure about things like furnaces.
 
Bobo said:
Throw a sump pump into the equation and the choice becomes clear.
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Bingo. We missed out on the ice storm here in Niagara, but we did have a wild thaw accompanied with a power outage in the spring. I was barely able to power my sump pump with a CTC 2000W invertor on a 30' 14 ga extension cord. The invertor is permanently installed in my service truck, and is connected to it's 875cca battery with 2 ga battery cable. I've been on the hunt for a EP2500 or similar in my budget since.
 
theraymondguy said:
Bingo. We missed out on the ice storm here in Niagara, but we did have a wild thaw accompanied with a power outage in the spring. I was barely able to power my sump pump with a CTC 2000W invertor on a 30' 14 ga extension cord. The invertor is permanently installed in my service truck, and is connected to it's 875cca battery with 2 ga battery cable. I've been on the hunt for a EP2500 or similar in my budget since.
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I ran my brother's sump pump on an old 1400 watt conventional Honda. Worked fine.

Many years ago I had a made in North America 12 / 120 inverter in my service van and it worked fine. I screwed it up and bought a bigger one made on the Pacific rim. It didn't have the guts of the NA one. Is there a quality issue with cheap imports?
 
GreyGhost said:
Why re-invent the wheel? Inverter generators do this for you and are easily obtainable up to 7000W.

Most switching power supplies are reasonably tolerant to fluctuations Many tolerate <100V and frequencies between 47 and 63 Hz. So computers should be fine unless the generator is really out to lunch. I'm not sure about things like furnaces.
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+1, Most solid state controls can tolerate +5 to -10% on voltage with 0 effect on performance. The power supplies can hack quite a bit of abuse based on the supplied power passing through a transformer, which usually absorbs the brunt of the fluctuation. I keep it old school by design in our house, no fancy fridge, mid efficiency furnace with solid state controls and a mechanically switched sump pump. No black boxes of mystery, simple repairs and maintenance.
 
nobbie48 said:
I ran my brother's sump pump on an old 1400 watt conventional Honda. Worked fine.

Many years ago I had a made in North America 12 / 120 inverter in my service van and it worked fine. I screwed it up and bought a bigger one made on the Pacific rim. It didn't have the guts of the NA one. Is there a quality issue with cheap imports?
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My 2000W CTC unit in my service truck will barely run my laptop off of the battery alone. Absolute crap. When it finally gives out I won't hesitate to replace it with a suitcase style 1-2000W gas unit.
 
CruisnGrrl said:
For furnace electronics how about one of those UPS battery back up systems or a decent 12v dc to 120v ac inverter to clean up the wave?
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Most affordable UPS's have a really ugly simulated sine wave (no idea on the effect of this on the furnace )and only enough battery to run the furnace for 30 minutes or less. Battery bank for an inverter would have to be pretty big if you want a few days of heat.
 
GreyGhost said:
Most affordable UPS's have a really ugly simulated sine wave (no idea on the effect of this on the furnace )and only enough battery to run the furnace for 30 minutes or less. Battery bank for an inverter would have to be pretty big if you want a few days of heat.
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I was thinking that it would get plugged into the generator. Surprised that UPSes have a horrible sine wave (I know it's actually square) when they are designed for electronics.
 
UPS to inverter would be the worst, as the power level dropped from the battery the inverter would produce less power than the blower motor required and it cooks it. Like a high watt tool on a long extension cord, too little power fries the motor. Our old cottage had a battery bank to inverter. It was LARGE and a huge investment.
An inverter to produce tru sine wave suitable for sensitive electronics isn't cheap.
I'm going to recommend cozy sweaters , some large socks and a toque for your Christmas list. Or a cuddle buddy, your call.
 
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