Couple of questions about track gearing | Page 3 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Couple of questions about track gearing

Corsara said:
I was afraid it would be so complicated. I guess it's way too early for me to strive for such perfection. Maybe/hopefully one day though!

Thanks for the reply.
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Actually gearing is a LOT more complicated then whats discussed here. Everything, all the way from the transmission to your tyres make a difference. Rider style and bike state of tune are also huge factors and of coarse track layout. Unless your at the pointy end of the field though you'll get by with just the basics and what feels good to you.
 
DownUnder said:
Actually gearing is a LOT more complicated then whats discussed here. Everything, all the way from the transmission to your tyres make a difference. Rider style and bike state of tune are also huge factors and of coarse track layout. Unless your at the pointy end of the field though you'll get by with just the basics and what feels good to you.
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Actually, I wrote that regarding the process of obtaining the optimal chain tension.
 
And I'm chiming in to tell you that gearing doesn't matter as much as corner speed (and tire quality). :)
 
Since I have the attention of the pros, I hope I can get a quick opinion about something else:

I want to change the radiator hoses during the winter, so I was wondering if it's a common practice to put silicone hoses instead of OEM. I found a kit (from China) that is only 50 bucks for 3 hoses, I wonder how big of a quality difference one can expect for something trivial as a hose. Should I get this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SUZUKI-GSXR1...=item3a77359008&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_1321wt_1598 ?
 
Brian P said:
Race bikes don't have side stands. "Completely unloaded" means at the top of the suspension travel. How you achieve that, is up to you. After you have done it once, you will know whether completely unloaded or rider-aboard is the limiting case (tightest chain) and you can then translate how much slack you need at the easy-to-measure condition (sitting on the rear stand naturally) in order to achieve enough slack in the limiting case.
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At the risk of sounding silly, if rider-aboard is the limiting case, would it not be more useful to measure for slack requirements with the suspension compressed?
 
Corsara said:
Since I have the attention of the pros, I hope I can get a quick opinion about something else:

I want to change the radiator hoses during the winter, so I was wondering if it's a common practice to put silicone hoses instead of OEM. I found a kit (from China) that is only 50 bucks for 3 hoses, I wonder how big of a quality difference one can expect for something trivial as a hose. Should I get this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SUZUKI-GSXR1...=item3a77359008&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_1321wt_1598 ?
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Not overly common to change unless damaged or you have money for bling. Get oem or a quality name hose, not china junk. P.S. I'm not a pro so mabie a real one has a different opinion.
 
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Aslan said:
At the risk of sounding silly, if rider-aboard is the limiting case, would it not be more useful to measure for slack requirements with the suspension compressed?
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It's pretty hard to replicate the amount of compression that happens when riding to adjust your chain. Again a little loose is better than a little tight.
 
Corsara said:
Since I have the attention of the pros, I hope I can get a quick opinion about something else:

I want to change the radiator hoses during the winter, so I was wondering if it's a common practice to put silicone hoses instead of OEM. I found a kit (from China) that is only 50 bucks for 3 hoses, I wonder how big of a quality difference one can expect for something trivial as a hose. Should I get this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/SUZUKI-GSXR1...=item3a77359008&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1#ht_1321wt_1598 ?
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Don't bother unless you're having cooling problems. Canada really isn't that warm.

Take that money and put it towards a rad guard.
 
caboose483 said:
Don't bother unless you're having cooling problems. Canada really isn't that warm.

Take that money and put it towards a rad guard.
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+1 I dont see much use with the weather here. A rad guard is a must imo.
 
Only reason for changing hoses is if the originals are hardened up and leaking at the connections ... give your bike another 10 years before concerning yourself with that. I have silicone hoses on my bike, but (A) not the made-in-China variety, and (B) because I have a non-stock radiator on my bike, and the stock hose routing would not work.
 
With all this talk about gearing and what ratios work best. I have not seen a gear ratio mentioned.
-1/+2 = what ??? , I would thing knowing the actual gearing ratio would be more beneficial.
My bike has a 17 front and a 42 rear what equals a 2.47 to 1 ratio ( the front sprocket has to turn 2.47 tire for the rear wheel to turn once)
a 16/42=2.65
16/44=2.75
16/50=3.125
For me knowing the actual ratio makes more sense then -1/+2, and give you more to relate to.

I come from the car world and i look at it like a gearing in a differential 4.11 vs 3.55 gears, give you something to relate to.
 
It's a lot easier to explain to people how many teeth to go up or down on a sprocket. And it's easier to think of it that way in general, frankly.
 
Thanks, I won't bother with hose from china replacements for now.

RonnieRev said:
With all this talk about gearing and what ratios work best. I have not seen a gear ratio mentioned.
-1/+2 = what ??? , I would thing knowing the actual gearing ratio would be more beneficial.
My bike has a 17 front and a 42 rear what equals a 2.47 to 1 ratio ( the front sprocket has to turn 2.47 tire for the rear wheel to turn once)
a 16/42=2.65
16/44=2.75
16/50=3.125
For me knowing the actual ratio makes more sense then -1/+2, and give you more to relate to.

I come from the car world and i look at it like a gearing in a differential 4.11 vs 3.55 gears, give you something to relate to.
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I don't know, for me it's more about not actual gear ratio number, but rather what effect is going to be achieved by changing as compared to how the bike feels with stock ratio. I've noticed that generally the more powerful the bike is, the taller the stock gear ratio is. So myself, with my stock 17/42 (or 2.47) on my gixxer, it's much easier to imagine how it will change and feel like by indicating just the change from stock with +- numbers on front and rear. Surely, anyone can divide the rear tooth count by the front tooth count to get the value, but looking at that number doesn't give me as much of a feeling what it would feel like, it's what you're used to I guess..
 
I have the EK 520 MVXZ with the zero stretch technology on my previous and current R1. Never had to adjust either of them. That said, I'm running the ERV3 on my track bike. The erv chain is lighter than the EK if that sort of thing matters to you.
 
Shaman said:
Chain maintenance? What's that? I spray 'em with WD40 about twice a year to keep the seals soft. They're roller chains. I do inspect them every event, though... I had a ERV2 (precursor to ERV3) rip in half on me in 2009.
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So, what do you suppose is lubricating the contact surfaces between the rollers and the sprocket teeth?
 
Faith? :)

What do you think WD-40 is.... brake cleaner?
 
Shaman said:
Faith? :)

What do you think WD-40 is.... brake cleaner?
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I'm very confused, I've always been told not to use WD-40 as it's too thin and penetrates the seals. Been told to clean (if cleaning) with kerosine, and then lube (for the latter, I usually use Dupont Teflon multi-purpose lube and i love it)
 
Mr.Azim said:
By miligrams, probably..... you would probably only notice by looking at the factory specs :p
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Actually its about half a lb difference between the erv3 and the EK chain (3.4 vs 3.7 lbs per 100 links), assuming 120 link. In no way am I saying anyone here would notice the difference, but if you are changing the chain anyways on a race bike, might as well go for the lightest one. It all adds up.
 
Can't go wrong with the ERV3, best chain for track. As for sprockets get one tooth smaller on the front and a collection of about 3 or 4 for the rear for starters and you're good to go. By the sounds of it a good base set up is all you need right now. When you reach the limits of gearing/suspension/bike then it's time to re-think things.

Rookies should concentrate more on learning to go fast comfortably; braking markers, looking deep through the corner to keep a consistent line and avoid target fixation, proper body positioning and just plain race ethics/race-craft.
 
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