Trying something new | Page 2 | GTAMotorcycle.com

Trying something new

Yes you might work the cost into your total deal, but they do need to charge you something for their mechanics to assemble it. I just didnt want any mechanics to test ride it before me, and it also saves another day or 2 of waiting for that to get done....The salesman already told me when the mechanics saw the 450F on the box when it came in, they were asking "Can I do the PDI on this one"....
There's nowhere to test ride a 450 at Kahuna man!.. There's no room there and it's an off road bike they can't go on the streets with that thing... I'm sure you had nothing to worry about someone riding your new bike..
 
There's nowhere to test ride a 450 at Kahuna man!.. There's no room there and it's an off road bike they can't go on the streets with that thing... I'm sure you had nothing to worry about someone riding your new bike..

Thats exactly what I said, when he said it "where would they ride it theres no room here" And Rod said they dont care, when an MX bike or ATV comes in they rip them up and down the street.

And either way it feels nicer to bring it home completely fresh with some assembly required
 
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The bike I picked up from Kahuna a couple weeks ago had 0 km on the odo......they didn't have the time or weather to ride it.
 
Ah thanks, that makes sense... Since it already has a lower chain guide I was wondering what you guys meant........

I just ordered my SM rims this afternoon, so can anyone suggest gearing and tires? Stock gearing is 13/50

Dunlop SM tires are the best.

for your purposes, the stock gearing will be fine.
 
Dunlop SM tires are the best.

for your purposes, the stock gearing will be fine.

I rode it today and it feels like I can go down a lot! on the gearing...It wheelies in 1st,2nd, and 3rd with just little throttle blips, and Im not even beating on it yet. Im more interested in sliding around then wheelies, so from what Ive read most guys go up one in the front and down a few in the rear...Give me an idea what you run compared to stock on yours?
 
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This is the chain guide I posted. Its from a guy in the UK who machines them. I think it was $40 or $50 shipped. you have to drill and tap 2 holes in the swing arm to mount it. It might be worth signing up for the supermotojunkie forum. tons of good info on there...
 
CIMG0525.jpg

This is the chain guide I posted. Its from a guy in the UK who machines them. I think it was $40 or $50 shipped. you have to drill and tap 2 holes in the swing arm to mount it. It might be worth signing up for the supermotojunkie forum. tons of good info on there...

Using that same idea, how about the chain guard that is under the back end of the swing arm? Could you rig up something to work with one of those?
 
CIMG0525.jpg

This is the chain guide I posted. Its from a guy in the UK who machines them. I think it was $40 or $50 shipped. you have to drill and tap 2 holes in the swing arm to mount it. It might be worth signing up for the supermotojunkie forum. tons of good info on there...

Thanks thats the best one Ive seen so far, so I signed up and sent him a PM...Hopefully I can get one...
 
Using that same idea, how about the chain guard that is under the back end of the swing arm? Could you rig up something to work with one of those?

Seen alot of do it yourself posts about that, so yes its possible alot of people use them...
 
I rode it today and it feels like I can go down a lot! on the gearing...It wheelies in 1st,2nd, and 3rd with just little throttle blips, and Im not even beating on it yet. Im more interested in sliding around then wheelies, so from what Ive read most guys go up one in the front and down a few in the rear...Give me an idea what you run compared to stock on yours?

It will wheelie in just about any gear unless you gear it to the moon, its the nature of the beast.

I always ran as close to stock gearing as I could, I would make a gear change only if a section of the track required taller gearing(ie, a long straight).

You actually WANT to use the upper range of the gearbox, if at all possible(3rd, 4th and 5th)

The trick to sliding and backing it in properly is to use the engine braking.

There is a MUCH wider spread between the upper gear ratios than there is between the lower gears.

so say riding in your stunt lot in 4th, as you initiate the braking and want to slide, you backshift to 2nd, and dump the clutch(what slipper clutch did you get??)

it'll be a more controllable slide than if you had gone from 3rd to 1st with taller gearing,, 1st gear is a pain in the ***.

let me know when you're going riding, I'll come out and ride with you.

i've had novice level street riding students sliding after spending a day with them.

I'm pretty sure you'll be better than me if I spend about an hour with you.
 
It will wheelie in just about any gear unless you gear it to the moon, its the nature of the beast.

I always ran as close to stock gearing as I could, I would make a gear change only if a section of the track required taller gearing(ie, a long straight).

You actually WANT to use the upper range of the gearbox, if at all possible(3rd, 4th and 5th)

The trick to sliding and backing it in properly is to use the engine braking.

There is a MUCH wider spread between the upper gear ratios than there is between the lower gears.

so say riding in your stunt lot in 4th, as you initiate the braking and want to slide, you backshift to 2nd, and dump the clutch(what slipper clutch did you get??)

it'll be a more controllable slide than if you had gone from 3rd to 1st with taller gearing,, 1st gear is a pain in the ***.

let me know when you're going riding, I'll come out and ride with you.

i've had novice level street riding students sliding after spending a day with them.

I'm pretty sure you'll be better than me if I spend about an hour with you.

Thanks I have not bought a slipper yet, I am focusing on rims, tires, and brakes first....I ordered Machensinis and in about 2 weeks I will be ordering Brembo billet radial caliper kit with a billet 16x16 master....After I get all that, I want to get the suspension setup, an Akrapovic EVO, and all the other little bits like axle sliders, handguards, slipper, etc

Do you have any suggestions for a slipper clutch brand, I see there is a lot of them on the market these days...

As for sliding I found when I rode a friends yamaha 250 SM, it was pretty easy compared to sport bikes...The MX/SM bike seemed much less likely to pitch you off, much more confidence inspiring in the sliding department in comparison...However this thing is a beast! Its the throttle that scares me....Power is amazing, it feels like its got more balls stock, then my +16 geared stunt bike
 
Thanks I have not bought a slipper yet, I am focusing on rims, tires, and brakes first....I ordered Machensinis and in about 2 weeks I will be ordering Brembo billet radial caliper kit with a billet 16x16 master....After I get all that, I want to get the suspension setup, an Akrapovic EVO, and all the other little bits like axle sliders, handguards, slipper, etc

Do you have any suggestions for a slipper clutch brand, I see there is a lot of them on the market these days...

As for sliding I found when I rode a friends yamaha 250 SM, it was pretty easy compared to sport bikes...The MX/SM bike seemed much less likely to pitch you off, much more confidence inspiring in the sliding department in comparison...However this thing is a beast! Its the throttle that scares me....Power is amazing, it feels like its got more balls stock, then my +16 geared stunt bike


That feeling comes from the difference in suspension

a 400lb sportbike has a LOT of energy stored in the springs, and a lot less travel to allow the rebound damping circuit of the fork and shock to deal with that energy.

when you pitch a bike sideway, the suspension compresses, it'll stay compressed until you start to change direction(finish the slide to complete the turn)

This is where a highside comes from on corner entry, without experience, a rider will tend to try to keep the bike upright until the slide is complete, THEN lean the bike.

Doing this causes the rebound energy to be released upwards and VOILA, the eject button is pressed, maverick gets we and goose eats the canopy sandwich!

if the bike is leaned BEFORE the slide is completed, allowing the energy to be directed at an angle the ride can compensate with, things are not as likely to put you in a bad way.

The SM bikes are lighter, and have more than double the suspension travel, so they have less potential energy to deal with at compression of the suspension, and they have much more time to slow the return of the spring down.

As a default, slow the rear rebound damping down as much as you can(1 click out from full slow) this will really prevent you from highsiding, but MAY lead to the shock packing slightly.

You might want to consider an alternate approach to the build.

Do the slipper clutch and suspension mods FIRST,, before the brakes.

For brakes, you can easily get away with a 320mm rotor, offset bracket and the OEM caliper/master with a steel line.

I know a ton of guys that raced with this kind of setup at the pro level with excellent results.

Yoyodyne is the best bet for the slipper clutch(and you can get them at bluestreak)

It feels faster than your stunt bike, because it is.

My 450 would outrun just about anything corner to corner until it ran out of gearbox, just wait until you get into the ECU and start tuning the power, the new electronic bikes are SOOO much better than the carb motors.
 
That feeling comes from the difference in suspension

a 400lb sportbike has a LOT of energy stored in the springs, and a lot less travel to allow the rebound damping circuit of the fork and shock to deal with that energy.

when you pitch a bike sideway, the suspension compresses, it'll stay compressed until you start to change direction(finish the slide to complete the turn)

This is where a highside comes from on corner entry, without experience, a rider will tend to try to keep the bike upright until the slide is complete, THEN lean the bike.

Doing this causes the rebound energy to be released upwards and VOILA, the eject button is pressed, maverick gets we and goose eats the canopy sandwich!

if the bike is leaned BEFORE the slide is completed, allowing the energy to be directed at an angle the ride can compensate with, things are not as likely to put you in a bad way.

The SM bikes are lighter, and have more than double the suspension travel, so they have less potential energy to deal with at compression of the suspension, and they have much more time to slow the return of the spring down.

As a default, slow the rear rebound damping down as much as you can(1 click out from full slow) this will really prevent you from highsiding, but MAY lead to the shock packing slightly.

You might want to consider an alternate approach to the build.

Do the slipper clutch and suspension mods FIRST,, before the brakes.

For brakes, you can easily get away with a 320mm rotor, offset bracket and the OEM caliper/master with a steel line.

I know a ton of guys that raced with this kind of setup at the pro level with excellent results.

Yoyodyne is the best bet for the slipper clutch(and you can get them at bluestreak)

It feels faster than your stunt bike, because it is.

My 450 would outrun just about anything corner to corner until it ran out of gearbox, just wait until you get into the ECU and start tuning the power, the new electronic bikes are SOOO much better than the carb motors.

Thanks I'll get a price on the slipper and I can buy it any time, because I have only bought the wheels and some other little parts so far. And I dont really plan or setting it up from SM until I have all the parts in...And I know the Brembo brakes are more of a want then a need...I have 4 billet Brembo calipers on my 09 ZX6R and I know I dont need them, and I barely even ride that bike but they still put a smile on my face...I should have everything I want by summer time

Thanks for the info
 
The MX/SM bike seemed much less likely to pitch you off, much more confidence inspiring in the sliding department in comparison..

reciprocity is the only one ive seen highside a supermoto, but it was after a quick rain on a slick track so ill cut him some slack
 
Seen alot of do it yourself posts about that, so yes its possible alot of people use them...

I pmed the guy on smjunkie and he is unsure if it'll work for a CRF. Let me know if it works out for you, as he said that you just ordered one to try it out.
 
I pmed the guy on smjunkie and he is unsure if it'll work for a CRF. Let me know if it works out for you, as he said that you just ordered one to try it out.

Looks like I can make it work, all you have to do is drill and tap 2 holes in the top of the swingarm...I'll let you know how it fits

The Graves block looked even harder to install on my KX, because where it should mount on my bike there is a big weld on the swingarm. So it would be hard to make it sit straight on top of the weld, something else would have to be made or added to make that one fit also
 
I pmed the guy on smjunkie and he is unsure if it'll work for a CRF. Let me know if it works out for you, as he said that you just ordered one to try it out.

Well I got it today, looks nice, little pricey ($70 after conversion and shipping) but worth it IMO...

Looks like Im going to have to shorten my stock chain guide a little to make it fit better, but other then that drill and tap 2 holes and its on
IMG_0525.jpg
 
Well I got it today, looks nice, little pricey ($70 after conversion and shipping) but worth it IMO...

Looks like Im going to have to shorten my stock chain guide a little to make it fit better, but other then that drill and tap 2 holes and its on
IMG_0525.jpg


I'm surprised you didn't just make one yourself

Nice Bike
If you master this like you did with Stunting, I can't wait to see the Vids
 

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