Do you have a snake at home? | GTAMotorcycle.com

Do you have a snake at home?

A.K.

A.K.

Well-known member
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After a few years of convincing finally we bought a snake that belongs to my son and me.

She is a ball python, 5 months old, about 75 cm long and 250g. I never had a reptile at home, I am in the process of learning about them. I'd really appreciate comments from experienced owners on a few topics.

1. How do they tolerate above average handling? Literature says 15 minutes per week is acceptable. She has been handled more than that. We have her since end of December and now she seems to be settled, we can see her coming out of her hide much more often than during week one. And she seems to be more curious than before.

2. What level of "intimacy" can I expect from her after some time? Is she going to climb on my arm if I reach in? Is she going to sit on my lap for 20 minutes observing the surrounding? I know she won't wag her tail and won't fetch a ball but I can live with that. We picked a ball python, because corn snakes seemed way more hyper.

3. Do I have to find a vet for her up front? Do they require regular check-ups?

4. The first feeding was unsuccessful. We took her out of the cage and placed her into a Rubbermaid container but she was not interested in the mouse. For the second time she was fed in the cage with no problem. Any thoughts on in cage or out of cage feeding?

Anything else I need to be careful with or watch out for?

Thank you for your help in advance!
 
I've got a snake in my pants
 
Nothing like playing fetch with a snake..hours of fun!! :)
 
I had a dog that thought they were self propelled sticks.
 
invictus43 said:
Nothing like playing fetch with a snake..hours of fun!! :)
Click to expand...

Have they evolved? The last time I checked they have a very primitive brain
 
images
...looks like a fun pet....:confused:
 
So the OP asked a serious question and we got 6 stupid answers and one decent one... I love this site.

I've owned a Corn snake since Oct of 2002. I don't know if there's any difference with a Corn snake and Ball Python so YMMV

Another good website that I learned from was http://www.ssnakess.com/

1) The wanting to handle the snake will wear off after a while. It's good to interact with the snake so when people come over the snake is not afraid of them. I'd keep it to once a day. You don't want to stress her too much. I usually don't handle my snake right before shedding or right after. You will know when she is ready to shed from the milky white eyes. Also wash your hands before and after handling the snake. Also if you notice the snake all of a sudden try to get away from you (more then usual) it's probably ready to **** (don't ask how I know this)

2) I've brought my snake outside to let him play in the grass but you have to be VERY careful, you don't want her to escape or a crow fly by and grab her (don't ask how I know). Also you don't want her to pick up mites.

3) I've never brought my snake to the vet.

4) Don't worry if the snake doesn't eat. Mine has gone 4 months without eating once. I started to get worried but it turned out he was just horny. You'll notice your snake not eat as much in the spring. I usually buy 1 live small rat and 3 frozen one. I knock the live one and put it in the tank if he doesn't eat it then I throw it in the freezer with the others. If he doesn't eat a thawed rat then I flush it down the toilet. Don't re-freeze a thawed rat. I used to feed mine in a separate container but I noticed he eats more regularly in his tank. I'm thinking because he feels more comfortable. I get my rats from PJs in the PTC. A small rat is about $3.50. Their rotten shipments are Wednesdays. If you have any question ask someone that works in the reptile department, they know their ****.

5) I know for Corn snakes, cedar shavings will kill the snake. I use aspen.





A.K. said:
After a few years of convincing finally we bought a snake that belongs to my son and me.

She is a ball python, 5 months old, about 75 cm long and 250g. I never had a reptile at home, I am in the process of learning about them. I'd really appreciate comments from experienced owners on a few topics.

1. How do they tolerate above average handling? Literature says 15 minutes per week is acceptable. She has been handled more than that. We have her since end of December and now she seems to be settled, we can see her coming out of her hide much more often than during week one. And she seems to be more curious than before.

2. What level of "intimacy" can I expect from her after some time? Is she going to climb on my arm if I reach in? Is she going to sit on my lap for 20 minutes observing the surrounding? I know she won't wag her tail and won't fetch a ball but I can live with that. We picked a ball python, because corn snakes seemed way more hyper.

3. Do I have to find a vet for her up front? Do they require regular check-ups?

4. The first feeding was unsuccessful. We took her out of the cage and placed her into a Rubbermaid container but she was not interested in the mouse. For the second time she was fed in the cage with no problem. Any thoughts on in cage or out of cage feeding?

Anything else I need to be careful with or watch out for?

Thank you for your help in advance!
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
invictus43 said:
Your sarcasm detector is busted today!! :)
Click to expand...
It did detect it, but I just had to comment. My Big Mouth silencer is broken

Splash said:
So the OP asked a serious question and we got 6 stupid answers and one decent one... I love this site.

I've owned a Corn snake since Oct of 2002. I don't know if there's any difference with a Corn snake and Ball Python so YMMV

Another good website that I learned from was http://www.ssnakess.com/

1) The wanting to handle the snake will wear off after a while. It's good to interact with the snake so when people come over the snake is not afraid of them. I'd keep it to once a day. You don't want to stress her too much. I usually don't handle my snake right before shedding or right after. You will know when she is ready to shed from the milky white eyes. Also wash your hands before and after handling the snake. Also if you notice the snake all of a sudden try to get away from you (more then usual) it's probably ready to **** (don't ask how I know this)

2) I've brought my snake outside to let him play in the grass but you have to be VERY careful, you don't want her to escape or a crow fly by and grab her (don't ask how I know). Also you don't want her to pick up mites.

3) I've never brought my snake to the vet.

4) Don't worry if the snake doesn't eat. Mine has gone 4 months without eating once. I started to get worried but it turned out he was just horny. You'll notice your snake not eat as much in the spring. I usually buy 1 live small rat and 3 frozen one. I knock the live one and put it in the tank if he doesn't eat it then I throw it in the freezer with the others. If he doesn't eat a thawed rat then I flush it down the toilet. Don't re-freeze a thawed rat. I used to feed mine in a separate container but I noticed he eats more regularly in his tank. I'm thinking because he feels more comfortable. I get my rats from PJs in the PTC. A small rat is about $3.50. Their rotten shipments are Wednesdays. If you have any question ask someone that works in the reptile department, they know their ****.

5) I know for Corn snakes, cedar shavings will kill the snake. I use aspen.


Click to expand...

You have pretty hands
 
Splash said:
So the OP asked a serious question and we got 6 stupid answers and one decent one... I love this site.

I've owned a Corn snake since Oct of 2002. I don't know if there's any difference with a Corn snake and Ball Python so YMMV

Another good website that I learned from was http://www.ssnakess.com/

1) The wanting to handle the snake will wear off after a while. It's good to interact with the snake so when people come over the snake is not afraid of them. I'd keep it to once a day. You don't want to stress her too much. I usually don't handle my snake right before shedding or right after. You will know when she is ready to shed from the milky white eyes. Also wash your hands before and after handling the snake. Also if you notice the snake all of a sudden try to get away from you (more then usual) it's probably ready to **** (don't ask how I know this)

2) I've brought my snake outside to let him play in the grass but you have to be VERY careful, you don't want her to escape or a crow fly by and grab her (don't ask how I know). Also you don't want her to pick up mites.

3) I've never brought my snake to the vet.

4) Don't worry if the snake doesn't eat. Mine has gone 4 months without eating once. I started to get worried but it turned out he was just horny. You'll notice your snake not eat as much in the spring. I usually buy 1 live small rat and 3 frozen one. I knock the live one and put it in the tank if he doesn't eat it then I throw it in the freezer with the others. If he doesn't eat a thawed rat then I flush it down the toilet. Don't re-freeze a thawed rat. I used to feed mine in a separate container but I noticed he eats more regularly in his tank. I'm thinking because he feels more comfortable. I get my rats from PJs in the PTC. A small rat is about $3.50. Their rotten shipments are Wednesdays. If you have any question ask someone that works in the reptile department, they know their ****.

5) I know for Corn snakes, cedar shavings will kill the snake. I use aspen.


Click to expand...

Thank you for the answers and the link.

Mine soiled on me for the very first handling, never after. That must have been some sort of an initiation or something. :) Or I just scared the $#it out of her.

I'll check out PJs, the mice in the freezer are from Petsmart, but they don't seem to be reptile oriented.

Thanks again!
 
A.K. said:
Thank you for the answers and the link.

Mine soiled on me for the very first handling, never after. That must have been some sort of an initiation or something. :) Or I just scared the $#it out of her.

I'll check out PJs, the mice in the freezer are from Petsmart, but they don't seem to be reptile oriented.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

have more time to write now

snakes will soil when frightened. if they are handled too much they will refuse to eat. switch to rats sooner than later royal pythons are known to be finicky eaters. they are also known to be lumps. I'm not sure if portcredit pet center is still open to the public but they were the best when i was involved in reptiles as a hobby. for substrate you want to avoid aspen (too dry) and cedar (toxic), i recommend cypress mulch. pick up a can of anti-mite spray (I forget the name of it but the one I have is white).

As for feeding in the cage or feeding out of the cage the debate is like which is better - cruiser/sport bike. One bonus of putting the snake into another enclosure is you do not have to have substrate in there and there can not have any feeding accidents that way.

For feeding I recommend using heavy leather gloves to handle your snake. Your hands are the size of a large rat and when wearing a long shirt or a sweater it could trigger a feeding response. This will hurt you and possibly the snake (they may leave teeth embedded in your skin) with a larger snake a trip to the hospital would be required. When handling my burmese python I use welding gloves.

Hit up one of the shows and you can get feeders direct.
 
I had a ball python for many years. Something about reptiles is that they actually do have personalities and you can learn they're behaviors and poses and understand each other after a whole. But one thing you must keep in mind is that they are purely instinctual animals. You should expect to be bitten. You also have to remember if it does bite its usually your fault, not the snake. What I mean is, don't handle food before handling it. Don't handle it after its eaten a large meal for at least 3-5 days.

My ball python was a very curious snake, she always liked to explore and find things to grab with her tail. She used to find her way into my sleeve and it was hard to get her out lol

Feel free to ask questions if you like, did you get the snake from reptilia? I used to work there in college. Payed for my first bike! They are good people to know for advice too.

I always just fed my snakes in their aquarium. But that's just me. I find once they are outside all they want to do is explore and not interested in eating
 
CruisnGrrl said:
have more time to write now

snakes will soil when frightened. if they are handled too much they will refuse to eat. switch to rats sooner than later royal pythons are known to be finicky eaters. they are also known to be lumps. I'm not sure if portcredit pet center is still open to the public but they were the best when i was involved in reptiles as a hobby. for substrate you want to avoid aspen (too dry) and cedar (toxic), i recommend cypress mulch. pick up a can of anti-mite spray (I forget the name of it but the one I have is white).

As for feeding in the cage or feeding out of the cage the debate is like which is better - cruiser/sport bike. One bonus of putting the snake into another enclosure is you do not have to have substrate in there and there can not have any feeding accidents that way.

For feeding I recommend using heavy leather gloves to handle your snake. Your hands are the size of a large rat and when wearing a long shirt or a sweater it could trigger a feeding response. This will hurt you and possibly the snake (they may leave teeth embedded in your skin) with a larger snake a trip to the hospital would be required. When handling my burmese python I use welding gloves.

Hit up one of the shows and you can get feeders direct.
Click to expand...

Thank you!

I'll check out Port Credit.

What kind of accidents can happen during feeding? I hate long sleeve shirts, I usually wear T-shirts.
 
RicoChet said:
I had a ball python for many years. Something about reptiles is that they actually do have personalities and you can learn they're behaviors and poses and understand each other after a whole. But one thing you must keep in mind is that they are purely instinctual animals. You should expect to be bitten. You also have to remember if it does bite its usually your fault, not the snake. What I mean is, don't handle food before handling it. Don't handle it after its eaten a large meal for at least 3-5 days.

My ball python was a very curious snake, she always liked to explore and find things to grab with her tail. She used to find her way into my sleeve and it was hard to get her out lol

Feel free to ask questions if you like, did you get the snake from reptilia? I used to work there in college. Payed for my first bike! They are good people to know for advice too.

I always just fed my snakes in their aquarium. But that's just me. I find once they are outside all they want to do is explore and not interested in eating
Click to expand...

I did get my python from Reptilia. (I should say our python.) They seem to be very professional and helpful.

We fed Augusta today, and for the second time in a row she yanked the mouse out of my tweezers right away, so I'm not worried anymore about not eating. I fed her in her tank. She is getting used to her new environment and she wants to get out more and more. Or at least this is how I interpret her frequent escape attempts.

The mouse she ate was fairly skinny and still, it took her quite a while to swallow it. I was told to get a feed the size of her thickest part. This mouse was about 3/5 of it and she fought with it for a few minutes to completely swallow. How in Earth could she had had swallowed a larger prey? Do they refuse the feed if they can't swallow it or they still give it a try? I don't want to overfeed her but I don't want her to be hungry all the times either.

So much to learn...
 
Thank you for all your replies.

Some of the "wise" comments cracked me up! :)
 
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