Yes provided that you remove the tailgate. Those mesh tailgates may look like they let the air through ... but the drag will feel like a parachute. Take the tailgate off, use a normal ramp, it will be OK.
What you need to do, is have a hitch installed on the car and a wiring module installed in the car. First things first, the hitch.
http://www.hiddenhitch.com/ - If you go through the vehicle model selection process, you will find that a Class 1 hitch is available for your car. A Class 1 hitch has 2000 lb towing capacity and 200 lb tongue weight capacity. That doesn't mean your car is officially rated to tow that much - that's in your owner's manual - although it's not uncommon for cars sold in North America to simply say "not recommended". For now, assume that it is OK. My experience has been that if you get pulled over for inspection, all they'll look at is the capacity of the hitch anyway.
Since you are in Mississauga, good place to buy a hitch and have it installed is Hitch City, which is on Dixie just south of 401 on the west side. It will cost a couple hundred bucks.
The second thing is the wiring adapter for the vehicle. Your car has separate turn and brake lamp bulbs. Trailers use combined turn/brake lamps. There is a little module for converting the car's signals to those necessary for the trailer wiring. Hitch City can do this for you, also, although it's not that bad to do it yourself - I did mine myself because I wanted soldered and shrink-wrapped connectors, not spliced-in T's.
With the car set up, get the trailer and put it together and you are all set.
Few random thoughts.
When you buy a trailer, get 12" wheels at a minimum. DON'T get 8" wheels. When the car is going 100 km/h, those little wheels think they're going 200 km/h and the tires blow or the bearings wear out in no time.
If you have 12" trailer wheels, there are two different widths and several different load ranges. The 4.80x12 is probably what that trailer comes with. There are also 5.30x12 in at least two different load ranges (it's printed on the sidewall). Make sure you have enough load rating for your load. Make sure the tire pressure is right! Trailer tires use very high pressures. Check trailer tire pressures before every trip.
You need to load the trailer so that approx 10% of the total trailer weight is on the tongue. Not enough tongue weight will make the trailer sway and be unstable. Too much will overload your hitch.
You need to hook up safety chains crossed under the tongue. The hitch has hooks for attaching these and the trailer will probably come with chains for doing this. I also pin the latch for the tow ball so that it doesn't accidentally come undone.
Trailers less than 3000 lbs ordinarily don't have trailer brakes. Anything that will go on a Class 1 hitch won't have trailer brakes. BUT, read the owner's manual for your car (you may have to look up the European owner's manual to find the real deal). The European version of my car (Jetta TDI) is rated 600 kg towing capacity without trailer brakes and 1200 kg with trailer brakes. 600 kg = 1320 lbs, this is within the Class 1 limit ... European trailers ALL have trailer brakes as far as I can tell.
Beyond that it's just a matter of driving properly. Make allowance for slower acceleration, turning more gently, and particularly, longer stopping distances. With my car, the trailer increases fuel consumption (and stress on the engine/transmission) by 50%. All this means ... slow down!
And then there's the next thing you'll eventually experience ... Backing up with a trailer!
