Advice for drilling/safety wiring

[JohnnyP636]

Hey guys so Im just about finished drilling my whole bike with one drill bit..Ive read alot of people say I should buy alot of bits, because Im going to break a few...And well thats why Im here giving a little advice...I bought high quality industrial grade drill bits, and cutting fluid...These bits had no problem drilling right through some my Titanium fasteners....

I bought 6 bits @ $2 each and like I said Im still using the first one...

Here is the trick, buy your bits from KBC Tools or any other machine shop supply place...KBC has a $25 minimum purchase policy, so I bought some hand cleaner to put me over that min...And there is always something to buy in that store...

Also buy short drill bits, the shorter the cutting length is the less defection you will have and the less chance of flexing and shattering your bit...

I dont know what brand they are, but I simply told the guy behind the counter to get me "some short length high quality 1/16th drill bits" because KBC always has like 3 different grade of every cutting tool or bit... They were about $2 each and Im pretty sure are bronze oxide coated....And I also bought a little bottle of Tap MAGIC cutting fluid....

[reciprocity]

did you remember to mark the fasteners when they were tightened so you drill in the proper location?

Proper drilling location helps as it puts the hole in a location.

If you are wiring 2 bolts together, the hole on the top bolt should be on the right side and the bottom bolt should have the hole on the left side.

This will have the bolts mechanically tighten as the safety wire is spun on.

[JohnnyP636]

did you remember to mark the fasteners when they were tightened so you drill in the proper location?

Proper drilling location helps as it puts the hole in a location.

If you are wiring 2 bolts together, the hole on the top bolt should be on the right side and the bottom bolt should have the hole on the left side.

This will have the bolts mechanically tighten as the safety wire is spun on.

Yeah I made sure I did that, but these bits worked so well I did most of them on the bike....Didnt even have to remove them...

Im going to ask someone to look it over before I try to race thou, just to make sure I did them all correctly...And didnt miss anything....

Which brings me to my next question, does my bike have to be 100% prepped for the SOAR school on the Fri? Or only for the race, like if I forgot something do I still have time to get it done for the races on SAT/SUN?

[reciprocity]

They Seem to be pretty forgiving at SOAR.

you should be fine.

If you run into problems with something, give me a call, I'm just down the road and we can get it sorted Friday night.

[eastcoast_gsx]

If you run into problems with something, give me a call, I'm just down the road and we can get it sorted Friday night.

Johnny... avoid any dark alleys with Donovan... especially if there is a full moon.

[SweetOnion]

Yeah I made sure I did that, but these bits worked so well I did most of them on the bike....Didnt even have to remove them...

heh that is awesome! Thanks for the post, I'll make sure to pick some up before the SV gets pierced.

[Ferg]

Yeah I made sure I did that, but these bits worked so well I did most of them on the bike....Didnt even have to remove them...

Im going to ask someone to look it over before I try to race thou, just to make sure I did them all correctly...And didnt miss anything....

Which brings me to my next question, does my bike have to be 100% prepped for the SOAR school on the Fri? Or only for the race, like if I forgot something do I still have time to get it done for the races on SAT/SUN?

The SOAR school tech is the same as the basic track day tech. If you don't have the oil and calipers wired then they will just suggest that you silicone them.

They more licences that they get out there the better for the sport, so they are very good about their scholl tech, for the qualifying on Saturday you will ahve to re tech will the full race tech.

By the sounds of it you will not have any trouble with either, sounds liek you ahve been very thorough

[JohnnyP636]

did you remember to mark the fasteners when they were tightened so you drill in the proper location?

Proper drilling location helps as it puts the hole in a location.

If you are wiring 2 bolts together, the hole on the top bolt should be on the right side and the bottom bolt should have the hole on the left side.

This will have the bolts mechanically tighten as the safety wire is spun on.

Here are some examples

This is how I did all my banjos. dont mind the caliper not being wired, Im still waiting on my spring clips for those



And the front axle pinch bolts

[DaveP]

Johnny i'm not a big fan of the way you wired up the banjo, in a crash if the brake line get caught up on the asphalt or grass it will cause the banjo to come loose a little and fluid will leak... I only know this cause it's the way I had my master banjo done and sure enough when I crashed it leaked and the whole system needed a re-bleed. Another option is caliper bolt -> banjo -> to other caliper bolt, but it's one more bolt to deal with every time your doing tire swaps.

[JohnnyP636]

Johnny i'm not a big fan of the way you wired up the banjo, in a crash if the brake line get caught up on the asphalt or grass it will cause the banjo to come loose a little and fluid will leak... I only know this cause it's the way I had my master banjo done and sure enough when I crashed it leaked and the whole system needed a re-bleed. Another option is caliper bolt -> banjo -> to other caliper bolt, but it's one more bolt to deal with every time your doing tire swaps.

Honestly if I crash, the banjo bolt loosening would be the last thing on my mind...Since my banjos are aluminum, Id be more worried about them snapping before the bolt loosening...

IMO safety wiring has more to do with making sure you tightened things while working on your bike, and dont loosen up under vibration. Rather then them loosening up in a crash....If my calipers fall off its gonna be because I didnt tighten them enough, not because of the crash...Same goes for oil filler, oil drain, etc etc...those arent gonna fall off because I crash...Example the guy that crashed his 600RR said someone forgot to put a nut on a bolt for his suspension linkage! And it fell out....

If the way I did them is acceptable then Im going to leave them....If I wad it up, a little brake bleeding is not gonna bother me... Im more concerned about ruining the track for other people spilling my oil....So I have all the aftermarket engine covers you can buy for my bike...If I do crash I will go over my bike very well, and I wont even think about going on the track again untill its in proper condition. If its not already obvious I am really anal about my bike, its condition and how I work on it....

[DaveP]

If its not already obvious I am really anal about my bike

Got that impression off you months ago when you described the cleaning process you put parts though before sending them off to the power coater...

I just figure if your gonna safety wire it then why not make it so it's less likely to leak, it's one less thing to have to do when your already in a rush making minor repairs after a small crash at the end of Sunday practice and your the first race up... It's amazing how much time this little stuff can take, no matter how quick you think you are.

By the way how are the fancy $140 safety wire pliers working out?

[JohnnyP636]

Got that impression off you months ago when you described the cleaning process you put parts though before sending them off to the power coater...

I just figure if your gonna safety wire it then why not make it so it's less likely to leak, it's one less thing to have to do when your already in a rush making minor repairs after a small crash at the end of Sunday practice and your the first race up... It's amazing how much time this little stuff can take, no matter how quick you think you are.

By the way how are the fancy $140 safety wire pliers working out?

Any pics of your method? I just dont want to do it really because I plan to use spring clips for the calipers, so I dont have to re-wire every times I change tires or gearing...

Those $140 twisters are worth every penny, they twist really nice and even, the wire never slips out like they would with the Princess auto ones...They lock onto the wire easily with one hand, the cutters actually cut the wire clean with little force, and the reversible comes in handy for removing old wire...Cause you can untwist it...

Im actually having fun with them, and wired some things that dont even need to be wired..LOL

And the wire I bought is also really nice, Ive been using the .020 mostly

[DaveP]

Sorry Johnny this is the best pic i've got on hand, my all three of my bolts have a single hole strait though them. It works but it's a ***** for every tire change...

[JohnnyP636]

Sorry Johnny this is the best pic i've got on hand, my all three of my bolts have a single hole strait though them. It works but it's a ***** for every tire change...

Your missing a fender bolt! shame on you

[DaveP]

Your missing a fender bolt! shame on you

LOL Damn gixxers and there stock reflector bolt, that's since been corrected as this is an old pic. My safely wire would never look as neat and tidy now... i've discovered just how useless it is.

[Fiery254]

I don't have the time to do a full drill and wire job, but am facing 3 track days in Feb. What are the bare necessities I should drill and wire? I'm not racing just lapping.

[chinto]

I don't have the time to do a full drill and wire job, but am facing 3 track days in Feb. What are the bare necessities I should drill and wire? I'm not racing just lapping.

you'd need to check with the organizer to see if any wiring is required.

[caboose483]

^^ i doubt any safety wire is required.

but if you want to cover some important ones, do the oil filler cap, oil drain plug and the oil filter with a hose clamp.

[Fiery254]

^^ i doubt any safety wire is required.

but if you want to cover some important ones, do the oil filler cap, oil drain plug and the oil filter with a hose clamp.

Nope. No safety wire needed, more for my own protection really. With that in mind I should get to do the whole bike but i'll do what you suggest as the essentials and wheel axle nuts and caliper nuts if I find the extra time before Jennings. Thanks.

[SunnY S]

Hey guys so Im just about finished drilling my whole bike with one drill bit..Ive read alot of people say I should buy alot of bits, because Im going to break a few...And well thats why Im here giving a little advice...I bought high quality industrial grade drill bits, and cutting fluid...These bits had no problem drilling right through some my Titanium fasteners....

I bought 6 bits @ $2 each and like I said Im still using the first one...


...

Likely they were drill bits made of Cobalt steel. A good step up from the garbage HSS (high speed steel) bits available at Crappy Tire, HD, and the usual places.