03 gsxr-r 600 major issue *please help*

[03Alstare600]

Long story short, I had a buddy instal an hid kit on my bike. When the instal was complete I started the bike and it was having little jolts of revs when ideling, left his place and 2 mins down the road the hid went out. I shut off the bike thinking if I started it again it would maybe would come back on. Bike would not fire. CHecked all the fuses and the headlight fuse was blown so we switched the fuse and unplugged the hid kit and it started and ran back to his house but spitting and sputtering and the fi light came on. SO yesterday we changed the plugs took it out and its is still spitting and sputtering. Checked the code and it said 4th coil. Changed all the coils with the coils from a buddies bike... bike is still doing the same. Checked the battery and it is mint its holding charge and charging good. All I can think of is the ECU. Does anyone have any idea to help me out with this problem? Thanks

[03Alstare600]

forgot to add the hid kit has all been uninstalled and it is all stock headlights now. Also when he installed them he added wire between the balast and the bulbs so that the balasts would fit in my trunk. He used speaker wire to extend them and from what I have heard is that you can not extend these wires and especially with speaker wire so this may have been the problem as to why this has all happened...also the battery was connected the whole time of the instal.

[Kibosh3]

hmmm, fried ecu?

[HERBXX]

OK, if the HID kit has a separate starter and ballast you can extend the wires between the ballast and starter. If not there will be issues.

The starting voltage spike for an hid is several thousand volts to start the arc. There is no way common speaker wire could contain that. I would look for places that the wire arced to the frame or other wires. If your lucky it arced to something and just burned off another wire . If you unlucky it arced to another wire and fed voltage back into the ecu .

See if you can trace the wires from the bad coil and see if they crossed the speaker wire any place, and look for bad spots in the wired to the coil anywhere. If your lucky you will find the bad spot.


Herb

[JohnnyP636]

Dont let that friend work on your bike anymore, extending the wires between the ballast and the bulb was a very stupid thing to do...Who knows what else he could have done wrong during the install...

[HERBXX]

You can check to see if all the pipes are hot , to try and figure out if it is only running on 2 cylinders . (don't use yr bare hand !)

[Kibosh3]

You can check to see if all the pipes are hot , to try and figure out if it is only running on 2 cylinders . (don't use yr bare hand !)

what would this tell you?

[HERBXX]

It would tell that a coil may not be working right . On most inline fours that I am aware of one coil fires 2 plugs.

[JohnnyP636]

It would tell that a coil may not be working right . On most inline fours that I am aware of one coil fires 2 plugs.

ummm not even, modern sport bikes have one seperate coil for each plug

[frekeyguy]

why don't you put the ecu from your buddies bike into yours?

is it the coil issue? or the coil plug? or the spark plug?

you should take out all your plugs and purge the motor, all the plugs should spark when connected to the boots. Then you'll be sure of what plugs are firing and what arent

[03Alstare600]

Changed ecu and it is still sayin c27 (coil 4) im lost....

[frekeyguy]

so its either another faulty coil, or the plug, or the wires.....

[sinbin]

Changed ecu and it is still sayin c27 (coil 4) im lost....

there is a short somewhere. I would follow coil 4 wiring back to the harness and work backwards until you identify. I think your friend has knoched a connector loose or stripped a wire somewhere.

[Grimmy]

There is a green wire from the ECM which runs to the coil. Look it over for any damage, especially if your friends wiring route took it along that same wire.

Another way to check it, is to disconnect the ECM and the #4 coil from the harness. Using a multimeter set to ohms or continuity (audible) check the green wire from the connector at #4 Coil, to Pin #10 on the ECM which is also the Green wire. There should be continuity. There should be no resistance. If there is continuity (getting tone and 0 Ohms reading), continue to next step. If there is no continuity, verify break in the wire, and repair. This is the signal wire from the ECM to the #4 coil to instruct the coil to fire.

The second wire running to #4 Injector on the harness is +B voltage. It is a Grey wire, which later on splices into the main harness and changes to Orange with a white strip.

Locate the Fuel pump relay or easier yet, locate the connector for the right handle bar running switch pod. Locate the pin for the Orange with White strip, and again, run a continuity test between that point and the grey wire at #4 coil. This is the power supply wire for the coil to charge up from before discharging.

Further information.
#4 coil is the right hand most coil, as if you were sitting on the bike, it would be by your right knee. It is NOT the coil closest to the left hand side of the bike, and it is NOT nearest Camshaft Position Sensor, which is on the left side of the bike near the throttle cables routing and the throttle cable actuator.

I suspect a problem with the firing signal control wire to the ECM, as the other coils are charging and firing.

If both these wires check out, and swapping ECM's and moving around the coils has already taken place, I am at a loss.

These checks, if the tank, air box, and body work has already been removed, should take all of just a few minutes to complete. The repair of a break in the wire may be difficult, especially of the break or burn through is inside the harness.

Again, look at where the routing of the "stereo wire" was run on the bike, and how it comes into proximity with those two wires. Again, the firing wire is Green, and the charging wire is Orange with a White stripe changing to Grey for the last 2 feet or so before plugging into the coil.

Be Gentle to the ECM and harness connections.

[03Alstare600]

Thanks for your help everyone... I ended droping it off at a local bike shop on Friday morning... havent heard n e thing back yet I will update this when I know what it is

[03Alstare600]

Guess I never updated this. It ended up being the crank sensor which took the dealership a month to figure out and over 20 hours of labour. I would not suggest ever using two wheel motorsports in Guelph. Something wasn't right that their "certified Suzuki" tech took over 20 hours to diagnose the bike. And to add their customer service was terrible! Never returned my calls I would have to show up there and sneak up on them so they wouldn't avoid me. Two thumbs down for two wheel motorsports.

[Brian P]

In fairness to that mechanic ... Electrical troubleshooting is only slightly less pleasant than torture, particularly when the ECU gives you a fault code which is unrelated to the actual fault.

I know others have already mentioned it but extending those wires with "speaker wire" was not a good plan. Even if the high voltage doesn't zap right through the insulation, you can get all sorts of problems due to EMI (electromagnetic interference).

[Rossi86]

It ended up being the crank sensor which took the dealership a month to figure out and over 20 hours of labour. I would not suggest ever using two wheel motorsports in Guelph. Something wasn't right that their "certified Suzuki" tech took over 20 hours to diagnose the bike.

Were you charged for this 20 hrs of labour or was it under the warranty? The warranty wouldn't cover it anyways if you're playing around modifying stock parts... At about $100/hr, that comes out to $2000 or more with taxes, in labour alone. You could've bought 4 low mileage motors for that money, 20 functional ECUs, and 100 coils...
People should always make a point of a max payment every time they send a bike to the shops. If they couldn't give an estimate after the 3rd hour, I would've told the mechanic to put the wrench down and forget about it...

[frekeyguy]

Guess I never updated this. It ended up being the crank sensor which took the dealership a month to figure out and over 20 hours of labour. I would not suggest ever using two wheel motorsports in Guelph. Something wasn't right that their "certified Suzuki" tech took over 20 hours to diagnose the bike. And to add their customer service was terrible! Never returned my calls I would have to show up there and sneak up on them so they wouldn't avoid me. Two thumbs down for two wheel motorsports.

its not like you were able to figure out the problem!.....