Year End Oil Change

[BondJamesBond]

It's time to put my baby to sleep for the winter and I'm wondering what to do with my oil change. These are my options...
1. Change the oil & filter with high grade replacements and start up my bike in the spring with no change to oil or filter.
2. Change the oil with clean fresh low grade oil, don't change the filter and in the spring, change the oil & filter with high grade replacements.

What do you think is the best option & why?

Also -- why is AMS oil so expensive? Is it worth the extra $

[infernobuster]

Option 2 ..

I always use canadian crappy oil when storing the bikes. Than come spring go get the good stuff and change out your filter as well ..

[RonnieRev]

Option # 1, why would you change oil that has 0 miles on it?

[GreyGhost]

I don't think AMS is worth the money. I use Mobil 1. There is a comparison test online (can't remember now where), and it showed that many of the really pricey motorcycle specific oils actually performed much worse than cheap oils. They rely on the "this is more expensive so it must be better" buyer. That test showed Mobil 1 on top in almost every category. That being said many people swear by AMS, so who knows.

[rsilk]

#1 - unless you like wasting your time & money.

/rs

[elkymutt]

#1 - unless you like wasting your time & money.

/rs

+1 on option #1 - you won't have to do another oil change in the spring!

[zacm7]

ams oil and a purolator fliter is what you need, wouldnt use anything different been there tried that. ams works by far the best in my ninja then anything else on the market that i have tried. honestly try everything out and see what works best in your bike.

[Dober]

#1. Just finished doing mine actually. I see no point in changing the oil a second time in the spring, why not just leave and whole engine empty if all its going to do is sit in the bottom of the pan all winter anyways?

[Riceburner]

#1 and run for a shorter interval than normal. i.e if regular interval is 5k, then maybe 3k do a change.

[RonnieRev]

Riceburner, why would you change the oil at a shorter interva ?

[Riceburner]

supposedly there is some breakdown sitting for a long while...so more of a "just in case". Though, sometimes the shorter interval ends up pretty close to the regular interval anyways.

[Dilligaf0220]

Don't forget condensation too, I thought that was more of a problem than just oil "breaking down" after a few months.

If it's in a heated or unheated garage that's at a stable temp no probs, but if it warms up and cools down a few times there's a chance some water will get in the oil every time it goes through a cycle.

[elkymutt]

Don't forget condensation too, I thought that was more of a problem than just oil "breaking down" after a few months.

If it's in a heated or unheated garage that's at a stable temp no probs, but if it warms up and cools down a few times there's a chance some water will get in the oil every time it goes through a cycle.

Condensation is a moot point. It would be very difficult to stop it completely. Think about your personal vehicle. Same thing. I'd imagine the condensation would just vapourize anyway when the bike gets up to temperature.

No sense losing sleep over it.

[DucDic]

bah, option 1, get it done now, let the bike sit in some fresh oil, and then come spring you are not having to get it done when you really just wanna be out there and ride...

[RonnieRev]

any condensation will boil off, as normal oil operating temp is between 220-230 deg f well above the boiling point of water

[scarface]

you guys winterize?

there's always been a time where i can fully warm it up then take it around the block a few times atleast once or twice each winter month.

[Riceburner]

you guys winterize?

there's always been a time where i can fully warm it up then take it around the block a few times atleast once or twice each winter month.

and that's enough to completely vaporise the condensation and prevent more form forming when you park it again?

[mma01]

you guys winterize?

there's always been a time where i can fully warm it up then take it around the block a few times atleast once or twice each winter month.

For short storage stints (i.e. 6 months during the winter) you are much better off leaving the bike parked rather than subjecting it to the unnecessary wear from cold starts and operating in conditions that may not bring the bike up to full operating temperature.

[scarface]

and that's enough to completely vaporise the condensation and prevent more form forming when you park it again?

overall half hour of operation? it probably is enough.

you will never eliminate the release of gases and breakdown of oil because you never completely drain the old oil out anyways. Condensation is a moot point anyways because you get condensation and eventual foaming if you neglect your oil changes, plus anyone that rides in the weather that we're experiencing now will have condensation forming. It's not as big of a deal, and the gases do escape.

if everyone wants the happy medium then ride the bike as much as you can till the new year then change the oil, and 3 months later you're ready to take it out for a weekly or bi-weekly ride. all with 1 oil change.



i don't understand why people are so paranoid about their engines. 90% of the people here will not get their bike beyond 40k's and will sell it shortly after. The engine will not blow, and it will work just fine, year after year.

maybe, i'm just spoiled cause i ride a honda and don't know any better

[scarface]

For short storage stints (i.e. 6 months during the winter) you are much better off leaving the bike parked rather than subjecting it to the unnecessary wear from cold starts and operating in conditions that may not bring the bike up to full operating temperature.

probably, but how long will your bike last you before your bike actually feels any of the effects of cold starts. my bike is kept in a garage thats relatively warm, so it's not an issue.