sea-foam in the crankcase before draining the oil, run engine up to temp, then change oil and filter.
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Hey all.
Was just curious if there is a product out there that I can run through after draining the oil to help remove any remaining/old gunk that has built up over the years? Reason I ask is the past 2 oil changes I've done, upon starting her up the oil hasn't filtered through right away. Almost like there is a blockage of some sort, so I'd like to avoid that this time around since the dry knocking noise can't be healthy for the bike each time I change the oil.
I've been using Motul 7100 Full Syn for about 2 years now, so it shouldn't be a matter of not waiting long enough for the oil to filter through.
**edit** I also change the oil filter everytime and pre-fill the filter to be sure oil circulates properly.
Any suggestions?
Cheers.
Last edited by ZiN; 08-21-2008 at 01:26 PM.
sea-foam in the crankcase before draining the oil, run engine up to temp, then change oil and filter.
Alright cool, thanks guys. I was not aware sea foam could be used for this purpose as well.
So just to be clear, to run it through the crankcase you'd pore the sea foam into the same opening as the oil correct?
same hole correct.
Out of curosity why r u doing that?
Cause if your answer is that hte oil is black and smelly there is another problem.
Well as I stated above, the oil isn't filtering properly the past two times I've changed the oil so I suspect there is some blockage. Even though the oil eventually filtered through after waiting a bit and starting the bike a few times to warm up the oil, I can only imagine if it needs to warm up the oil each time in order for it to flow smoothly that it could be slowly damaging parts on the inside. (no noises to suggest that but can't help but wonder)
So I'd like to make an attempt at clearing out the problem before taking the next step and getting a mechanic to diagnose the problem.
There is nothing suspect with the oil itself, comes out darker smelling like oil as it should.
Last edited by ZiN; 08-21-2008 at 03:08 PM.
Well here is the thing...
It's not a matter of waiting for the oil light to turn off, it's the fact that right away from the turn-over you hear this dry knocking noise. (Worse then a ducatti dry clutch) Clear sign that oil isn't present otherwise it would be properly lubricated and not make that knocking noise.
So yes, I've had to wait a little longer the past couple times I did my oil change for the oil to work it's way through before taking it around the block to work in the oil further.
Well the first time it ever did the knocking was my late season oil change last year. The knocking was only present from the time I started it, got startled and shut the bike off, then turned it over again after waiting another 5 mins to have it not make the noise again.
Then this year, start of the year it lasted much longer. Can't say how long since I kept turning it off everytime it made the knocking noise and wait a little longer. Then once it stopped and I thought everything was good, took it out for a run around the block to have the oil pressure light come back on, temp reading go up quickly then suddenly drop and have the pressure light turn off and have everything go back to running normal.
So now I'm coming up on yet another oil change, so I want to take some extra care this time around. I'm breaching the 60k mark now btw.
Last edited by ZiN; 08-21-2008 at 03:47 PM.
You have a mechanical problem, running a cleaner though the crankcase is not going to help.
I would check the oil presure with a remote gauge.
Do you have a manual for your bike?
So only AFTER you do an oil change you hear the sound for a few seconds and never agian until you do another oil change?
Do other bikes of your make/model make the same noise?
If that's so it may just be that the oil filter is new and is getting filled with oil after the change.
If that's not the case we start diving into questions as to what the exhaust smells/looks like and what the air filter smells/looks like.
I have a PDF version of the manual yes but am without a remote gauge.
Thats correct, only directly after I have done a full oil change do I hear the knocking sound and never again until the next one. It hasn't always made the noise after an oil change though, only the last 2 oil changes.
Again, I pre-fill the oil filter so that shouldn't be the issue.
As for the exhaust it has a slight hint of fuel smell and eventually develops a black ring around the opening after a couple long rides. (So I've noticed after cleaning it) Air filter, last time I changed it which was a month or so ago. Was dust covered on one side, can't recall the smell since I didn't think to smell it but I did swap it with a K&N filter.
I have one and happen to work in Aurora, if you want to borrow it you may. Pm me
Was this bike ever over filled with too much oil during htose 2 oil changes?
does it sound like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxPXk...eature=related
does the tick get faster when u rev it?
No, nothing like that then again it might just be the echo muffling it in the video but it doesn't sound like that. I guess you could describe it like a loud Cam Tensioner knocking/clacking type noise, it would get faster if I revved the bike.
And no, I've never over filled it with oil. It's very hard to over fill it since it takes 4L when bone dry, normally stick to the 3.6L to be on the safe side and add more if needed afterward.
how about this next time..
before u start it for the first time, leave the kill switch on and start it....as in, TRY to start it....the engine cranking will prime the oilpump/oil filter and u should have any noise when u do start it...
99 Honda VTR1000F Firestorm
Um, are you suggesting I start it dry? Would that be a complete set up for metal-to-metal contact which is, correct me if I am wrong, BAD!
No..
he is suggesting that you turn over the engine, but without starting it. Nothing dry.
This would be done in the hopes of priming the oil system at a much lower RPM than when the bike is running.
Not sure about your bike specifically, but many bikes will not crank over when the kill switch is killed, so this might not work.
If I were you, I'd be jumping all over measuring the oil pressure. start with that.
There could be an object clogging the oil reuptake. In your case i'd strongly suggest dropping the oil pan. There might be metal fragmentss or some seals that broke loose. Take off the bottom bolts of the oil pan and break it loose, that's the only way you can really tell what's going on. After you're done you have to use a gasket seal to retighten it. OH and obviously drain the oil before you try and take the pan off.
Last edited by rocketman1; 08-22-2008 at 09:23 AM.
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