04 Gsxr 600 Fi(c28 Code)

[240PLUS]

Whats up,

I recently bought a 04 gsxr 600 rode it for a day and was on my way home and lost power after 8000 rpm then FI code poped up. So I did the paperclip thing and it showed the infamous C28 code which means my servo is done(I think)... Can anybody tell me the best way of fixing this without cleaning out my bank account??

[JohnnyP636]

Do a search! Ive posted info about this in anther thread and dont feel like typing it out again, but the info it already here....somewhere....

[240PLUS]

does anybody know where I can get a used Servo??? or a used throttle body?? .....

[JohnnyP636]

does anybody know where I can get a used Servo??? or a used throttle body?? .....

I have one but you might not even need it? Ive had luck just resetting them on other 04/05 GSXR 600's....I remove the servo motor let it cycle off the TB's and then reinstall it....It has worked twice both on a 750 and 600

[240PLUS]

Hey Johnny,

This is Alan (Amys b/f)... If you could help I would really appreciate it! Ive called you a couple of times, just waiting for your return call. If you could reset mine or even sell me the one you go I would glady toss you some cash.

Let me know,

[JohnnyP636]

Hey Johnny,

This is Alan (Amys b/f)... If you could help I would really appreciate it! Ive called you a couple of times, just waiting for your return call. If you could reset mine or even sell me the one you go I would glady toss you some cash.

Let me know,

PM me! I rarely get a chance to answer my phone during the day, but Im online all day so I return PM's and Emails promplty...

If the bike is rideable its best if you can ride it over to my shop, I'll try resetting yours and if that dont work we can swap it out for one of the spare I have and see how that goes.....

Even if I have to lend you one out of a bike I know is good 100% untill you get a replacemnet servo, well get you on the road!

[240PLUS]

Just PM'd you.... Let me know when you are available. And thanks for all you help.

[JohnnyP636]

I hate you GSXR! This is a funny one, got it to work but only for 2 min then back to C28 damit! Tried 3 differnt servos, and in the end got his original (that has been opened and who knows what was done inside) servo reset and working properly. So its not only the servo thats causing the problem, Im going to try swapping ECU's and possibly the wiring harness for him....

This is the first time Ive seen one with C28 that after being reset came back right away, usually when I reset them they are good to go for decent period of time...

And I dont think hes too happy with the seller right now, he said he replaced the servo but its very obvious its just been opened and tinkered with (drilled out rivits replaced with screws and some kind of adhesive)....However it does work properly.

[JohnnyP636]

oops

[240PLUS]

You know im ****** and ready to toss this bike back on this guys driveway!!!!! I must say you did fix part of it(its pulls past 8000 rpm) for now. Just let me know when you find the Ecu and Ill be by to give it a try.

Thanx for all you help,

[JohnnyP636]

You know im ****** and ready to toss this bike back on this guys driveway!!!!! I must say you did fix part of it(its pulls past 8000 rpm) for now. Just let me know when you find the Ecu and Ill be by to give it a try.

Thanx for all you help,

Do me a favor put it in dealer mode again just to confrim its giving a C28 again, and not a new code. Cause if it still pulls past 8 but is giving you an FI error, it might be something differnt now. Possibly the TPS....

Either way we gotta have a closer look when I have more time, shop labor rates to troubleshoot something like this would cost a fortune. And sorry to say it but this is most likely the reason he sold this bike, but dont worry we will straighten it out for as cheap as possible...Your just lucky I have the parts and dont need them....

[240PLUS]

like I said I owe you Johnny.... I will go home tonight and pull the code again and let you know ASAP. Just let me know when you have time and ill pass by again, and Im sure this is why the bike was sold but what can I do (I do know were he lives LOL)

Thanxz again for your help,

[240PLUS]

if there is more than just the C28 code will they flash in sequence??

[JohnnyP636]

if there is more than just the C28 code will they flash in sequence??

Yes it will display each error code for a second then move onto the next, Ive seen up to 5 at once

[240PLUS]

ok ill check once I get off work and message you.

[Delboy]

c-28 means its a problem with the Secondary Throttle Position Sensor. Resetting it won't help (it may clear it for a day or so but it will be back) as 99.9% of the failures due a crappy soldering job and using brittle solder for RoHS compliance - think XBOX360 problems. typically 3-4 years is when these problems start ot occurr although I have seen one bike that failed at three months

I've fixed a number of these and have posted this on the board before as well as the GSXR forums. I've had about two dozen people write and thank me, hopefully I've been able to save them some money.

It’s a fairly common problem but the fix is simple and can be done with a few simple tools. Considering Suzuki will rape you for about $600 for a brand new throttle body (it only comes as a unit) and SON charged a friend of mine $2500 parts and labour, it’s worth spending an afternoon on.

Before you start, this is an emissions control part and is supposed to be warranted for 5 years although the Ontario law on emissions is very ambiguous, but if your bike is less than 5 years old - an 04 should qualify - its worth while talking to a decent Suzuki dealer or Suzuki Canada. Who knows, they might do something for you.

Remove the seat, tank and airbox cover. Turn the ignition on and make sure the secondary valve opens completely and then settles at about 95% closed. If it remains closed use contact cleaner on the electrical connectors to the motor and try again (I had one where just cleaning the contacts solved the problem). If it still fails to cycle, then test the resistance between the two top terminals and two bottom terminals. It should be around 8 ohms. If it’s not its most likely toast, but don’t worry, its not that hard or expensive to fix.

March mark the position of the Secondary Throttle Position Sensor (STPS) with a scribe or similar tool so you can align it when you put it back on. Remove the STPS and the STVA – It’s a security torx bit – available at crappy tire.

Drill out the rivets that hold the STVA together and pull the halves apart, then thread one of the screws into the back side of the actuator motor to pull it out of the housing – be very gentle here and be careful not to damage it.

You can now get a look at the solder joints. As i mentioned above the cause of 99% of the failures is cheap brittle solder for RoHS complaince and a crappy soldering job that was done in the first place. Try to remove all old solder from any broken joints then re-solder the four joints. Get a sucker from an electronics shop to suck the molton solder from the joint - you want to get rid of all that crap. You should also do all 4 joints when its off, if you leave one chances are you will have to do it again sometime. I find it easier to manage if I temporarily put the motor and connector assembly back into the housing

Now test the resistance – is it 7 or 8 ohms? – Good, problem solved. Reassemble the unit – I use some M3 screws with threadlock in place of the original rivets

Now reinstall on the bike - While facing the right side of the bike, use a flat-blade screwdriver to rotate the STVA keyway all the way counter-clockwise and install the STVA then manually open the valves and install the STPS but only tighten the screws finger tight.

Check the operation of the valves manually, they should rotate smoothly and open fully. If not then it is not aligned. Realign it – take your time and don’t proceed until its right – then align the matching marks you originally made on the STPS and tighten up the mounting screw

Almost done………

Turn on the ignition and test as described above. If the test is successful and the FI light is out then you gave successfully repaired it – install the airbox cover, tank and seat

Even of you have to buy the torx bit and soldering iron the whole repair will cost you less than $20 and a few hours of your time, and if it’s soldered properly, it will last just fine, better than the original.

Better than paying $600 for a new one or taking a gamble with an ebay part that will most likely fail in the same way.

[JohnnyP636]

c-28 means its a problem with the Secondary Throttle Position Sensor. Resetting it won't help (it may clear it for a day or so but it will be back) as 99.9% of the failures due a crappy soldering job and using brittle solder for RoHS compliance - think XBOX360 problems. typically 3-4 years is when these problems start ot occurr although I have seen one bike that failed at three months

I've fixed a number of these and have posted this on the board before as well as the GSXR forums. I've had about two dozen people write and thank me, hopefully I've been able to save them some money.

It’s a fairly common problem but the fix is simple and can be done with a few simple tools. Considering Suzuki will rape you for about $600 for a brand new throttle body (it only comes as a unit) and SON charged a friend of mine $2500 parts and labour, it’s worth spending an afternoon on.

Before you start, this is an emissions control part and is supposed to be warranted for 5 years although the Ontario law on emissions is very ambiguous, but if your bike is less than 5 years old - an 04 should qualify - its worth while talking to a decent Suzuki dealer or Suzuki Canada. Who knows, they might do something for you.

Remove the seat, tank and airbox cover. Turn the ignition on and make sure the secondary valve opens completely and then settles at about 95% closed. If it remains closed use contact cleaner on the electrical connectors to the motor and try again (I had one where just cleaning the contacts solved the problem). If it still fails to cycle, then test the resistance between the two top terminals and two bottom terminals. It should be around 8 ohms. If it’s not its most likely toast, but don’t worry, its not that hard or expensive to fix.

March mark the position of the Secondary Throttle Position Sensor (STPS) with a scribe or similar tool so you can align it when you put it back on. Remove the STPS and the STVA – It’s a security torx bit – available at crappy tire.

Drill out the rivets that hold the STVA together and pull the halves apart, then thread one of the screws into the back side of the actuator motor to pull it out of the housing – be very gentle here and be careful not to damage it.

You can now get a look at the solder joints. As i mentioned above the cause of 99% of the failures is cheap brittle solder for RoHS complaince and a crappy soldering job that was done in the first place. Try to remove all old solder from any broken joints then re-solder the four joints. Get a sucker from an electronics shop to suck the molton solder from the joint - you want to get rid of all that crap. You should also do all 4 joints when its off, if you leave one chances are you will have to do it again sometime. I find it easier to manage if I temporarily put the motor and connector assembly back into the housing

Now test the resistance – is it 7 or 8 ohms? – Good, problem solved. Reassemble the unit – I use some M3 screws with threadlock in place of the original rivets

Now reinstall on the bike - While facing the right side of the bike, use a flat-blade screwdriver to rotate the STVA keyway all the way counter-clockwise and install the STVA then manually open the valves and install the STPS but only tighten the screws finger tight.

Check the operation of the valves manually, they should rotate smoothly and open fully. If not then it is not aligned. Realign it – take your time and don’t proceed until its right – then align the matching marks you originally made on the STPS and tighten up the mounting screw

Almost done………

Turn on the ignition and test as described above. If the test is successful and the FI light is out then you gave successfully repaired it – install the airbox cover, tank and seat

Even of you have to buy the torx bit and soldering iron the whole repair will cost you less than $20 and a few hours of your time, and if it’s soldered properly, it will last just fine, better than the original.

Better than paying $600 for a new one or taking a gamble with an ebay part that will most likely fail in the same way.

His was already opened and modded, and the 2 spare units I used to test on his bike were 100% operational. Even when I put one back on the bike it came from it worked right away....So its not just a servo motor problem in his case I think......Whoever did the modding was a butcher thou, it looked like they broke it open rather then just opening it...

And Ive taken these off before and reset them, and theve worked fine for over a year since....No mods no Ebay replacements....If he wants to he can buy one of my spares for pretty cheap and mod that I guess....

[240PLUS]

Ya the one I have was butchered for sure(LOL)..... Anyway thanx for you input and hopefully I wont have to go that far!! Johnny I tested the bike again and the only code comming up is C28 for sure.... So whatever you want to try just let me know when you have time... like I said before ill gladly toss you cash for you time and work.

[Ulsterman]

Its a crap shoot with these things. From what I understand the controller is made in China

I had two fail. You can try to reset it but it will trigger a C28 eventually. I used to get 3, 4 days, even a week after a reset but it always came back.

The first time the bike was just over 2 years old and Suzuki replaced it for free. Its an emissions part so its supposed to have a 5 year warrenty. I got 8 months out of that one and them I did the fix Delboy described above. The bike's been fine even since.

If some butcher has been in there hacking around junk the unit. Its probably not salvageable.

I may have one in the garage. Let me check and see what year its off.

If I do I'll resolder it for you an you can have it. Hopefully it should fix you right up.....

Just buy me a bottle........

[240PLUS]

what do u drink and its urs