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1. Regardless of the method used, the assembly link is potentially the weakest part of the chain and should be installed with great care.
2. There is no difference in strength between properly installed clip and rivet links. One side plate on a clip link (the side where the clip is) is actually stronger than the others.
3. As was already said, all accidents caused by failed assembly link are the result of improper installation, poor maintenance, or both. The type of link has very little to do with it - you can screw up the installation of a rivet link just as easily as you can the clip one, probably even easier.
4. Clips do not fall off if they are installed properly.
5. Clip links will not wear faster than the rest of the chain, and neither will rivet ones. If your link breaks the chances are the rest of the chain was toast long before that happened or it was improperly installed.
6. Clip can be installed by people with minimal experience that are capable of following simple instructions, especially on no-ring chains. I wouldn't touch a rivet link unless I have good tools and a lot of practice with other people's chains :>.
I had a chain break on me only once. It was a clip link no-ring chain that was at the very end of it's life and overtightened by mistake. I was lucky enough that it just flew up in the air behind me and didn't hit, break or block anything. Would a rivet hold better in that particular case? The question is irrelevant because I'm sure the chain would still break.
Last edited by Vlad; 01-25-2008 at 11:05 AM.
NOTE: I don't visit this board frequently and do not accept private messages. You can reach me at GTAmotorcycle[At]aca{dot.}cc
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Is that one of the $200 ones.....
Thinkin about it takes all the fun out of it !
I just recently purchased a 520 conversion kit (both sprockets and high-quality chain) with a rivet type master link and a professional chain breaker/installation kit from "Sum of all parts" for under $300 including shipping. Excellent customer service and it arrived in less than a week. I believe I paid $85 for the breaker/installation kit itself.
http://www.sumofallparts.net/product...7-ec3379706906
I wouldn't even consider putting a clip type master link on my bike.
Note: With the tool kit I purchased it is recommended/necessary to grind down the rivet head before extracting the rivet using the tool for most SS bike chains.
Last edited by Teal; 01-25-2008 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Additional information: note.
+1 on "the Sum of all Parts...."
They have alot of older stuff that others don't carry as well...
I have a buddy on the USA side so I get mine shipped a little cheaper...
Thinkin about it takes all the fun out of it !
I have the $85.00 Motion Pro tool. It works quite well. If I were to make that purchase again though, I would buy the RK tool ($91.62). It's a bit more solid and robust. Just my 2 cents.
What bearing does HP have to do with clip type? The clip doesn't take the load from the engine!
For lower HP bikes, it still sucks bad when an imporperly installed clip type link falls off.
I really don't see the link between HP and master link type?
I could maybe understand the arguemnt about sustained higher speeds possibly helping the clip to fly off. But people with higher powered liter bikes don't regulary do speeds in excess of what a 600cc bike can do on the streets. I would consider any chain faliure at speeds above 60 km/hr to be catastrophic in nature. It plain sucks at any speed!
I broke down and ordered the RK chain tool from some of all parts. It says it is mechanic quality and if I plan on tracking my baby I will probably need it again anyway.
Thanks for all the info guys/gals...
It's hard to make the turn when your staring at the ditch
I have seen clips installed backwards on bikes many times. I suspect that that is the reason a lot of them jump off. I've never lost a clip and I stuck with clips to make side of the road repairs easier, but if I was just riding locally, I'd go with a rivet and basically forget about it.
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