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"Fantino has been quoted saying he is "satisfied" with the 41 per cent conviction rate under the new law. I'm glad he's not running a brain surgery school" - Kenzie
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+1000
This is what I do. You just want to make sure you get some fuel stabalizer so that it doesnt gum up your carbs (if you have a carb) so in the spring it will be ready to start first try
Take the battery inside I didnt do this last year on my CRF and now it doesnt hold a charge so I just kick it lmao.
Lube so the chain doesnt rust is pretty obvious. If you wanna get really fancy take the chain inside too
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2007 GSXR750, 2005 CRF450X | Proud Member of the 2006-2008 ODSC! | Facebook me!
i just changed my oil less then 1000km ago with synthetic. i am not going to spend another 60$ to just do a oil change for the hell of it. the oil is still new... you dont need to changed the oil if you just did it, thats just stupid and a good way to remove currency from your wallet.
2000 GSXR600
"Fantino has been quoted saying he is "satisfied" with the 41 per cent conviction rate under the new law. I'm glad he's not running a brain surgery school" - Kenzie
Kriptik Riders: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=2317743102
Fighting a Ticket: http://www.roadwarriors.ca/ontario_traffic_tickets_speeding_tickets_tutorial
http://www.naseinvestors.com
http://www.jafrum.com
Hi everyone. I bought a 2001 ZZR250 this summer. During winter I will keep the bike in the garage. Do I need to do anything special before putting it to rest for winter. Do I need to empty tank and carburator? I dont mind starting the engine once in a while if that will save me from some serious mechanical work to keep the bike in good shape.
Here is a nice thread from a different forum...
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=213519
Since your bike has a carb too.
T
'07 DRZ400SM
leaving the tank empty is a good way to get it to rust
store your tank full with stabilizer
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I think the manual has a good write up on that. If u take the motorcyle course in Durham, they also taught that.
Resident Loudmouth
why not just start it once a week and ride it in the drive way once snow and iced have been cleared.
I haven't winterized a bike in donkeys years, waste of time and money.
If you do however plan on doing a start up on a cold day in the winter at least make sure the bike reaches operating temperature, moisture is not good.
Do you think you're the first person on this site to ever have a question about storing a bike for winter? Use the Fing search button, or better yet, google.
"So I was sitting in my cubicle today, and I realized, ever since I started working, every single day of my life has been worse than the day before it. So that means that every single day that you see me, that's on the worst day of my life." - Office Space
i do mine in stages... just in case I may ride again. First the fluid changes, transmission oil and engine oil, then the stabilizer, sometimes I use up to 2 tanks with the stabilizer in,('cause of good weather that is unforseen) and have to add more. When I think it is time I then give it a good wash. When I am 100% sure I will not ride again I drain the carburater,then I fog the engine. When I am 110% sure I will not ride again, then I take the battery out and put it on a battery tender,usually this is after the first snowfall. Then I make sure the bike is CLEAN and DRY, and I may wd 40 the switches and maybe even the whole bike or I may just slowley take the bike apart to repair small things or install stupid things that I don't really need and end up taking them off next year. I document everything and write down exactly what tools I used so that I can do everything with a hand full of tools and that way I don't have to carry tools I don't need. I keep a list of tools needed for each job in the repair manual, I have a list for everything...ie engine oil change, transmission oil change, carb draining etc. Over the winter I try to change the brake fluid, I may Bleed them or just open the master cylinder and take some out and replace it with fresh stuff (using a dedicated turkey baster or a large syringe). When I make the tool list I include everything, for instance...when I drain the carb I need tools to remove the horn and I need rags to catch the minimal amount of gas left after I let the bike run dry with the fuel turned off, I also need an extending magnet to catch the drain screw when I unscrew it 'cause it will fall, I use the magnet to start the screw and a screwdriver to finish the job. Even unhooking the battery has a list of tools. Lists make these jobs go smoother year after year.(I've had this bike now for 12 years). My 2 cents. P.S. If I have and acid battery I will top it up with distilled water only, not that stuff that crappy tire sells for batteries,only distilled water, that other stuff is de-ionized water and I think it is not mineral free. Don't over-charge the battery like I used to, get a battery TENDER....well worth the money. Get some good tools for EVERY job, Mastercraft quality or better, don't go the jobmate route or you will be sorry.
Ooops.... I forgot to mention, once the engine is fogged real good, DON'T START IT 'TILL YOU ARE READY TO RIDE. I fog it then turn the engine over, (it won't start 'cause no gas), then fog it again, squirting oil in the cylinders is a pita it smokes like crazy when you fire it up in the spring, fogging gives you a nice clean start up in spring. Have a nice winter cleaning your bike.
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