FS: YEC Yamaha Racing style ECU reflash for 2006 to 2011 Yamaha R6 or 2007 to 2008 R1

[toysareforboys]

For sale:

One - YEC Yamaha Racing style ECU reflash (VIN locked). I purchased two flashes (one for my GF's 09 R6 and one for my 09 R6S but the flash is incompatible with my 09 R6S).

Works on: 2006 to 2011 Yamaha R6 and 2007 or 2008 Yamaha R1.

Price: $120 for just the flash or $200 for flash and full live AFR tune with custom FULL map (not just WOT, built on YOUR bike with YOUR mods!).

Gains: On the dyno you'll see peak +4.5HP/+2.5TQ for 06/07 R6, +6HP/.4TQ (+10HP/+4TQ @ 15k RPM) for 08 to 11 R6, +14HP/+2TQ for 07/08 R1.

What it does:

#1. Unlocks the "rider safety" limiters in the ECU (YCC-T Throttle Restriction). Did you know that the R6 restricts you to 60% throttle under 10000rpm even if you've got the throttle wide open!!?! and under 9000rpm at 80% throttle it only gives 60% as well? It doesn't matter how far you twist it, you're only getting 60% throttle up to 10k RPM! INSANE! Removes the limiters so how far you twist the grip = how much throttle the bike will give you.

#2. Dual Maps - Fuel Economy/Performance. It loads in two maps, a super fuel saving map that is in use when ever you are under 60% throttle. As soon as you hit 60% throttle or over it instantly enables "performance" mode/map and throws fuel economy out the window in favour of all out power No physical map switch required, all done automatically.

#3. Ignition Timing/Advance - Allows you to increase the ignition timing for even MORE power. +4 degrees is super safe on 91 pump gas. REALLY boosts the power down low, cause we all know R6's suck donkey balls down low.

#4. Raise Rev Limiter - With the flash you can make usable power for another 500RPM, a stock 08+ R6 starts to lose massive power over 14000RPM (rev limit 16750) but after the flash makes monster power (+10HP over stock) right to 17250RPM.

#5. Raise the idle. No other way to do it properly on 06+ R6. Provides better charging at idle and much smoother idle, no more bounce. Raising from 1250RPM to only 1400RPM makes a huge difference

#6. Adjust cooling fan kick on/off ranges. Tired of the bike absolutely cooking you in the summer? Have the fans come on sooner (96 degrees instead of 102), keeps the bike and you cooler.

#7. Disable "Canadian" immobilizer. Get extra keys cut for your bike for $8

#8. ECU based Quick Shifter! Use any Power Commander style quick shifter hardware directly with the ECU, no power commander required! To make the power commander do it PROPERLY you'd need the Power Commander PLUS the Ignition module (so it'd cut all 8 fuel injectors). ECU quick shifting is way better! *wiring adapter harness required*

It also allows you to change the engine braking, import power commander maps, remove the top speed limiter (on R1 only I think?), adjust variable intake stack YCC-I control by RPM, etc.

FAQ:

Q. Will this work on a bone stock bike?
A. It's best if you remove the catalytic converter. Best done with an M4 midpipe or MJS Headers or of course a full exhaust system. You can run the stock muffler with the M4 mid pipe or the MJS headers and it'll work fine, but it'll sound kinda crappy and be damn loud. Any slip-on designed for the 06-11 R6 will fit on the M4 mid pipe or MJS headers. Also recommended to install Smog Block Off Plates, and rip out all the smog stuff, AIS pump, hoses, etc. The smog plates will stop pop and gurgle on deceleration (doesn't hurt the bike at all if you don't install them).

Q. Do I need a power commander?
A. No. The ECU flash does everything the power commander can do, and then some!

Q. What if I already have a power commander?
A. If you've had it custom tuned we can pull the map from it and flash it into your ECU and then you can remove the power commander and sell it. Or, if it's the PCV you could get the AutoTune module for $200 for it, only pay the cheaper $$ flash fee and it'll "AutoTune" your bike as you drive around normally! If you already have the quick shifter it'll wire right into the ECU.

Q. Does anything get installed on my bike, any wires cut, etc?
A. No. The ECU flash is done using identical plugs to your bikes factory wiring, unplug your ECU, plug in flash connector, flash, plug ECU back in, done. I keep the flash hardware so that I can use it to work on my GF's 09 R6.

Q. If I change my stock air filter to a K&N after the flash, do I need to get it re-tuned, etc?
A. Don't use K&N. If you're not going to run factory get a BMC filter. An aftermarket air filter makes very little difference in the tune when you're not running on the ragged edge of lean like the stock computer is! If you changed your exhaust system (from say just a mid pipe to a full system) you might need a re-tune, same if you dropped some cams in, etc. I can make you a deal on the re-tune if you need it in the future.

Q. Do I have to send you my ECU out of my bike, if not how do you flash it?
A. It's best if you bring the bike to me (Whitby). That way I can flash it in YOUR bike, make sure everything works peachy with YOUR mods. It's also possible for me to drive to your location and flash it at your place but I'd rather not do that.

Q. Will this work on my track bike?
A. If you're currently running the stock ECU, then absolutely. We can make a special map for running U4.4, MR12, etc. +6 degree ignition advance works really sweet on race fuel.

Any questions feel free to send me a PM.

-Jamie M.

[toysareforboys]

bumpity bump

-Jamie M.

[toysareforboys]

Oh man this thing is INSANE! And people say 600's are gutless down low! LOL! Not when they are unlocked they aren't



Who wants the other flash? 06-11 R6 and 07/08 R1, come get some!

-Jamie M.

[toysareforboys]

Bumpity bump bump! First words after my girlfriend got back from her first ride with the flashed ECU "How much do steering dampers cost?" LOL!

-Jamie M.