bolt extraction - scarborough

**RockerGuy** · 04-11-2012, 12:49 PM

When you guys get that bolt out, do yourselves a favor and get a Stainless steel bolt.

Iron bolts & aluminum tends to galvanize itself together

**autodocjr** · 04-11-2012, 01:45 PM

If you need help lemme know I'm pretty good with this stuff. I have had good luck with a punch to get it turning. Or weld a nut to it if you have a welder. Turn your amps up high the heat will help it free up. Whatever you do if your going to drill it don't heat it up. You will be forever drilling through it.

**JohnnyP636** · 04-11-2012, 02:08 PM

Originally Posted by RockerGuy

When you guys get that bolt out, do yourselves a favor and get a Stainless steel bolt.

Iron bolts & aluminum tends to galvanize itself together

That will happen with any dissimilar metal mixing, so going stainless although a better quality bolt will not prevent that, as it is still a different metal....This is why they have specific products like anti seize, although again anti seize will not prevent problems due to over tightening bolts

**RockerGuy** · 04-11-2012, 02:19 PM

Originally Posted by JohnnyP636

That will happen with any dissimilar metal mixing, so going stainless although a better quality bolt will not prevent that, as it is still a different metal....This is why they have specific products like anti seize, although again anti seize will not prevent problems due to over tightening bolts

The way galvanic corrosion works is that one metal will corrode itself rather than the other metal.

But since SS is less reactive than iron, there will be less of a reaction. Antiseize might help, but I won't bet too much on it

**frekeyguy** · 04-11-2012, 02:34 PM

Originally Posted by RockerGuy

The way galvanic corrosion works is that one metal will corrode itself rather than the other metal.

But since SS is less reactive than iron, there will be less of a reaction. Antiseize might help, but I won't bet too much on it

Anti-seize helps a TON....that's my opinion on it.

**FriendlyFoe** · 04-11-2012, 08:02 PM

Originally Posted by Mozz

I agree. If you snap the quesy out (done that) then you're in real trouble and probably into removing the head and getting it spark eroded. Better to be safe than sorry and take it to a garage who often have to deal with snapped manifold studs.

Thats what i'm thinking. Already tried to get vice grips on there to no avail. Cut a slot in whats sticking out so now i have to grind it flat if i want to center punch drill it, and then if i screw up trying to drill it out, yikes. I dont have a welder, i think the easiest way for a shop to get this out is going to be to tack a stick onto the end of the bolt and turn it out, even if it takes a half hour i think that'd be well worth it. I'll probably just trailer it to a shop and have them deal with it

Originally Posted by Low rider

How much crap has already gone in the exhaust flange??????
.

See all that blue tape in the second pic? About as much crap as would go in during the time it took me to take that picture.

**NP6000** · 04-11-2012, 08:39 PM

In the past, I had a similar problem. Due to time constraints and limited equipment on hand I drilled and tapped the damaged bolt and used a smaller fastener to assemble the header.

Not the ideal solution, but it has been like that for 2+ years. When/if it fails, I now have an acetylene torch to take care of the broken bolt.

Also, if you happen to try to use a screw extractor, take care not to break the extractor as it is very difficult to drill out with non-carbide drill bits. Ask me how I know...