CBR125 Dirty Bars Project

[Ride_Safe]

Alright, so I figured I would make a new thread for this to start fresh.
This is a continuation of my "CBR125 Dual Sport" thread.
http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum...125-Dual-sport

You can view pictures of what my bike currently looks like here:
http://twistedtravster.tumblr.com/

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I want to put a set of motocross bars on my CBR125. To do this, I need to replace the stock bars as well as replacing the entire front headlight section. Then I need to move my gauges onto the forks and try my best to get the controls (throttle, clutch, brake, high-beam/signals, kill-switch) onto the new bars. I know it can definitely be done, because I've seen pictures and video of other people who did the same thing.

This is pretty much what the bars will look like when I'm done:


This is what they look like now:


Here is a video of a guy on a CBR125 with dirty bars doing wheelies:


Here's another example of the bars on a CBR125:


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I've begun putting a parts list together for what I'm going to need...
This is what I've got so far:

Fly Racing Tapered Bars

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...andlebars.aspx
$60


Pro Taper Rubber Mount Bar Clamps

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...Mount-Kit.aspx
$40


BikeMaster Handlebar Risers (maybe)

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...T.ac=SLIsearch
$34


Grips (doesn't matter, as long as they work)
$10-15


Moose Racing Road Warrior Headlight Kit

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/195/34353/ITEM/Moose-Racing-Road-Warrior-Headlight.aspx
$70

I may also need to order longer replacement cables, but I wont know until I find out.
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The first step is removing everything I don't need. Then I need to find a way to mount the bar clamp onto my triple clamp. This can be done by drilling directly into the flat part between the fork tubes. I'm not sure how well that will work with the embedded Honda symbol in the way though. It looks to me like the people who put the bars on their CBR125s drilled right into it, so I'm assuming it isn't a problem. If this becomes a problem, then I may need to find a way to make a custom pinch bolt, which would be attached to a flat piece of thick aluminum that would bridge the fork tubes together. Then I'm sure I could drill the bar clamps into that without a problem.

I decided on the tapered bars because I couldn't find a 7/8" bar clamp, and I just like the style of the standard sized bars. So I'm going to use the 1-1/8" over-sized bar clamp, but with tapered bars, so it will fit at the clamp, but will still have the standard 7/8" for grips and controls. I don't plan on using handlebar risers, unless the bars need to be higher to make it over the bolt on each of my fork tubes.

I also read that you should put rubber washers on each side of the bar clamps to help with vibrations. One thing I'm a little confused about is whether my brake, throttle, clutch, signal/high-beam switch, and kill switch will all fit on the mx bars. I'm not sure if there will be enough space to fit, and whether all of them will properly clamp on the 7/8" bar. I'm also not sure how to extend the wires and cables, but that should be the easiest.

Lastly, I may need to pick up parts to make a custom mount for my gauges. They are currently mounted onto the front headlight/cluster and the frame in front of the tank. Instead, I need them to be on the forks so that they pivot with the wheel, along with the new headlight. I still have no idea what I'm going to do for the custom mount, but once I'm able to see everything in front of me, I'm sure I'll figure something out.

That's all I've got for now. I'm looking for constructive criticism and any possible suggestions.

[stevie t]

I always wanted to trim the stop tabs on the clip-on and rotate the bars so they are aligned straight across in hopes of saving my kneecaps and thumbs on these bikes. Maybe try that before the handlebar conversion? Might give you the same effective position and riser height?

[Ride_Safe]

I actually know a guy who did something similar. He used standard 1.25" bar risers. It looks cool, and I'm sure it works great, but I really want the motocross bars on mine.

This is what his bars look like, if you want to compare them to mine:


Anyway, your idea to cut off the stop tabs wouldn't work. The stock bars barely fit when you turn them all the way, and rotating them to be straight would be in the way of the front fairings. So you would need to replace the headlight section anyway. And, if I'm going to to that, I might as well just do what I want with the mx bars.

[Ride_Safe]

I may choose to just use cheap carbon steel over-sized 1-1/8" bars, because they are actually half the price of the aluminum tapered ones. But the only downfall is that they are heavier, and they don't have nearly as much flex capability, which can make it a lot less comfortable. But both of them are probably more comfortable than the bars I currently have. To me, the only thing that matters is price. I'm also not sure whether standard or over-sized bars would fit my throttle/clutch/brake/switch controls better.


Moose Racing Carbon Steel 1-1/8" Oversized Bars

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...andlebars.aspx
$30

Another question I have is about the bars. When I go to select them on Motorcycle Superstore, it gives me a huge drop down menu of different types. I have no idea which to choose from.

Enduro
Carmichael
CR High
CR Low
Windham
Henry/Reed
Suzuki RM/RMZ
Kawasaki KFX
McGrath/Short
RC/OE Honda
RC Mini
Yamaha YFZ 450
Yamaha YZ/YZF

[Z1K]

All those options refer to how the bar is bent. Height, sweep, etc. it's personal preference. Your best bet is to head to a bike shop like Royal Distributing and hold a bunch to see what you like.

[Ride_Safe]

Alright. Thanks for the info. I was worried that some of them wouldn't work.

[rmemedic]

I did a mx bar conversion on my sled... It took more time and money than I expected.
If you go with aluminum bars, the inner diameter is smaller than steel bars. So when you go to put in bar ends or those mirrors, you will need to hone out the inside of the bars so your bar ends or mirrors will fit. The drill bit I bought for this was like a $12 bit, but it worked.

Wiring extension is easy, just go get some wire, should be 18 or 20 gauge, a solder gun, some flux and solder and heat shrink tubing and go to town. Doesn't take long once you get good at it.

[Ride_Safe]

I just received my new Moose Racing CR Low Handlebars, as well as my Rox Pivoting 7/8" Handlebar Risers.


All I need now is the actual bar clamps and I'm set to start drilling the top of the triple tree, mounting the bars, and seeing how much cable/wiring extension that I need.


I plan on replacing the Moose Racing Bar Pad cover with a custom made CBR cover to suit the bike better.

[rich6969]

i have been kinda following your threads and Props to you Op for doing what you have done....... Sounds like you like playing off road more, would it not make more sense to sell your bike and pick up a enduro style Bike?

[Ride_Safe]

With 50,000km on it, and all the abuse I've given this bike, it probably wouldn't sell for much. Plus, there's always the "why not?" factor, because I love my CBR125. I even plan on buying another one when this bike stops running.

You can find them on Kijiji for $1500-2000 practically brand new. So, there's not much competition in terms of other bikes to make mine much of a selling point. In my opinion, it's worth more in the amount of fun I can have on it with a few mods than the money I'll get if I sell it. And even so, who would buy a CBR125 that's been abused and taken off-road, when they can buy a nearly new one for a couple $100 more?

[w0SS]

This looks like a cool project! Keep us posted with the progress you make on it