Do you fill the tank up with gas when you are storing the bike or leave it empty? is yours a Ninja 250 as well?
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I doubt its the storing procedure as well... Here's what i did to winterize my bike last winter and the previous winters.
1. Change oil/filter
2. Store her away.
3. Relax.
Out of the 3 winters, i only used fuel stabilizer on one of them. Otherwise, its just changing the oil and filter and putting her on a stand. She fires up every time on first or second try.
Now to warm up the bike heres what i do
1. Full choke for about 30 seconds
2. Off i go.
Bike is stock with Aftermarket exhaust. No rejet. and still on OEM spark plugs.
Do you fill the tank up with gas when you are storing the bike or leave it empty? is yours a Ninja 250 as well?
If you still have warranty.....Take the bike in and have them fix it or figure out the problem, at least this is what I would do
You now have the bike starting, and running, it just won't idle or stay on without choke, right ?
I would go to the dealer and tell them, exactly that, no more no less, your winterizing seems fine to me, there is something wrong here and I don't think it has anything to do with how you stored it.
Again if it's under warranty, take it drop it off, and tell them to call you once it's running correctly, and when you pick it up all you want is a smile and them to tell you to have a nice day.
Warranty is covered by Kawasaki, your dealership will not be out of pocket, actually most places like warranty work, as they get paid directly from the manufacturer....
Now if you don't have warranty, you continue trouble shooting on your own, or pay to get it fixed
Best of luck
best to have as much gas in the tank as possible, it prevents and minimizes condensation which can/will cause rust, an empty tank can condensate if there is a change in temperature where the bike is stored.
Last edited by GateKeeper; 03-23-2012 at 11:10 AM.
2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250
1983 Suzuki GS750E - Rebuild Project
Yeah I didnt do anything different apart from adding stabil to the tank so this must be a known issue with this model bike..I have an appt with the dealer but I have a feeling they will **** me over and say I need to pay for the carb cleaning...lets see what happens...I might need to write a complaint letter to kawasaki if tht happens.
Bike won't run, you have warranty, they should fix it, and no charge to you for anything, I would be getting in touch with Kawasaki right now and advise them the dealer is already hinting that it's your fault, and might be looking at charging you for repairs.....
2012 Kawasaki Ninja 250
1983 Suzuki GS750E - Rebuild Project
Yeah I think I will be stern with them about this issue...it makes no sense that I would have to pay if the bike has warranty...thanks Gatekeeper and everyone else for the advice and suggestions..also thanks to Frekeyguy for being so helpful...hes a great guy and very knowledgeable.
How did the appointment go? I'm having the same problem with my 250. When I give it gas she stalls. After about 5-10 minutes of this I can get her to run fine. Did the mechanic tell you what the problem was?
'08 NINJA 250r | Since 2011
I have the choke open full until the rpms get up to 3k. Then I close the choke and rpms idle at 1k. If give it throttle slowly the RPM get up to 3k but then the bike stalls or sputters. If I release the clutch and give it throttle in first, she dies. It is cold in Ottawa today, about 7 degrees. Not sure if that is making a difference.
'08 NINJA 250r | Since 2011
Why do you turn the choke off when it reaches 3k? I have my choke on at 5k for 30 seconds. and ride off (choke off). It still sputters but by the time i hit the main road, its all fine and dandy. Also set your idle higher. I have mine at 1.2k. But make sure you set it when the engine is fully warmed up.
Okay thanks. I'll turn up the idle and let the bike warm up to 5K with the choke open. I stalled it in an intersection tonight when I gave it gas turning left and it really freaked me out. Traffic had to stop and I couldn't get the bike to move without keeping the choke open.
'08 NINJA 250r | Since 2011
The most engine wear occurs during when the engine is cold. Oil is at its densest and is at the bottom of the cylinders. That's why you may prefer not to let your engine rev 5k when it's cold.
Anytime I use choke, I don't let the rev over 2k. But I do have to give it more warming up time in order to reach the same place as your 30sec - 1min situation. It's not like I will be keeping my 250 forever, but still depending on the temperature, I warm up the bike 2-5 mins, and I don't rev the bike too high in the first few kms.
2009 Ninja 250r (June, 2011 - present)
I have been letting my bike warm up longer than the first two days and it seems to be running fine. The temp has been about -1 - 4*C in the morning so I guess it just needed more time with the choke on.
'08 NINJA 250r | Since 2011
I may be wrong but my idle after a full warm up should be around 1.4k ramp. If its lower maybe you should turn up the idle knob. Its still cold so my ninja still takes a min or two. The only thing I did to winterize my ninja this winter was out stabil. I know that's bad but she started up and ran just fine. Surprisingly the battery wasn't even dead. Last year I did all the proper winterising and i t took forever to start after having to clean out the carbs and cleaning the spark plugs.
Also I don't know abut your choke but mine does nothing if I set it at half or 3/4 way. It doesn't change the rpms at all, I either have to put it on all the way or off. With choke on at full warm up it should be at 5k rpm
Edit sorry I meant mine idles at 3.5 with full choke when its warm
Lion
Last edited by Sillylion; 04-06-2012 at 04:57 PM.
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