Thanks booya and daveg a pic is worth a thousand words, I see now, kinda like the 2 stroke rotax jugs on my speedster.
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I've had 2 450's.
You can get a new cylinder and pistons for not two much $$. I rebuilt one and did not use new wristpin circlips likely $1 or so. don't make that mistake.
You just lower the cylinder over the pistons using the long studs.
There are no con bolts on the bottom end. The crank is pressed on the con rods.
You can hone the clyinders and use oversized rings. in that case you don't even need to take the pistons off of the rods.
Thanks booya and daveg a pic is worth a thousand words, I see now, kinda like the 2 stroke rotax jugs on my speedster.
Bikes: Past 02' Kat / 01' CBR 929 RR / 06' R6 50th A.E.
Bikes: Present: 05' R1 - The Black One
have you checked the igintion coils with a strobe light at high rpms, if the coils are braking down, it will pump oil past the rings.
Barrie and area riders.
http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum...d.php?t=123778
Amsoil Oil? PM me
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
You guys are dull! no one is curious about the corn flakes box? When working on a motor like this I use a corn flakes box (or similar) for the bolts. Often the bolts for a timing cover, rocker box, head bolts etc are different lengths and diameters and can be a pain to sort when reassembling. If you stick the bolt through the cardboard in the same pattern as they are on the motor it is a breeze to reassemble in the correct position.
"If you have ten thousand regulations, you destroy all respect for the law." Winston Churchill
We thought everyone knew that already, but good tip. And that short pieces of 1x2 work well to hold the pistons in place when you put the barrels back on. Use large hose clamps to hold the rings in place, easy to remove after install. Can't remember how many of these I've done, not a difficult job and very rewarding.
if the cylinder doesn't fire, because of the igintion braking down, the piston will create a vaccum on the compression stroke, pulling oil up past the rings. there is no explosion driving the piston down, it's the other cylinders pulling it down drawing oil passed the rings. this is common on multi cylinder engines, with electrical (coil intermitted failure) or spark plugs. this test would be done after the leak down test.
Thank you for all the input this thread has received.
I ran the compression test dry a couple times and got a reading of 170psi on each cylinder.
I then put in a couple drops and got a reading of 180 - 185psi
I did it a third time and put in a bit more oil with a reading of 190 psi
Now I know boooya had mentioned that a higher reading with the oil indicated a buggered lower end. Based on my result, what do you think?
Barrie and area riders.
http://www.gtamotorcycle.com/vbforum...d.php?t=123778
Amsoil Oil? PM me
Most motorcycle problems are caused by the nut that connects the handlebars to the saddle.
Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
Those numbers are good and high. My guess is that the intake oil seals are not doing their job and the high pressure readings could be from carbon build up if those numbers are higher than the norm for that bike.
Last edited by Tripletrouble; 03-08-2012 at 10:03 AM.
"If you have ten thousand regulations, you destroy all respect for the law." Winston Churchill
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