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Does anyone know where the flasher relay in an 09 civic is located? My signals have shorted and I think it's the relay that's gone! Can't find it.
Thanks
Moderator
Does it have one? A lot of cars have all that stuff controlled by a lighting module nowadays. No flasher relay. I don't know if that Civic generation is like that.
What do you mean by "shorted" ... what are the real symptoms. Signals don't flash on one side / both sides or signals flash too fast on one side / both sides, or one particular corner doesn't work, etc.
What happened was I was in an accident and my rear right side light got damaged/broke. I think water got into it and as I was driving my dash sinal lights came on and were not flashing just lit up. After 45 seconds it went off and I could smell burning. The fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse all 4 signal lights came on and then the fuse blew again. Some times I put the fuse only 1 signal comes on then after sometime the other and the fuse blows. Every time the fuse blows there is a burning smell!
Moderator
There's no way a conventional flasher relay could cause that on its own. You've got other problems, probably involving the wiring harness, and I'd start looking at the corner that got damaged.
I think I'll just go and drop my car of at a shop and go through insurance I can't figure it out myself!
the 8th gen civics don't have a flasher relay. the flashing feature is integrated into the MICU.
yep, sounds like a messy problem. My car kept blowing my fuse for my signals and it ended up being a short in the light itself. I had an aftermarket headlight that was working for over 2.5 yrs then all of a sudden caused havoc on my electrical system in my civic. Once I changed back to oem everything worked fine.
Go through insurance? ...Originally Posted by godsd3vil
So i did what sushii sugested and went through insurance. The ECM (Electronic Control Module) is burnt. Now apparently they have said (Mechanic) that the amplifier installed in the car caused the ECM to blow. How???? The insurance wont cover it since its not accident related.
I dont understand how or why the amp would cause any of that. Im out another 1k in repairs! The amp was installed by Bestbuy and I dont think they would do such bad work on the install to cause the ECM to fry. Also the amp has got a fuse and so does the power wire of which none blew. The stereo worked fine ... the subs pounded, only the signal fuse kept blowing and the light had broken the signal area so I supposed water went in it. Any Ideas how I can get of the hook for the 1k and put it on insurance ?
Also I am thinking of getting a written letter stating that the amplifier caused the burn and go to Bestbuy. If they can prove it saying it did not ... then I file a complaint with ombudsman. Suggestions ...
I did not suggest you go through insurance.
Moderator
Electromagnetic interference can wreak havoc with electronics. If stereo wiring is routed anywhere near wiring that leads to that ECU (i.e. just about everything, nowadays), it can induce voltages in the adjacent conductor (acts like a little transformer). Shielding is critical. Even without that, spikes in power demand (caused by the current required to produce each and every big bass thump ...) can overwhelm the vehicle's power supply even if the momentary spike is not long enough to blow the fuse. This can get messy, and it's entirely plausible that the aftermarket stereo could have had something to do with failures in the vehicle's own electronics.
In the VW world, the stock radio is connected to the vehicle's on-board diagnostic CANbus network. Problem is that aftermarket radios use the same wire for something else. Very common for the OBDII port to stop working on a vehicle with an aftermarket stereo, and worse, for a long time (not sure if the issue has been fixed) the VW official dealer scan tool would blow due to a short-to-ground if they merely plugged it in to the OBDII port. Then you get angry posts on the internet wondering why the VW dealer wouldn't do a diagnostic if the vehicle had an aftermarket stereo. Well, guess what, the dealer was right. Aftermarket stereo ... K line connected (supposed to cut the wire, but no way to tell without removing the head unit and tracing wires!!!) ... not only does the OBDII port not work but the scan tool that the dealer used would blow if they merely plugged it in, so they wouldn't do it, and rightly so.
Ok let's say infact the stereo caused it, would something else get screwed apart from just the turn signals? Also would it be the bestbuy techs fault?
Nothing else can go wrong as long as you keep replacing the fuse over and over and over again. Or if you're tired of always replacing the silly blown fuses just put a higher amp fuse in it's place. The best thing that can happen is that your car will burn to the ground and then you can "put it on" insurance. Isn't that great?
Do they have a capacitor for the amp?
Did u change battery size?
Resident Loudmouth
what size engine..??
Service and Repair
Combination Light Switch Test/Replacement
- Remove the dashboard lower cover. See: Body and Frame\Interior Moulding / Trim\Dashboard / Instrument Panel\Service and Repair\Removal and Replacement\Drivers Dashboard Lower Cover Removal/Installation
- Remove the steering column covers. See: Steering and Suspension\Steering\Steering Column\Service and Repair\Removal and Replacement\Steering Column Removal and Installation
- Disconnect the 12P connector (A) from the combination light switch (B).
- Remove the two screws, then slide out the combination light switch.
- Inspect the connector terminals to be sure they are all making good contact.
- If the terminals are bent, loose or corroded, repair them as necessary, and recheck the system.
- If the terminals look OK, check for continuity between the terminals in each switch position according to the tables.
- If the continuity is not as specified, replace the switch.
Engine size 1.8... No capacitor stock battery. It's just 2 12" subs with a mono block amp. My amp has a fuse and so dies the power wire. In the accident my taillight (signal part) was broken. The only thing shirt was the signal light. The only blown fuse was a 10amp hazard light fuse. The stereo played the subs worked, the headlights etc everything worked... Still amp caused it???
I always install capacitors. It reduces the strain on your electrical system. I would suggest installing one. Plus you will get better bass output as the voltage is more consistant. I have had one installed on my last few cars. I run 2 12's as well.
Where did they get the switched signal wire for the amp relay? Turn signals maybe? If it shorts, amp stays powered on even when radio is off, then who knows...?
There is no planet B.
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