Requirements:
- 05 R6 or 06-09 R6S
- POWER COMMANDER! with a special map for use with slide stops (or I suppose if you're using AutoTune it'll do it for ya)!!

These two maps were available from Graves at some point in the past (RIGHT CLICK, SAVE TARGET AS):
GRAVES.R6.03.P.SS.PR.ST - Full Graves Exhaust + Graves Slide Stop Kit
and
GRAVES.R6.03.P.SS.PR !!RACE USE ONLY!! Full Graves Exhaust, Graves Slide Stop Kit
*Note: If your bike has a rough idle after loading either of the above maps, adjust the 0% column from 0 RPM to 2250 RPM with a different number until your idle is smooth.

- Slide Stop Install Instructions! Also archived HERE in case that link dies.

Apparently this won't work on 03 and 04 R6's because they have a low fuel pressure problem on the fuel rail when you do this. Graves sells a fuel pressure booster (looks a like a washer? lol) that apparently fixes the problem.

Graves wants $75 for their 4 pieces of aluminum pipe (in case anyone wants to make it out of aluminum pipe, 1.5" NPS SCH 30 x 38mm long is what Graves uses) and after reading the Turbo R6 project thread I decided I'd make some slide stops myself! I mean if they're holding up on that crazy beast, they'll damn sure hold up on mine!

Supplies:

4 x 1.25" CPVC Couplings (*NOTE: "common" PVC is not gasoline recommended):


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Tools:

- Something that can measure length ACCURATELY, micrometer, etc.
- A saw, preferably one that can cut straight (to cut the couplings down to 39/38mm in length).
- Dremmel or file or be creative (to remove part of the "lip" inside the couplings).
- Phillips #2 screw driver BIT (to have fun removing the screws from the slide caps!)
- A bench grinder works great for beveling the edges but I guess that's optional.

Instructions:

Ok, to make the slide stops it's pretty damn easy. If you're going to bevel the edges I would cut the couplings down to 39mm, if not cut it down to 38mm.


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After you've cut them to the desierd length you need to remove part of the lip that's inside the coupling. Make sure you get rid of it right flush to the wall of the coupling. The slide rail is a super tight fit so if you leave any material there, it wont. You need to remove two chunks (opposite eachother) or you can remove the whole damn ring if you want.


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Now you can do a test fit of the stock slide rail! You want to make sure that it goes all the way in, until the coupling is hard against the rubber boot base (and totally flush/level!).


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If the coupling snugs right up against the boot base then go ahead and bevel the edges (if you cut your coupling to 39mm). The reason why I beveled the edges is two fold. 1, it allows the coupling to sit perfectly flush against the slide stop housing, and 2, it allows the boot to sit naturally instead of bending itself over the edge of the coupling and throwing off the length of the boot and the alignment when you try and put it back in the throttle body!


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Repeat the process three more times so you have four in total.


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Now you can install them back in the throttle body! Make sure the coupling is tight against the boot base before inserting it into the throttle body. MAKE SURE TO PUT THE SPRING BACK IN WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE IT!

Remember, the SHORTER your slide stop is the more the slide protrudes into the throttle body opening. The longer the slide stop is the more tucked away the slide will be.

I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I wanted my slides to be totally flush with the throttle body wall, not tucked in, not protruding. I used my grinder and took little bit by little bit off my 39mm completed units until the slide was 100% flush with the throttle body wall


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Here is a pic BEFORE the slide stops are installed (the way the bike comes from the factory):


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And here is what it should look like if you've done everything correctly


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She idles a little lower than before, about 150rpm less, has a super nice deep growl at idle, AND when you roll on it! YOUTUBE VID!! If you've got good speakers and/or a subwoofer crank it up!


LICK FOR YOUTUBE VID!!

I think that's it!?

Twist it and rip it!

-Jamie M.