Transcontinental ride (July 1, 2011)

[Vlad]

Los Alamos, New Mexico to Denver, Colorado

Heading towards Denver. Several interesting places to see on that route, don't know how far I'll get. I'll miss Texas and many interesting places in the South, but it's time to point the front wheel towards Toronto. After Colorado it looks mostly boring prairie, but I'll make it interesting either by detours or doing an Iron Butt Saddle Sore 1,000 (1,600Km in 24 hours).

Leaving Los Alamos. Before mentioned official buildings, checkpoints, cryptic signs like "Tech area 16", etc. are all indicators of serious things going on here.


What is this? Afganistan?




The burned forest that I noticed yesterday but thought it was a control burn looks more serious today. Yes, that's my helmet on the top rack.


All interesting locations around Los Alamos are closed due to the recent big forest fire. Park rangers in Bandelier National Monument tell me they are bracing for flash floods now. Indeed, that's what their web site says too:

The Las Conchas Fire, which began on June 26, has burned over 50% of the park's landscape and has left Frijoles Canyon, where the visitor center and main sites are located, subject to flash flooding. There goes my hope of seeing Anasazi Indian pueblo. That gives me more time to enjoy the fine roads in the area though.




A great ride through the Rio Grande Gorge towards Taos.


Got waved at by the local cop in Taos Pueblo. Interesting how simple gestures like that can make one's day. Somebody else would tell me to move because I was stopped in the obvious no stopping zone. It would be nice to stop here for a while, the whole place has very inviting atmosphere. New Mexico really reminds me of Mexico, only somewhat richer and with better cars.


I continue on through Carson National Forest, a great twisty road through a canyon to Taos Valley Ski village.


On my way back, a stop in Aroyo Seco for an excellent ice cream lunch

So lively and colourful.


38 through Carson NF and over Bobcat pass (9820ft) was an absolute delight.
64 from Eagle nest to Cimarron almost as good.



Helmet is taking the day off, this is real freedom. Strong smell of pine throughout the day brings
back memories of Mediterranean holidays. A pit stop, then on the shortest (which is usually most entertaining) route to Colorado Springs.



Well, it wasn't all that entertaining, but so be it - I had a great day so far. Welcome to ColoUrado

Sonic, America's drive-in, Castle Rock, CO, USA
Got suddenly very hungry so decided to try this joint. Eating fast food for
the first time on this trip. It is fast and it is tasty, must be very
unhealthy

I25 is terribly monotonous. I was starting to fall asleep so I pulled over for a power nap at the site of the Ludlow Massacre . Shady and quiet, there was no one there but me and Suzy B. The nap lasted only about 10 minutes because some people showed up, but it did the job - I was fully alert for the rest of the day.

Another heat wave

The temperatures throughout the day were very pleasant, between 27 and 35, until some time before Pueblo. From there all the way to Colorado Springs it was hovering just below 40. This time, however, I didn't even think about the cooling bandana or the vest and remained zipped up to the chin. I'm seriously getting used to heat, something I never imagined could happen. I also established the habit to fill my hydration pack with ice every time I get gas. All gas stations have those machines for coke/lemonade that also spit ice. I always ask if I can use them and was never refused. That helped me cope with heat big time because my water was always ice cold and within easy reach (I keep the hydration pack in the tank bag).



Not heading home just yet, at least not straight home. There's apparently quite a bit of flooding along the straight-to-home route and I may end up being delayed anyway, so I decided to head North towards South Dakota (Black Hills were great, no harm in visiting them again). From there, depending on time, I may go over Lake Superior or through Sarnia back to Toronto.

Sleeping around Denver.

Total distance traveled: 723Km
Moving average speed: 92Km/h
Time on the move: 07:52

[Vlad]

Denver, Colorado to Sturgis, South Dakota

I25 North from Denver tried to bore me to death and put me to sleep again,
it's so monotonous. Stopped in Laramie for a power nap in a nice and shaded
rest area (35 in the shade). Next stop will be lunch somewhere after I get off this
freakin' interstate.



The second road hazard I was afraid of on this trip - "tar snakes". In this heat they are so slick that they may as well be made of oil. Not much an issue in the straights, but watch out for the squirmy buggers in corners...


After 400Km of I25 and a stretch of a two-lane that runs parallel to the railroad, a manly lunch in Three Sisters Truck Stop in little prairie town of Manville, Wyoming. Interesting joint, friendly locals and excellent food.

That was a mean stake sandwich!

It's very hot again (37+).

I passed a few very big freight trains recently, four locomotives and hundreds of
cars. I wave and honk my horn when I can and they HONK back

New heat record - 47. Edgemont, South Dakota. It's so hot I think my tires are going to melt.

My perseverance in face of heat exhaustion and sheer boredom was finally and handsomely rewarded when I entered Buffalo Gap National Grasslands (they couldn't call it "National Forest" because there are no trees as far as the eye can see ). Scenery gradually but surely changed for the better and the temperature fell down by ten degrees (sounds a lot, but that's still 37 ). Once I entered the Custer State Park it seemed like all things wild came out to play:

Enjoying the awesome scenery, beautiful sunset and all the animals on and by the road slowed me down considerably. At dusk I decided to skip the rest of the twisties via Deadwood and take the fastest route to Sturgis.

Tomorrow heading towards Thunder Bay taking a hopefully interesting but not too slow route.

Sleeping in Sturgis, for the second time on this trip.


Total distance traveled: 784Km
Moving average speed: 103Km/h
Time on the move: 07:36

[Vlad]

Sturgis, South Dakota to Minneapolis, Minnesota

44 from Rapid City through Badlands National park is a good opportunity to set the fastest comfortable cruising speed. I start at 140 and soon settle between 160 and 180. It's just under 40 degrees here and I'm riding without the helmet. There are very few insects out here and they are small, but man does a butterfly sting when it hits you on the cheek at 180! I'm wearing good eye protection though, I'm not *that* crazy

Crazy looking though . This picture is proof that you don't have to look good to have a time of your life. My cheeks are sore from all that "wind massage". I'm thinking of wearing one of those Venetian masks next time...


Passed a cop going in the opposite direction. Slowed down and kept looking in the mirror in case he comes after me. He didn't. I guess he figured I'd be out of the state by the time he catches up, or at least out of his jurisdiction . Of course, there's always a possibility that they don't care about people speeding through unpopulated areas with no road hazards whatsoever.

Having a late breakfast in Cedar Pass Lodge in Badlands. This is the view I enjoyed, along with a delicious buffalo burger and a good cold beer:

Badlands are as fascinating the second time around.

If they manage to bite me through all the layers of leather, canvas, ballistic nylon and CE approved armor, so be it!

Crossed into Central Time zone. Passed a cop sitting at the median at 140+, no cherries. Long live South
Dakota!

Pit stop in Murdo. Refilled my hydration pack with ice. It's constantly above 40 for the last three hours. Oil temperature going up to 120 degrees, even at high speed. I'm not worried, I'll collapse much sooner than Suzy B will. No symptoms of any trouble - she purrs like a cat or roars like a lion at the twist of the wrist.

Remember what I wrote about getting used to the heat? Forget it! It's been between 40 and 44 all day. Strong wind gusts from the south on I90 are blowing me over to the left lane all the time. What's worse, those gusts are overheated too - I swear no less than 10 degrees hotter! It's not like a hair dryer on high, it's like one of those heat guns - it almost hurts how hot it is. Passing trucks at 150 is a scary affair. Terrible buffeting behind and on the side, topped with an amplified gust to the left as I pass the front of the truck. It
blew me almost to the left shoulder once, but I learned the trick how to do it safely. Why at 150, you ask? Because trucks are going 130 and I'm not going to ride next to them a second longer than absolutely necessary.



Crossed the Missouri river. Got chilled for a few seconds, just enough to make the subsequent heat even more brutal. I wish I could take a dip... Decided to press on as far as I can today, hoping to eventually get out of this crematorium.

Crossed into Minnesota. Two rest areas in a row closed. 200Km is too much to ride without a break in this heat (still constantly over 40, up to 44). Entered the second rest area ignoring the sign that says "Road closed". Screw it, gotta take a power nap in the shade. The bike almost tipped over as the kickstand sank into the melted asphalt. I caught it on time - it would be fun trying to pick it up with the kickstand acting as an anchor and with no hope of anyone passing by to help (it's a closed road, remember?). I later found out that all rest areas along my way were closed. A strike?



700Km so far today, all in terrible heat, at high speed and with a lot of side wind gusts. Have to put the helmet on or my head will explode . Neither riding with with nor without the helmet is good for all conditions and every ride, especially if you are riding long distance. You get fatigued either way, so I chose to alternate having in mind benefits and risks of riding helmet(less). Life is not an exercise in risk avoidance but rather one of taking calculated risks - I wouldn't be on two wheels if I thought otherwise. Thankfully the state of Minnesota (as well as many other US states) allows me to make my own choice.

Except for the brief but intense beauty of Badlands National Park and it's roads this was a day of almost 1,100Km of superslab at over 40 degrees. I'm glad that's over, tomorrow should be more interesting, at least from Duluth on. Temperatures should be more comfortable too.

Got a weird tan from riding all day without a helmet, with goggles and inverted baseball cap. Have to work on it tomorrow before I cross the border into the nanny state of Canookistan.

Another personal record was set today. My highest ever moving average speed - 120Km/h. It's not likely that I will ever break this one on any trip longer than a couple of hundred Km.

Sleeping at the outskirts of Minneapolis. No time to take a dip in the hotel pool, too tired. My gear, especially pants, is getting pretty stinky. I won't wash it now. It takes too much time and I'll be home in a few days anyway. it's not like I'll be attending any dinner parties either.

Total distance traveled: 1098Km
Moving average speed: 120Km/h
Time on the move: 09:09

[Vlad]

Minneapolis, Minnesota to Nipigon, Ontario

Barnum, Minnesota. Just a pit stop, but people are nice and the ice cream refreshing. 35 in the shade is still hot, but quite bearable compared to yesterday. I'd still love a dip in a river/lake though. Should cool down once I get to the shores of Lake Superior (soon).

After Duluth, a pleasant ride hugging the North shore of Lake Superior.







State parks, rest areas, rivers, resorts, cliffs, waterfalls, beaches. Many places to see and enjoy. Unfortunately all state run facilities are closed due to a pissing contest about the state budget in Minnesota legislature . For the first time in days the temperature dipped below 30. Refreshing indeed, even chilly at times.

Stop at Gunnar's place in Grand Marais for a Philly Steak Sandwich. Will be in Canada soon.

As I entered Canada (no hassle at the border, a pleasant chat with the guard actually) I was greeted with familiar sights. First, a sign for Eastern Time Zone - no more guesswork what time it is. Then, Canada geese, in a strange formation by the road, like they are waiting in line to cross the border . Next, a quick succession of road signs telling me how anal this country is and how bad they are going to ***k me if I do such heinous acts as speeding 50 over, even before I ever stand in front of a judge (no mention of additional, prolonged and heavy fornication by the insurance companies). No cell phones, no riding without the DOT approved helmet (the fact that Department Of Transportation is US does not bother anyone), no pit-bull terriers, no ****! Anyway, I'm glad to be back!

Suzy B was long overdue for an oil/filter change so she got a quick guerrilla-style transfusion in the Thunder Bay Canadian Tire parking lot. I'm getting good at this, it took me less than half an hour, including buying oil/filter/pan/wrench. I left them the $4 oil drain pan as a token of my appreciation for not chasing me out of the lot. A police cruiser was parked near by and later passed by me like I wasn't there. I guess with Ontario plates no one knows that I'm not local.



just as I was entering Nipigon for the night the locals at the gas station inform me about the severe thunderstorm and tornado warning for the area. The rain has just started and my motel is just a couple of kilometers away, so I consider myself lucky to avoid it. No luck though, still got soaked by the time I entered my room. I hope it will stop by the morning, but it's raining cats and dogs now.



Total distance traveled: 634Km
Moving average speed: 98Km/h
Time on the move: 06:29

[Vlad]

Nipigon, Ontario to Toronto, Ontario

The motel owner woke me up in the middle of the night and scared the **** out of me. He's lucky I didn't bear-spray him because he yanked at my doorknob without even bothering to knock or say anything. Apparently moron gave me the wrong room. What an idiot! I'm getting ready to give him a piece of my mind as I check out. Northland Motel in Nipigon, just in case you come this way...

The weather looks terrible through the window but the forecast is good everywhere on my route to Toronto. Getting ready to roll ASAP.

CORRECTION: The idiot was me. I thought I was getting room 106 while the key and my bill clearly stated 108. To my defense, I was tired and soaking wet and the marking on the key wasn't very clear to read in the rain at night. I managed to open the room with the wrong key because it was left unlocked for late guests. I apologized to the manager and thanked goodness I didn't bear-spray him (blush).

Sunny start, but then...


Forecast my *ss! Thick fog, drizzle and rain at 15 degrees all the way to Marathon, and it doesn't seem to be letting up. Determined to sleep in my own bed tonight no matter what. The gas station attendant doesn't believe me when I say I'll be in Toronto tonight (~1300Km). He says "How are you going to get that far when you can't see farther than that lamp post?". Frankly, I'm not sure either.



Lunch in D&W in White River. Weather is clearing and warming up, thank FSM.



Blind River. Food and fuel. It's getting damn hot again and I wear silk longjohns over
bicycle shorts, under Carhartts double front dungarees . Too lazy to strip now, but may have to do it later.





The road got somewhat less interesting after Sault Ste. Marie and turned into the relatively boring highway after Sudbury. Kept rolling until I almost ran out of gas at 340km on the tank and just 150Km from Toronto. Fortunately found the gas station on time, but was running on fumes. Planning gas stops can sometimes be such a challenge...

Home at last around 23:00, after 15.5 hours on the road.

Total distance traveled: 1291Km
Moving average speed: 103Km/h
Time on the move: 12:34

[Vlad]

The GPS says 15,035Km for the entire trip, and what a trip it was!

I've ridden so many beautiful roads and seen so many wonderful places in these three weeks that I feel I already forgot half of them. The impressions and experiences kept piling up in such a short order and so intensely that it was sometimes hard to remember all that happened on the same day. To paraphrase the late great Burt Munro, I lived more in these three weeks than most people do in a lifetime.

Go West my boy, go West!


Many people asked me what was the best place I visited, the best road I've ridden, etc. Such a ranking would be meaningless and inevitably faulty, but let's just say that 90% of the best roads I've ever ridden and the most beautiful places I've ever seen were all packed in these 15,000km. There lied my biggest challenge and the hardest part - deciding whether to soak up the scenery or enjoy a spirited ride. Doing both at the same time would likely be deadly and there was no time to take all those wonderful roads twice .

Even the worst, like the terrible heat I endured for hundreds of kilometers over several days (more than five over 40, two over 45), was the experience I will cherish and remember for the rest of my life. Ditto with shaking like a leaf at 9 degrees and rain for 400Km through Canadian Rockies. All part of a wonderful experience.

I came back home no worse for the wear, actually in much better physical and psychological shape than I was when I left. I lost over 5Kg (average of 250g a day), have no aches or pains and feel like my posture has improved, believe it or not. Sore butt was no issue at all, thanks likely to the Corbin seat. I only had a little discomfort behind my left shoulder blade, but that was taken care of by some stretching and warming cream my friend Paul gave me before the trip.

The bike performed marvelously throughout the trip and never gave me even a hint of trouble. It ran flawlessly at all altitudes, from -85m to 2500m, at all temperatures, from 7 to 47 and all humidity levels, from 0% to 90%. I wore a chain that was already half-life and changed the oil twice, but that's just regular maintenance. The Shinko Raven 009 tires never gave me a slip and the rear lasted 16,000Km. At less than half the price of Michelin Pilot Road III this is the best price/performance ratio I've ever seen (my last MPRII rear lasted 18,000Km). Suzy B now has 130,000Km on the odometer and she has a few battle scars, but functions like a well made clock and doesn't show any sign of giving up. If I only hammers were that reliable...

[Vlad]

1. I can do and endure much, MUCH more than I ever dreamed of. My confidence took a huge boost. I found that the limiting factor in many cases is my bike - not me.

2. Most miserable day on a bike beats the best day in a car any time. Folks in air conditioned cages have no idea what they are missing at 47 degrees.

3. Extreme heat is bearable when humidity is low. I've established three temperature categories - up to 35, between 35 and 45 and above 45. As long as I'm moving and properly vented I'm fine up to 35 or so without any special measures. From 35 to 45 some extra help in the form of cooling vest or at least a cooling bandana may be necessary (they are too cold for temperatures lower than 35). Above 45 all bets are off and I have to rely on what my body tells me with regards of how much it can take. Drink a lot of cold water frequently and stop to rest more often than usual. Resist the urge to strip down to a T shirt - it doesn't help at all when the air temperature is higher than body temperature, plus you'll get sunburn. Dress up completely and close all vents except ones that provide air flow over the cooling vest (close them all if not wearing a cooling vest). In general, heavy and thick clothing is better than thin and light (socks are an excellent example). Absolutely no cotton underwear - use microfiber, Dupont CoolMax, etc. Wool should be good too, but I found no reason to experiment with it. Getting acclimatized, i.e. getting your body used to high heat over several days, goes a long way towards a comfortable and safe ride in extremely high temperatures.

4. Tipping my head down in the rain does a much better job at removing water from my visor than turning my head left-right. It's also easier and safer.

5. You can carry whatever you think you'll need on the bike. I didn't have to leave anything behind due to a lack of space. However, I didn't need and never even unpacked at least one fourth of the stuff I brought with me. For example, no matter how long the trip is it makes no sense to bring more than seven days worth of underwear. If it's a serious ride you won't be going to dinner parties and even if you do no one will expect you to dress up, so a pair of jeans, T shirts and comfortable light shoes you can ride in if need be are fine.

6. Bring a full toolkit. You may think you won't need the wrench for your rear axle, but trust me, you'll be adjusting your chain at least once. The tools in the toolkit should be of highest quality, so feel free to throw away that junk that came with the bike.

7. Bring the tire plug kit and compressor. You probably won't need them, but if you do you'll be very glad you bought them.

8. Food. Don't carry anything that can't stand the pressure, heat or humidity or needs to be cooked or otherwise prepared. Power bars are a good idea. Even brown sugar in those little paper bags comes in very handy when the hunger hits you unexpectedly. Everything else you can buy in any supermarket or even at the gas station.

9. Drink. Nothing beats ice cold water at 40 degrees. Gatorade is OK too, but don't pour it in your hydration pack. Stay away from anything with caffeine in it, like so called energy drinks and coffee. The goal is for your gas tank to limit your range, not your bladder. Beer has a similar effect, plus it's alcohol and it will make you thirsty, so leave it for the end of the day.

10. Remember that you'll cover more distance in a couple of weeks than most people do in a year and plan regular maintenance accordingly.

Spraying the chain once a day is not enough when the day is more than 1,000Km long, starts with a bike covered in morning dew and continues through a lot of dust and possibly rain as well. Chain maintenance is also a PITA when the bike is loaded with gear and you can't prop it on the center stand by yourself without taking one or both side cases off.

Oil change intervals can be comfortably extended by at least 30%, but you'll still need to do it sometime. The less time you spend on it the better, so bring the essential tools and do it yourself wherever/whenever is most convenient. I have the oil filter adapter so good filters are easily available everywhere car parts are sold. I use car/diesel oil so that's even easier to acquire. I need no tools to drain the oil thanks to Fumoto valve. Drain pans are a few bucks a piece, so I just leave them at the scene of the crime. Funnels can be made from any piece of cardboard and I'm fine without them too. A roll of paper towels, rubber gloves and Bob's your uncle. If the filter won't come off by hand (very rare in my case since I only tighten them by hand), stick a screwdriver through it.