Transcontinental ride (July 1, 2011)

[Vlad]

Davis, California to Furnace Creek, California

After buying some tools and doing a quick chain adjust/lube I"m on my way to Death Valley through Yosemite.

Some nice scenery in this part of California:




Road through Yosemite over Tioga pass is very entertaining and surrounded by beautiful scenery. It's a bit overcrowded by tourists, but I use that as an excuse to take it easy and soak up the sights.



Lakes, forests, whole mountains made of a single monolith rock...






Inyo National Forest and Mammoth Lakes are just as enchanting.




A ride south on 395 from Bishop was mostly straight, but it provided some magnificent views of Sierra Nevada mountains on the right. A stop in Lone Pine to get last cheap gas (It's much more expensive in Death Valley), refresh and get ready for descent into the furnace. I'm still in the mountains (Lone Pine is at 1,136m, I'm descending to -85), but it's 37 degrees already. Cooling vest soaked, hydration pack filled with ice and I had on down.

As I pass by the entrance to Death Valley NP, my MP3 player starts playing the next random picked tune from my library - AC/DC "Hells Bells". This is way too cheesy I think and shut it off. I'll let the desert sing it's own song to me. The player remained silent for the next couple of days. One of the most beautifull things in Death Valley is it's silence throughout the day and in every corner. You can almost hear your own heartbeat.

Only about 35 degrees at Panamint Springs. I'm somewhat disappointed. What happened to the infamous Death Valley heat?

This section of 190 is twisty and steep.


Then, a sign that says I'm at sea level. No water anywhere, and still going down. Soon, another sign, much more serious.


Right after Stovepipe Wells (where the above sign is) it was like someone turned on a furnace - it went to
40 in just a few minutes and then continued to climb all the way to 44.
Cooling vest did the job well and I was pretty comfortable. All strapped
and wrapped so I don't get overheated by the hot air blowing at me at 130.
Trust me, you don't want to open your visor at that heat, it would dry bake your face off!

Mesquite Flats sand dunes


The hottest I ever experienced, let alone rode in.


Booked the night at Furnace creek ranch at a ridiculous price (they were booked solid, it's like a masochist convention down here ) and went straight to Dante's View to catch the sunset. It didn't disappoint,
gorgeous as only desert sunsets can be. That white surface 1700m below me is the salt of Badwater Basin.






I went straight to dinner in full gear. It never fails to attract attention when I appear in
ballistic nylon black jacket, black double front dungaree pants, motorcycle
boots, all zipped up to my chin... at 40 in the shade )

What they don't realize is that I'm quite comfy in my cooling vest and
guaranteed not to get sunburn .

My waiter, one of ten in the restaurant, sounded a little Slavic. I asked him where he's from and guess what, Ivan is from Serbia. I wonder what are the odds...

A quick dip in the refreshing spring-fed 28 degree pool and I'm good to sleep like a log.


Oh yes, the roads! Beautiful and well paved but challenging. No pushing the
limits out here, just a fast cruise in the flats and easy leaning in the
twisties. Gotta keep speed to keep cool though .

A perfect top speed run. Too bad the fully loaded Bandit wouldn't go much past 200 without floating the front tire off the ground.


I'm thinking of hanging around in the Valley all day tomorrow and book a place to

sleep just outside. I wish I could stay longer, I enjoy this wicked place so much. The heat, albeit quite brutal, beats being rained on at 9 degrees hands down.

Total distance traveled: 820Km
Moving average speed: 94Km/h
Time on the move: 08:44

[Vlad]

Death Valley, California to Beatty, Nevada

Roads in Death Valley are well maintained and entertaining. The fact that flash floods often force a premature rebuild of pretty long stretches helps .



Early morning ride to Badwater. Sunrises are as enchanting as sunsets, if you can get up that early. It's 7AM and it's already 35.

It's called Badwater because there is always water there, but it's saltier than sea water so it's unusable for drinking.


I'm in the lowest, driest and hottest place on the western hemisphere in the middle of the summer and on my own bike. One dream fulfilled and my "man card" extended for a few years .

These two figures are participants in the Badwater Ultramarathon. And people say I'm crazy


Couldn't resist the temptation to ride out on the salt, although no vehicles are allowed.


Last time I was here it was mid-December and I was sad I wasn't on a bike.


Artist drive, just like everything else in DV, is as beautiful as I remember. The intense heat
just adds the real element to the experience - beautiful but deadly at the
same time.



With still a couple of hours to kill before I have to vacate my fancy but
pricey digs, I'm taking another dip in the spring-fed pool. So relaxing and
refreshing, I don't want to leave. Had a friendly chat with a nice family
from Connecticut. One of their three sons fished my room card when I lost it
diving in the pool last night . Also met one of the two guys from the picture above (Badwater Ultra-marathon).


Mustard Canyon is as entertaining as I remember, but the loose gravel makes it a challenging ride. Luckily I know it's not very long.


Heading to Panamint mountains to visit Agureberry point (been there
in the winter and it was awesome). But first a minor detour to Panamint
Springs for lunch. As I climb up the mountains 37 degrees is quite
refreshing compared to 40+ in the valley and totally comfortable, 34 a bit
chilly and 30 definitely COLD. If I didn't stop for lunch I'd have to pull
over to get the cooling vest off, it's really cold at anything below 35 or
so.


Panamint Springs restaurant.


The ride to Agureberry Point was truly unforgettable. The last 6 miles is
gravel, or what passes as a well groomed road in Death Valley. It started
innocently enough, straight, well packed and with stretches of washboard
deep enough to rattle one's fillings out. An SUV passes the other way, the
entire family in it shaking their heads when they saw me. Then it gets
tougher, narrower, twistier, looser and in places with rocks big and sharp
enough to shred a tire. For the first time on this trip I'm questioning my
sanity, but keep going. One sharp rock is all it takes to leave me stranded
in the middle of nowhere, or worse. Turning around is not an option - the
road is too narrow and the chances of dropping the bike or loosing it down
a cliff too high. Who am I kidding, I wouldn't turn back no matter what.





White knuckled and in cold sweat I arrive at the top. It's every bit as
beautiful as I remember - the best view of the DV I know of. Windy and very
mild, visibility unlimited. Lonely though. Very lonely and very quiet.The ride down was hard only for the first quarter or so, getting
progressively easier as I gained confidence knowing what to expect. The
last time I was here it was in a 4WD and there was a foot of virgin snow
covering the entire road.








A short hop to Eureka mine to check the ruins and back on asphalt again.


Isn't the desert beautiful?


As I approached Stovepipe Wells again it started to heat up, big time. The
same as yesterday, only much worse. As soon as I descended below sea level
it was like someone flipped a switch. Up to 46 it went in no time at all.
Now that's some deadly serious heat, I have to tell you. Fortunately it
didn't last long since I climbed up Daylight Pass (relatively short but
perfect pavement and very nice sweepers under the Corkscrew Peak) towards
Beatty. The ghost town of Rhyolite is on my way.



Got the room early, totally drained from the heat. Shower, then a ride
"downtown" for ice cream dinner in the Death Valley Nut and Candy Co. (very
good ice cream).

Trying to figure out where to go tomorrow and it's really hard. I thought
Bonneville, but I'm not so sure now - seems too far up North. Man, picking
the route is hard, even when you do it badly like me...

Total distance traveled: 333Km
Moving average speed: 76Km/h
Time on the move: 04:24

[Vlad]

Beatty, Nevada to Flagstaff, Arizona

After a good look at the map last night decided to skip Bonneville, it's too far North. Going past Vegas towards Grand Canyon and Petrified Forest, than New Mexico, Northern Texas... It seems like a more direct and more interesting route home. We'll see, planning day by day only.

Had a good night sleep in Beatty, trying to move as early as possible. Coffee and breakfast will be taken on the road. My "Molson muscle" is starting to shrink and pants are feeling baggy .

I95 is pretty straight and going through mostly flat desert, but a few interesting things were spotted.

First, a sign that says "Prison area. Hitchhiking prohibited". Then, a sign for Cold Creeek prison complex and a sight of it's walls, barb wire and watchtowers. This place is in the middle of hot, barren desert and the only things cold about it is it's name and purpose.

Next, a new Fiat 500 passing by. Cool, I didn't know they sell them in US. Brings back memories of my childhood when old "Ficha" was considered a national vehicle. Soon after, a convoy of five of them? I guess they are testing them in summer desert environment...

Straight and featureless road also provides an option for some camera manipulation that's too risky in the twisties.


On my way to Las Vegas on I95, I pass by the Nevada Test Range, better known as the home of "Area 51".


You know you're in Nevada when every gas station has slot machines.


Since I'm bypassing Vegas (been there, done that, got a timeshare offer) I'm going through Red Rock Canyon. Amazing visitor's center, great scenery, twisty road, lots of tourists going 20Km/h and stopping every 20m.





Boulder City is HOT! (36) A stop for lunch in Subway. Footlong Philly is delicious, my
first meal since the ice cream last night. Just wasn't hungry enough to
stop. A beer would be great, but I'll settle for a huge cold lemonade.

Lake Mead has a out-worldly appearance to me. So much water surrounded by the desert dry as a bone looks so unnatural. It isn't natural - it's an artificial lake that wouldn't be there if it wasn't for the Hoover Dam.


Hoover Dam was nice (I took a few dam pictures ), but requires more time to explore. Strong cross wind on the bypass bridge and all the way to Kingman. Heat too, just shy of 40.


It's read "Motorcycle parking" in Vlad's


Over to Arizona, hop on Route 66 from Kingman to Seligman. Same speed limit as I40, but way less
traffic and better scenery.


Grand Canyon at sunset is beautiful as ever, although the road to there (64) was nothing special. Been there, done that. Next time I see the Grand Canyon it will be at least for a week - this is just teasing me too much.



Earlier today, on Route 66 in Selingman I met a gentleman who used to live in Hamilton. He warned me about riding in this area at dusk/night because a lot of elk roaming the highways and byways, especially I40 towards Flagstaff. I said I've never had a close encounter with wildlife except for the occasional bird so I think I'm either crazy lucky, my bike produces noise that scares animals or my deer whistles really work. He said he'd seen those deer whistles on smashed cars in a junkyard, all clogged with deer hair . He also mentioned that nights get chilly in Arizona, which I acknowledged, but ignored almost instantly thinking "chilly" cannot really be that cold since the whole day was over 35.

Anyway, the deer warning was kept in mind, but Bambi decided to stay out my way through three hours of the dusk/night riding. I only saw one whole family of elk about 50m from the road in the vicinity of Grand Canyon. The whole return was done at pretty high speed and without incidents.

The other warning materialized way worse than I could have imagined. As soon as the sun went down the temperature started to drop. By the time I was back on I40 it was very chilly 14 degrees! The last 50Km of this 900Km day were done shaking like a leaf. It took me a whole hour in the shower to thaw - I was chilled to the bones. This makes today the day of the largest temperature difference on this trip - the whopping 26 degrees. From 40 in Boulder City to 14 in Flagstaff, from wearing the cooling vest and feeling still hot to bundling three layers under my jacket and turning heated grips on high and still shaking. I forgot that Flagstaff is at 2100m altitude...

The full moon on the way back was gorgeous. Bright like a lantern, I'm pretty sure I could have ridden without lights if I had to.

Tomorrow? Petrified Forest National Park and then probably Albuquerque. I keep thinking about how Buggs Bunny pronounces that )

The thick crust of salt from Death Valley is still on my exhaust headers...


Total distance traveled: 898Km
Moving average speed: 95Km/h
Time on the move: 09:26

[Vlad]

Flagstaff, Arizona to Los Alamos, New Mexico

A solid night's sleep. Woke up by myself 15 minutes before the alarm. The motel is on Route 66, how cool is that?

It's sunny and clear, but I won't know the temperature until I crawl out for breakfast. I hope it will be milder than last night, brrrrrr.

Got a plan for the next couple of days. Some cool places to see and roads to ride in Arizona and New Mexico.

One time zone closer to home since I crossed the Hoover Dam yesterday. Finally set my bike clock to local time. It was on Toronto time ever since I left, forcing me to constantly calculate. Much easier this way, as long as I know which time zone I'm in. I guess I'll have to ask the locals every now and then just to be sure. Some people have to ask for directions. I have to ask which time zone I'm in .

Barringer meteor crater is in the middle of flat Arizona desert. They used to train astronauts for moon landing here. I guess I'm a little late to that game, but I'm glad I took this little detour.




Petrified Forest and Painted Desert were a nice scenic ride.


It's not called Petrified Forest for nothing,


and it's not called Painted Desert for no reason either.


Deep in Navajo territory, time for a lunch break. Had a chance to listen to the "Code talkers" language, Interesting indeed.

The two hours to and through Albuquerque were scorching! Not only did it beat the Death Valley record by almost half a degree (46.4 on my thermometer) but it also lasted longer, much longer. Amazingly, I wasn't too bothered with it. I'm afraid I'm getting used to this s*** ). I was hoping that Los Alamos, where I decided to spend the night, is going to be more comfortable. Not only that, but the ride to there was very scenic and entertaining, from a winding road through a canyon, through Jemez Pueblo to beautiful climb up and down Jemez mountain. Made up for all that cooking on I40, and then some.



This old car marks Route 66 in New Mexico.


Entering Los Alamos was weird. The town looks sinister and serious, with government buildings and security checkpoints (I was just waved by on one). I was late at the last place that was open for dinner. They close at 9 on Saturday - what a party town . Fortunately the supermarket was still open and unlike prohibitionist Canada they sell beer there too (very poor selection though, mostly American trash like Coors and Budweiser). I took Three Cheese Rigattoni Bolognese (feeds two), a 25.5 fl. oz can of Foster's (screw those colonial measures, it looks like half a liter to me) and Vanilla pudding. Stick a fork in me, I'm done .

Total distance traveled: 748Km
Moving average speed: 100Km/h
Time on the move: 07:27

[Vlad]

Los Alamos, New Mexico to Denver, Colorado

Heading towards Denver. Several interesting places to see on that route, don't know how far I'll get. I'll miss Texas and many interesting places in the South, but it's time to point the front wheel towards Toronto. After Colorado it looks mostly boring prairie, but I'll make it interesting either by detours or doing an Iron Butt Saddle Sore 1,000 (1,600Km in 24 hours).

Leaving Los Alamos. Before mentioned official buildings, checkpoints, cryptic signs like "Tech area 16", etc. are all indicators of serious things going on here.


What is this? Afganistan?




The burned forest that I noticed yesterday but thought it was a control burn looks more serious today. Yes, that's my helmet on the top rack.


All interesting locations around Los Alamos are closed due to the recent big forest fire. Park rangers in Bandelier National Monument tell me they are bracing for flash floods now. Indeed, that's what their web site says too:

The Las Conchas Fire, which began on June 26, has burned over 50% of the park's landscape and has left Frijoles Canyon, where the visitor center and main sites are located, subject to flash flooding. There goes my hope of seeing Anasazi Indian pueblo. That gives me more time to enjoy the fine roads in the area though.




A great ride through the Rio Grande Gorge towards Taos.


Got waved at by the local cop in Taos Pueblo. Interesting how simple gestures like that can make one's day. Somebody else would tell me to move because I was stopped in the obvious no stopping zone. It would be nice to stop here for a while, the whole place has very inviting atmosphere. New Mexico really reminds me of Mexico, only somewhat richer and with better cars.


I continue on through Carson National Forest, a great twisty road through a canyon to Taos Valley Ski village.


On my way back, a stop in Aroyo Seco for an excellent ice cream lunch

So lively and colourful.


38 through Carson NF and over Bobcat pass (9820ft) was an absolute delight.
64 from Eagle nest to Cimarron almost as good.



Helmet is taking the day off, this is real freedom. Strong smell of pine throughout the day brings
back memories of Mediterranean holidays. A pit stop, then on the shortest (which is usually most entertaining) route to Colorado Springs.



Well, it wasn't all that entertaining, but so be it - I had a great day so far. Welcome to ColoUrado

Sonic, America's drive-in, Castle Rock, CO, USA
Got suddenly very hungry so decided to try this joint. Eating fast food for
the first time on this trip. It is fast and it is tasty, must be very
unhealthy

I25 is terribly monotonous. I was starting to fall asleep so I pulled over for a power nap at the site of the Ludlow Massacre . Shady and quiet, there was no one there but me and Suzy B. The nap lasted only about 10 minutes because some people showed up, but it did the job - I was fully alert for the rest of the day.

Another heat wave

The temperatures throughout the day were very pleasant, between 27 and 35, until some time before Pueblo. From there all the way to Colorado Springs it was hovering just below 40. This time, however, I didn't even think about the cooling bandana or the vest and remained zipped up to the chin. I'm seriously getting used to heat, something I never imagined could happen. I also established the habit to fill my hydration pack with ice every time I get gas. All gas stations have those machines for coke/lemonade that also spit ice. I always ask if I can use them and was never refused. That helped me cope with heat big time because my water was always ice cold and within easy reach (I keep the hydration pack in the tank bag).



Not heading home just yet, at least not straight home. There's apparently quite a bit of flooding along the straight-to-home route and I may end up being delayed anyway, so I decided to head North towards South Dakota (Black Hills were great, no harm in visiting them again). From there, depending on time, I may go over Lake Superior or through Sarnia back to Toronto.

Sleeping around Denver.

Total distance traveled: 723Km
Moving average speed: 92Km/h
Time on the move: 07:52

[Vlad]

Denver, Colorado to Sturgis, South Dakota

I25 North from Denver tried to bore me to death and put me to sleep again,
it's so monotonous. Stopped in Laramie for a power nap in a nice and shaded
rest area (35 in the shade). Next stop will be lunch somewhere after I get off this
freakin' interstate.



The second road hazard I was afraid of on this trip - "tar snakes". In this heat they are so slick that they may as well be made of oil. Not much an issue in the straights, but watch out for the squirmy buggers in corners...


After 400Km of I25 and a stretch of a two-lane that runs parallel to the railroad, a manly lunch in Three Sisters Truck Stop in little prairie town of Manville, Wyoming. Interesting joint, friendly locals and excellent food.

That was a mean stake sandwich!

It's very hot again (37+).

I passed a few very big freight trains recently, four locomotives and hundreds of
cars. I wave and honk my horn when I can and they HONK back

New heat record - 47. Edgemont, South Dakota. It's so hot I think my tires are going to melt.

My perseverance in face of heat exhaustion and sheer boredom was finally and handsomely rewarded when I entered Buffalo Gap National Grasslands (they couldn't call it "National Forest" because there are no trees as far as the eye can see ). Scenery gradually but surely changed for the better and the temperature fell down by ten degrees (sounds a lot, but that's still 37 ). Once I entered the Custer State Park it seemed like all things wild came out to play:

Enjoying the awesome scenery, beautiful sunset and all the animals on and by the road slowed me down considerably. At dusk I decided to skip the rest of the twisties via Deadwood and take the fastest route to Sturgis.

Tomorrow heading towards Thunder Bay taking a hopefully interesting but not too slow route.

Sleeping in Sturgis, for the second time on this trip.


Total distance traveled: 784Km
Moving average speed: 103Km/h
Time on the move: 07:36

[Vlad]

Sturgis, South Dakota to Minneapolis, Minnesota

44 from Rapid City through Badlands National park is a good opportunity to set the fastest comfortable cruising speed. I start at 140 and soon settle between 160 and 180. It's just under 40 degrees here and I'm riding without the helmet. There are very few insects out here and they are small, but man does a butterfly sting when it hits you on the cheek at 180! I'm wearing good eye protection though, I'm not *that* crazy

Crazy looking though . This picture is proof that you don't have to look good to have a time of your life. My cheeks are sore from all that "wind massage". I'm thinking of wearing one of those Venetian masks next time...


Passed a cop going in the opposite direction. Slowed down and kept looking in the mirror in case he comes after me. He didn't. I guess he figured I'd be out of the state by the time he catches up, or at least out of his jurisdiction . Of course, there's always a possibility that they don't care about people speeding through unpopulated areas with no road hazards whatsoever.

Having a late breakfast in Cedar Pass Lodge in Badlands. This is the view I enjoyed, along with a delicious buffalo burger and a good cold beer:

Badlands are as fascinating the second time around.

If they manage to bite me through all the layers of leather, canvas, ballistic nylon and CE approved armor, so be it!

Crossed into Central Time zone. Passed a cop sitting at the median at 140+, no cherries. Long live South
Dakota!

Pit stop in Murdo. Refilled my hydration pack with ice. It's constantly above 40 for the last three hours. Oil temperature going up to 120 degrees, even at high speed. I'm not worried, I'll collapse much sooner than Suzy B will. No symptoms of any trouble - she purrs like a cat or roars like a lion at the twist of the wrist.

Remember what I wrote about getting used to the heat? Forget it! It's been between 40 and 44 all day. Strong wind gusts from the south on I90 are blowing me over to the left lane all the time. What's worse, those gusts are overheated too - I swear no less than 10 degrees hotter! It's not like a hair dryer on high, it's like one of those heat guns - it almost hurts how hot it is. Passing trucks at 150 is a scary affair. Terrible buffeting behind and on the side, topped with an amplified gust to the left as I pass the front of the truck. It
blew me almost to the left shoulder once, but I learned the trick how to do it safely. Why at 150, you ask? Because trucks are going 130 and I'm not going to ride next to them a second longer than absolutely necessary.



Crossed the Missouri river. Got chilled for a few seconds, just enough to make the subsequent heat even more brutal. I wish I could take a dip... Decided to press on as far as I can today, hoping to eventually get out of this crematorium.

Crossed into Minnesota. Two rest areas in a row closed. 200Km is too much to ride without a break in this heat (still constantly over 40, up to 44). Entered the second rest area ignoring the sign that says "Road closed". Screw it, gotta take a power nap in the shade. The bike almost tipped over as the kickstand sank into the melted asphalt. I caught it on time - it would be fun trying to pick it up with the kickstand acting as an anchor and with no hope of anyone passing by to help (it's a closed road, remember?). I later found out that all rest areas along my way were closed. A strike?



700Km so far today, all in terrible heat, at high speed and with a lot of side wind gusts. Have to put the helmet on or my head will explode . Neither riding with with nor without the helmet is good for all conditions and every ride, especially if you are riding long distance. You get fatigued either way, so I chose to alternate having in mind benefits and risks of riding helmet(less). Life is not an exercise in risk avoidance but rather one of taking calculated risks - I wouldn't be on two wheels if I thought otherwise. Thankfully the state of Minnesota (as well as many other US states) allows me to make my own choice.

Except for the brief but intense beauty of Badlands National Park and it's roads this was a day of almost 1,100Km of superslab at over 40 degrees. I'm glad that's over, tomorrow should be more interesting, at least from Duluth on. Temperatures should be more comfortable too.

Got a weird tan from riding all day without a helmet, with goggles and inverted baseball cap. Have to work on it tomorrow before I cross the border into the nanny state of Canookistan.

Another personal record was set today. My highest ever moving average speed - 120Km/h. It's not likely that I will ever break this one on any trip longer than a couple of hundred Km.

Sleeping at the outskirts of Minneapolis. No time to take a dip in the hotel pool, too tired. My gear, especially pants, is getting pretty stinky. I won't wash it now. It takes too much time and I'll be home in a few days anyway. it's not like I'll be attending any dinner parties either.

Total distance traveled: 1098Km
Moving average speed: 120Km/h
Time on the move: 09:09