Tat2 had his done a couple months before I did mine.
Mine is in the garage on bike stands until the summer, but the vibrations at idle are reduced by 1/3 at least!
Did you do the .22 carb shim mod? It's the next best thing after the 685.
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So my bike is in the process of getting the 685 - Schnitz racing kit installed with some porting. I'm dying to know what it'll be like when done; anyone tried this kit out before? It's a 2008 KLR
Tat2 had his done a couple months before I did mine.
Mine is in the garage on bike stands until the summer, but the vibrations at idle are reduced by 1/3 at least!
Did you do the .22 carb shim mod? It's the next best thing after the 685.
Ride Reports and other drivel
'08 Suzuki DR650E
'04 Kawasaki KLR 685 (For Sale)
'05 Honda VFR800a Interceptor (SOLD)
'01 Suzuki Bandit GSF600s (what the deer left of it)
'94 Suzuki GS500E (SOLD)
MC Instructor www.LearningCurves.ca
The carb is being done too, as well as getting rid of that stupid air pump. I'm in the process of looking for some heavier front and rear springs, and then I should be done.
The vibe reduction is probably the biggest thing you'll notice. There is a little extra umph there, but that is with a butt dyno. I did mine mainly due to the oil burning issue. It's nice to have the little extra power. It's not mind blowingly more.
I just finished the majority of the break in before I had to put it away. All that is left according to the shintz sheet is no highway for me for 160km or so. I'm cool with that. The intial break in was getting tedious. Lots of engine breaking over 3 sessions with full cool downs. I was heading on quiet rural roads running up and down thru the gears a little harder each time and letting the engine do all the engine breaking I could do. And then turning around and coming home for the cool down.
Are you getting the "deep hole" issue checked while the engine is apart?
Is DSP doing your work?
Lol, yes the infamous deep hole...Found that when doing the doo hickey upgrade. Easy fix, but what a stupid mistake from the factory! I was mainly after the oil issue myself; it wasn't bad at all unless I was doing 115 - 120 kph for a length of time, or if I was doing some spirited riding. The added power won't hurt, but I'm happy with the stock power as it was.
As for the break-in, I'm lucky there. When I broke in my track bike, I just rode the concession around my in-laws, heat cycling it over and over. Seemed to work out good, and I got it done in one day. I bought the kit from DSP, but they're not doing the work. Fortunately I'm friends with a really good mechanic who is also a KLR freak looking after everything.
What's the deep hole?
Ride Reports and other drivel
'08 Suzuki DR650E
'04 Kawasaki KLR 685 (For Sale)
'05 Honda VFR800a Interceptor (SOLD)
'01 Suzuki Bandit GSF600s (what the deer left of it)
'94 Suzuki GS500E (SOLD)
MC Instructor www.LearningCurves.ca
Where the starter drive pin sits in the outer case, the hole is way to deep. Lots of info on it on klr650.net
Login Req
http://www.klr650.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67886
I have to check mine yet, though as a 208 I'm sure it has it. Didn't know about it till after I had my Doo & 685 done. I'll have to check it out & fix it in spring. I wanna check it/fix myself but I don't wanna screw something up. I just gotta do it. I have the clymer manual. I'm still a newb when it comes to mechanics. I'm saving for new springs and some Eagel mike RL-1 rear risers. I'm working on making my own side racks as well.
I would have done my break in in one day, but I spread it over 3 (100+km per day) but I could only get out for so long and the days were getting short.
Yeah my oil burning was happening anytime I was running extended over 4500 RPM on highway runs. A trip to TO & back req a top up.
+1 on the springs; I am going to do the progressives in the fork, and I think I'm leaning towards the bigger spring on the shock. I looked at doing the links, but the spring seems like the better option. They really should've sprung them heavier at the factory.
I've a Happy Trails fork brace and Progressive dual rate springs in the front. I kinda wish I had cartridge emulators up front as well.
Don't bother with the 420 Progressive if you want to ride hard off road, it doesn't like being airborne. :P
Ride Reports and other drivel
'08 Suzuki DR650E
'04 Kawasaki KLR 685 (For Sale)
'05 Honda VFR800a Interceptor (SOLD)
'01 Suzuki Bandit GSF600s (what the deer left of it)
'94 Suzuki GS500E (SOLD)
MC Instructor www.LearningCurves.ca
In that case Progressive springs are an improvement over stock. They won't bottom out on you, or not that I've found. When I had my front end rebuilt with the springs, I went up to 15wt oil, and for the first 2,500 kms I thought I'd made a huge mistake until the springs bedded in. Recently I added a bunch of preload beyond that suggested by the spacers supplied with the progressive springs, but I've not spent any time testing them as this was done around Christmas time.
You'll be happy with the Progressives, but they're not a HUGE improvement over stock. What is driving your upgrade?
Ride Reports and other drivel
'08 Suzuki DR650E
'04 Kawasaki KLR 685 (For Sale)
'05 Honda VFR800a Interceptor (SOLD)
'01 Suzuki Bandit GSF600s (what the deer left of it)
'94 Suzuki GS500E (SOLD)
MC Instructor www.LearningCurves.ca
Mostly the diving of the front end, and to carry my weight around. I haven't bottomed it out yet (that I remember). With my Katana it was one of the first things I did was a better spring more for my weight & heavier oil, it improved it.
I'm thinking the rear raising links first since my pre-load is maxed already and it sprung for less that me, not including any cargo. The back end sinks a bit to much more my liking and I'm not going to diet anytime soon. The price is right as well and easy to install. I might even just do a front fork oil change (or maybe add spacers as well?) until I can afford new springs, that is if it's an easy enough job to do just that.
So I ignored my budget limits and went with an elka shock today, as well as progressive springs for the fork. Wasn't going to do a shock, but DSP had a good deal, it was in stock, I won't tell my wife, etc, lol. Looking forward to the install
I'm officially envious. That's an awesome upgrade!
Ride Reports and other drivel
'08 Suzuki DR650E
'04 Kawasaki KLR 685 (For Sale)
'05 Honda VFR800a Interceptor (SOLD)
'01 Suzuki Bandit GSF600s (what the deer left of it)
'94 Suzuki GS500E (SOLD)
MC Instructor www.LearningCurves.ca
Well, the Killer is finally done. Just got it back; motor & suspension all ready to be broken in. I know what I'll be doing this weekend. Good thing I have a heated vest...
Have fun! Deffinately jealous of you! I'm the buddy with a truck so I'm on house moving duty... At least I get pizza and beer.
Nice, enjoy. Hopefully I will be out soon enough. I will be working on my suspension first. I was going to go with EM RL-1 risers on the rear but now I'm thinking a new spring instead as the cost is pretty close.
I still haven't decided between straight rate springs (according to weight) or progressives both with a heaver oil up front.
I ended up going with just the progressive springs, and approximately 12 weight on the oil. It's take some time to see if I need to go heavier or not, but with a slightly longer spacer for some more preload, I should be ok. I'm pretty sure Rotten Ronnie used 15 weight, but I'm too much of a wuss to ride like he does, lol.
Drop into DSP and look at the rear shock options. Les almost sold me on a set of links, but when you look at the cost of a basic elka shock (no remote reservoir), against the spring and a rebuild of your stocker, the price gets a lot more interesting. I don't remember the EXACT prices I got, but I thought I did pretty good for everything in. It certainly would not have been much cheaper to just do the spring as I had intended.
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