Id leave it full and try to plug the leak....I have the same problem, actually have one in the parts room doing the same thing...I just use silicone plugs to plug the leak...
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My bike is currently dead and tank is off, sitting on a shelf in the garage.
Problem is, it leaks slightly from the valve that feeds the main line (keep in mind it's 20 years old)....so I was thinking, I'll just empty the tank until the bike is fixed, but this might be months/all winter.....
So do I leave the gas in, add some fuel stabilizer, deal with the leak....
Or empty the tank ??? Is it gonna rust over the winter in the garage?
Id leave it full and try to plug the leak....I have the same problem, actually have one in the parts room doing the same thing...I just use silicone plugs to plug the leak...
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2006 FZ6
2005 DL1000
2005 Vulcan 500 - Sold
If the tank is stored in a temperature controlled location condensation will not happen and the tank will not rust much, even empty. I say much because if there are any breaks in the factory inner coating it may rust a little at that point (but really not much if at all).
The problem is when it is stored in an unheated garage, when the temp rises in the garage the tank will take longer to rise in temp and condensation will form on the inside of the tank rusting it. If the temp is constant (say heated garage or in a basement) no condensation!
Empty the fuel tank. It should be obvious that you don't want the sort of fire hazard that a leaking fuel tank represents when it's inside a closed space. If it's empty ... can't leak no more.
And also ... There are various treatments that can be done to coat the interior of fuel tanks to plug minor leaks and seal in the inside of the tank to stop the rusting that is almost certainly at fault for the leak. You need to drain the tank in order to apply those coatings. Add that to your winter project list. If you plan to do this, don't spray the tank with oil in the interim ... it'll stop your coating from sticking.
Your other option is to pour some 2-stroke oil into the empty tank, swish it around to ensure it coats it nicely on the inside. I'd probably then roll around the tank every now and then (once a month?). Come spring just empty it and no need to rinse - 2-stroke oil will burn nicely in the engine...
derekz
2000 VStar 650 Classic
Empty the tank. Let it sit for a few days with the cap open so vapours/fumes escape. Pull the pet cock so you can get it fixed/replaced over winter. Pour a cup of oil in it and turn it everywhich way for a few minutes so the oil covers the interior side. Close cap, tape over petcock hole, store in warm pace, put back on the spring with new pet cock. A leaky petcock could lead to hydraulic lock/bent con rods.
Rust inhibiting oil was mentioned a few times....any preference ?....just go to crappy tire and ask for "rust inhibiting oil" ?
Don't apply sealer to an old tank or even a new one. If it gets dented it's no longer a matter of just popping out the dent, as the sealer flakes off the inside and makes a mess of things. The sealer may cover over exisiting rust as well in a 20 year old tank that the etching, very toxic process by the way, misses. If the tank itself is leaking, get it fixed right. Use motor oil to seal the metal over the winter storage months. Simple, easy, effective.
go left, go right....seal, dont seal....
I appreciate the help....but the tank don't leak, the pet cock does....
So, I'm assuming emptying and coating with oil is ok...
put a piece of gas-line on the petcock & plug it
if its the valve that leaks, obviously leaving fuel in is a bad idea.
I have used engine storing fogging spray and its sat 8 yrs with no problems, but I had some. For a season i would wd40 spray or coat with oil and roll the tank around.
In spring I'd rinse with a coupe pints of high test gas (burnt up in my lawnmower) and then reinstall.
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