Tica-Tica...Tica-Tica...putt putt Dead ZX6D

[ninjanewbie]

Rotor/flywheel puller ?
Is this a must have....or can I jimmy up something ?
Manual says to get this off and out of the way to split the case...

[kneedragger88]

Screw in puller by Motion Pro can be ordered from any shop and they are about $20 not worth fooking about.

[ninjanewbie]

Am I wasting my time with this puller ???
It ain't budging....

[twostroke]

Don't use that kind of puller unless you want to replace the fly wheel. Go out and get the one ken suggested.

[ninjanewbie]

Question....
I have a "parts engine" which suffered the same fate as mine (This one spun a bearing on cylinder 2, mine cylinder 3).
Can I get either crank (which ever has less damge) re-surfaced and swap parts between the two ?

I was thinking of keeping my cylinders, but using the crank (pretty sure mine is in worse shape) and rods from the other engine....

Also wondering....If one part is resurfaced, do all the bearings need to be replaced because of balancing issues ??? Not really sure about the whole crank resurfacing process...

[frekeyguy]

its not worth salvaging that crank. you will need to send the crank off to a machine shop to get it re-done, and you'll need new bearings. which will all run around $600-$800.

for $600, you can throw in a new motor in, and sell the engine covers and clutch etc etc and make some money back.

[ninjanewbie]

Just add...got my crank out.....Oil pan is full of metal...

Is it really $600+ to get it resurfaced....damn, that seems high...

You can really see how the bearings got grinded away.

[Brian P]

Measure the affected journal for out-of-round and overall dimensions and check it for surface roughness, and check the crank for straightness with it mounted between V-blocks using a dial indicator (I've cheated by using the crankcase with only the journals at the very ends installed as a substitute for V-blocks, with the dial indicator in the middle). You need to use a precision micrometer and a precision dial indicator for this - vernier calipers are not accurate enough. There are specs in the service manual for all of these. If it passes all of the dimensional checks in the factory service manual and there are no grooves that will catch a fingernail, it can be re-used as is but if you ran the engine until it quit, there is a very high chance that the bad journal will be too far out of round. Don't forget that you will no longer be able to rely on the markings on the crankshaft for selecting the journal bearings. Fortunately, Kawasaki tells you the relationship between the tolerance zones and the size markings so that you can re-figure the bearing selection. (Yamaha doesn't.)

Don't forget also, that if there are heat markings on the affected con-rod, it's bad, and there are specs also on the con-rod big end for diameter and out-of-round that the con-rod must pass. Check EVERYthing.

There are companies that re-grind crankshafts but there are none locally that I would trust. I had an engine that I built with a reground crank from Canadian Chrome and Crankshaft (fortunately, I wasn't the one responsible for sourcing the parts, only for putting it together) that failed on the dyno before it got out on the track. The chrome-plating-followed-by-regrinding process used by all local shops works on large-diameter auto crankshafts, but on a small-diameter high-performance crank, the chrome plating flakes off and trashes the bearings. Only process that works is re-welding the journals, re-heat-treating the whole crankshaft, and re-grinding the journals. There are a few places in the States that can do it but it's gonna cost a couple bucks. The next engine that came along with an owner wanting me to rebuild it (same type of failure) I refused to do it unless they sourced me a good crankshaft that wasn't a regrind ... Stuff like this learned the hard way, only happens once ...

For that engine, by the time you're done, if the crankshaft you have now doesn't pass every dimensional check with flying colours, you are better off either just getting another engine (a good one ...) or buying a new crankshaft (if you insist on rebuilding that one).

[ninjanewbie]

Thanks for the input and comments guys.....

I'm suppose to drop off both cranks to a friend who personally knows some one who works @ a machine shop that does crank work....I'm not expecting good news, but I got nothing to loose.

Also left a msg with Zeno Cycle about an engine...haven't heard back...

Wondering where to hold the funeral...details, details...

[ninjanewbie]

Question.....

Looking at the following:
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID...oup/Crankshaft


If I wanted to get some new bearings for the connecting rods....
what's with the colors ???
Diff sizes ???

13034F 13034-1067 BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BLUE
13034G 13034-1068 BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BLACK
13034H 13034-1069 BUSHING,CONNECTING ROD,BROWN

[boooya]

Your gonna have to plastiguage to get accurate clearances for bearings. At this point just send the engine to the machine shop and have them put it together for you.

[Brian P]

RTFM

There are markings on the crankshaft and on each connecting rod and on the crankcase. (Absence of a marking is one of the choices.)

The shop manual explains which colour code of bearing is required for each combination of markings on the mating parts. (Main journals are sized according to crankcase and crankshaft, rod bearings are sized according to crankshaft and con-rods.)

You can not order the correct colour coded bearings until you have the actual crankcase set, crankshaft, and con-rods that you are going to use to build the engine.

[Brian P]

Boooya posted while I was typing. You are supposed to use plastigage to validate the correct selection while test-fitting the parts. It's ALL explained in the factory service manual.

Judging by the photos you are using, I have a feeling that you are using an aftermarket manual, not the factory service manual. It may or may not have all of the information that you need. The factory service manual does.

[ninjanewbie]

Did a little RTFM....and found info on how to use the plastigage to check for clearance....found the chart too...wow, I really can read




As I mentioned, this is a lot of new info for me.....good stuff, but a lot to take in....
So depending the crank/rod markings, you then choose the appropriate bearing assuming the crank and rods are within spec or min/max clearances.