Rotors for stunting....or racing

[JohnnyP636]

I had a feeling they were warped and I had my mechanic check it out. I can see a movement of the rotors when I'm riding. and When I got the front wheel up, the mechanic tried to spin the tire to see the free play and the tire would barely move. You could see and hear when the pads kept rubbing on the rotors. No dial guage reading.

I would like if they were lighter but I really don't care. I don't want to cheap out and get some used rotors. I'm willing to buy new but there is such a difference in prices. $220 for EBC, $295 for stock, $299 for Braking. The way I see it, if I'm going to be spending so much money, is there more benefits from going aftermarket? If they wear faster than OEM and are more expensive, then there is no point. but if they are lighter and cheaper but still good quality I will consider them.

When was the last time you changed your front tire? And where do you have that done? Reason I ask is Ive seen people bend rotors during tire changes...

Think of it like a cheese crater, the larger the holes the more aggressive it will be on the cheese. Same with rotors, the larger the holes and slots in the rotor, the more aggressive they will be on pad wear...

[strictlye]

When was the last time you changed your front tire? And where do you have that done? Reason I ask is Ive seen people bend rotors during tire changes...

Think of it like a cheese crater, the larger the holes the more aggressive it will be on the cheese. Same with rotors, the larger the holes and slots in the rotor, the more aggressive they will be on pad wear...

FACK......that would explain it. I got my tires changed this year. That's roughly the time I started having issues with my brakes. I replaced the lines shortly after, then brake pads......thought maybe the issues where the lines because the brakes were spongy. I had them bled 6 times. Nobody couldn't identify the problem. Everyone thought it was the lines or my master cylinder. Hertiage auto managed to get the brakes a little better by performing a brake service on it since the calipers were soo dry and the pads were getting caught up on the pins. It caused new pads to wear unevenly in 3 weeks. Just to realize that I'm getting a rough ride and braking cause of my warped rotors. Not sure what started the problem but everything snowballed on me.

Basically now, I want to replace the rotors and pads and start fresh with my new lines.

[JohnnyP636]

FACK......that would explain it. I got my tires changed this year. That's roughly the time I started having issues with my brakes. I replaced the lines shortly after, then brake pads......thought maybe the issues where the lines because the brakes were spongy. I had them bled 6 times. Nobody couldn't identify the problem. Everyone thought it was the lines or my master cylinder. Hertiage auto managed to get the brakes a little better by performing a brake service on it since the calipers were soo dry and the pads were getting caught up on the pins. It caused new pads to wear unevenly in 3 weeks. Just to realize that I'm getting a rough ride and braking cause of my warped rotors. Not sure what started the problem but everything snowballed on me.

Basically now, I want to replace the rotors and pads and start fresh with my new lines.

Some of the newer rotors have very weak pressed aluminum rotor carriers ( the center part that holds the rotor dics). And it does not take much to warp them, when you have the wheel off the bike for a tire change. They are constantly trying to make them lighter, and are doing this by making them really thin with lots of holes and cutouts. They work great in normal use, but do not take side force well (pressing on them sideways)...

My friend was helping me change his tires recently, and while trying to give me a hand he put his hand on the rotor and put weight on it. I didnt notice right away but when I saw him pressing there I yelled no no no! But it was too late, he had already bent the rotor...I told him you probably bent your rotor doing that, and he was like no way for real...Sure enough as soon as he test rode it he felt the pulsing of the bent rotor..

Just something to think about and keep in mind

[Vipes]

Some of the newer rotors have very weak pressed aluminum rotor carriers ( the center part that holds the rotor dics). And it does not take much to warp them, when you have the wheel off the bike for a tire change. They are constantly trying to make them lighter, and are doing this by making them really thin with lots of holes and cutouts. They work great in normal use, but do not take side force well (pressing on them sideways)...

My friend was helping me change his tires recently, and while trying to give me a hand he put his hand on the rotor and put weight on it. I didnt notice right away but when I saw him pressing there I yelled no no no! But it was too late, he had already bent the rotor...I told him you probably bent your rotor doing that, and he was like no way for real...Sure enough as soon as he test rode it he felt the pulsing of the bent rotor..

Just something to think about and keep in mind

Thanx for the tip. I'll be changing my tires soon and need to watch out for this.

What's a good way to change tire without bending the rotor with spoons? A piece of wood to get leverage for the spoon?

[JohnnyP636]

Thanx for the tip. I'll be changing my tires soon and need to watch out for this.

What's a good way to change tire without bending the rotor with spoons? A piece of wood to get leverage for the spoon?

Get a small barrel, you can get this foam cover for copper piping from hardware stores. Wrap that around the lip, and you have the best tire changing stand. The lip of the barrel will rest on the spokes of the wheel, this way your never putting any pressure on the rotor like you would if you just layed it on the ground...

[Vipes]

Nice setup.. I was contemplating getting the barrel. It looks like to be the best stand amongst the DIY changers. LOL

Do you balance your wheels? There is tons of mixed opinions on this. All the shops do it even thou u might not need it.

[JohnnyP636]

Nice setup.. I was contemplating getting the barrel. It looks like to be the best stand amongst the DIY changers. LOL

Do you balance your wheels? There is tons of mixed opinions on this. All the shops do it even thou u might not need it.

Yes we have a Snap on balancer at the shop now, but my rims arent balanced yet. Next tire change I will use it on the front now that I have it, but we got it for the customers. Ive been changing my own tires for years without balancing. In most cases its a waste of time, if the machine only says 10g your not gonna feel it. Now if the machine says 80g, you will most likely feel that in the front wheel at speed...

[Vipes]

Yes we have a Snap on balancer at the shop now, but my rims arent balanced yet. Next tire change I will use it on the front now that I have it, but we got it for the customers. Ive been changing my own tires for years without balancing. In most cases its a waste of time, if the machine only says 10g your not gonna feel it. Now if the machine says 80g, you will most likely feel that in the front wheel at speed...

Kool Johnny thanx.. Any ideas where I can score a drum easy?

[JohnnyP636]

Kool Johnny thanx.. Any ideas where I can score a drum easy?

Try looking at car and bike shops, sometimes they get their bulk oil and other lubricants in the small barrels you want..