ACCESSORIES, PRICE, and DEALING
* If the owner has lost the owner's manual and/or tool kit, drop a little money off the price of the bike. They're usually around $15-20 each to replace, and they're definitely nice things to have, particularly if you're new to riding.
* Similarly, even if you don't plan to do work on the bike yourself, it's nice to have a service (or "shop") manual, and I'd recommend picking one up even if the owner isn't selling one with the bike. You can learn a lot about your bike this way. Factory service manuals are usually the best, but Clymer and Haynes sell manuals for most models. Honda publishes a "Common Service Manual" for all their bikes (excellent and applicable to other makes too!), and a separate, smaller publication with specifics for each model. (You'll probably want both.)
* Often times the owner will have added accessories to the bike and will use them to justify an inflated price at sale time. (This includes helmets, but see below for those.) Exhaust pipes are another common example. The important issue is, would you pay extra for the accessories? If you don't really care about the accessories, they have no value to you, and you shouldn't pay more for them. If you want them (if you value them), only then are they worth paying more for. Note that "more" doesn't mean "more than the seller is asking", but "more than a base-line bike without these accessories." If the seller isn't willing to deal, find a bike that doesn't have said accessories, and you won't have to pay more for stuff you don't want.
* Some accessories are very nice to have, but you need to make that decision for yourself. Here are some examples:
o Exhaust: Aftermarket exhausts are generally lighter and louder than stock. If this is something that interests you (something you're willing to pay a little more for), find or figure out whether the aftermarket exhaust is a "full system" (replacement of all the pipes back from the engine) or a "slip-on" (replaces only the exhaust cannister, not any of the pipes.) Depending on condition (and whether the jetting is right -- see the section on carburation, above) full systems are probably worth $100-300, slip-ons are probably worth $50-200.
o Tank "Bra": Without a tank bra, metal zippers, buckles, buttons, and rivets on pants will scratch the back-side of the tank. Probably worth around $20.
o Centerstands let you perform some road-side maintenance that would otherwise be impossible -- but know ahead of time whether the centerstand is a standard or optional item, since it'll affect whether the "blue book" price of the bike includes the centerstand. (Same goes for all these accessories, really.) Probably worth around $30-50.
o Suspension components are a frequent upgrade. Units from Penske, Ohlins, Fox (and others) typically perform better than stock equipment, giving the bike better handling and comfort. Expect the seller to want a little more for such units. Typically $200-300 more or thereabouts. (Fox shocks are typically $550 new, Ohlins/Penske units start around $750.) Race Tech sells (among other things) fork tuning components -- their hardware is likely to be inside the forks, out of sight. Prices vary substantially -- figure on an extra $50 to $100.
o Extra Storage: Tank bags are also nice, since they let you carry more cargo. On the other hand, if that's something you never plan on using, who cares? Also potentially very nice: "hard" (plastic) or "soft" (nylon/leather) luggage. Cost will vary with condition, quality, and manufacturer... tank bags $30-60, soft luggage $80-120, and hard luggage $200-600.
* Modifications: generally, you'd be very wise to stay away from heavily-modified bikes. Even when done by a competent professional, high-compression pistons, overbores, high-performance cams, porting, etc. all lead to reduced engine longevity (or increased maintenance, or both) in the name of increased performance. When done by amateurs, these mods are instant engine killers. Make sure you ask the seller what modifications were made to the bike.
* On price... know what the bike is worth! Motorcycle Consumer News publishes a used bike prices list a couple of times a year. (Or visit the Kelley Blue Book web site's Motorcycle blue book values section, or NADAguides.com.) The author has found the Motorcycle Consumer News/AMA prices to be far more accurate when purchasing from private sellers. (Regarding the KBB site: used bikes being purchased from private sellers should be around half-way between the trade-in/wholesale price and the retail price. Used bikes being sold by dealers will probably be very close to the retail price.) Finally, you can also call the American Motorcyclist Association (1-800-AMA-JOIN) and purchase their used bike pricing guide. (Cost: around $9 or $10, I think.) After you get your bike, consider becoming an AMA member.
* Most used bikes are sold "OBO" ... or best offer. Offer a little less than how you value the bike (see above), and see if you can come to an agreement somewhere close to where you value the bike. And remember, $50 or $100 means very little in the long run. Be flexible. But don't be afraid to walk away and look at other bikes -- there are plenty of other bikes out there, and chances are this one will still be available if you want to come back later. The longer a bike has been for sale, the more price-flexible the owner is likely to be.
* Bike prices follow the laws of supply and demand like any other good... in the winter, when no one wants to ride and everyone needs to pay off Christmas-induced credit-card headaches, bikes are cheaper. In the spring, "when a young (wo)man's fancy turns to motorbikes," bikes are more expensive.
* You may have your own preferred method for arriving at a number to offer for the bike, but here's how I do it: take the "blue book" value of the bike (see above), and deduct the cost of repairs for each problem with the bike. The used bike buying guides assume a clean, completely functional vehicle, with appropriate wear and tear for its age. So it makes sense to deduct the cost of repairs to bring a used bike up to that standard. If the owner is asking less, great, if the owner is asking more, see if you can work them down a bit. If need be, explain how you arrived at your number -- sometimes the owner won't know about problems you've found! (Or wasn't including them in the price because (s)he was hoping you wouldn't notice.)
* As noted previously, beware used bike prices at dealerships, and prepare for sticker shock. A popular dealership local to the author frequently purchases used bikes for under "blue book" value, and marks them up to thousands of dollars over that value. When confronted with the fact that their used bike prices are wildly inflated, they reply, (paraphrased -- barely) "Eventually someone will give me what I'm asking for it, so why should I sell it to you for less?" They're not all like this, but dealerships of this kind are definitely out there: they know that there are plenty of uninformed buyers out there who just want a bike and don't know what an appropriate price is. (Shop around and figure out what the going price is!) The potential plusses that you get from buying from a dealership are that: 1) at least in theory, the bike has been tuned up prior to sale; 2) dealerships are typically more willing to fix any problems that you discover with the thing (inspect bikes thoroughly!); 3) if you're a new rider, you'll probably need to buy gear, and you can usually get a break on the price of gear if you also buy a bike from a dealership; and 4) related to #3, buying a bike from a dealership is a good way to start a long-term relationship with a them -- just make sure that if you decide to go this route, that you buy the bike from a good and reputable dealership with whom you'll want to have a long-term relationship. And now, the potential downsides: 1) scummy dealerships may not do work on the bike between buying it and reselling it (yet another reason for a close and thorough inspection); and 2) many times used bikes come only with an "as is" (or extremely limited) warranty -- not any better than what you'd get from an individual, particularly because your state may have "lemon laws" that give you recourse if the buyer sells you a bike that doesn't work. (Check with your local DMV or insurance agent.) The bottom line is that there may be benefits to buying a used bike from a good dealership, but many dealerships won't be any better than a private buyer -- and almost all of them (good dealerships included) will be more expensive. Still, it may pay to ask around, find the good shops, and see what they have. Just make sure to give bikes at dealers the same close inspection that you'd give to bikes being sold by individuals. If you know what you're doing (and this guide tries to arm you with the requisite knowledge), you have nothing to fear from going the route of buying a used bike from a private seller.
HELMETS
* Used helmets are worthless. Regardless of whether it fits you or not, do not count the price of a used helmet as part of the value of the bike. The owner may want to sell the helmet, either because it matches the bike or because (s)he is quitting motorcycling, but since you'll be throwing the helmet out (or, at absolute worst, keeping it as a pillion helmet), don't count its value towards the sale price of the bike.
* Used helmets are worthless because you cannot tell if they are damaged or not, and in many cases you don't know when they were made. (Snell-certified helmets should have a date-of-manufacture stamp -- look for one. It might be under the padded lining.) Even if they look good, used helmets might well be junk. Motorcycle helmets work by allowing a layer of expanded polystyrene (EPS) to crush, absorbing much of the force of an impact. Unless the hard outer shell is damaged, you cannot tell if the EPS inside is compressed or not. And even then, sometimes you can't -- covering damage with stickers is just as common with helmets as it is with plastic fairings.
* Furthermore, EPS becomes more brittle as it ages, and old/brittle EPS has only a small fraction of the original impact absorption abilities. And since you may not know when the helmet was made (who cares when the previous owner bought the thing), you don't know how "fresh" the EPS is. The EPS layer in helmets is also highly vulnerable to ultraviolet and chemical damage -- if, for example, the helmet's owner was in the habit of resting the helmet on the bike's gas tank, gas vapors from the fill cap have attacked and compromised the EPS lining. Or if the helmet was left out in the sun a lot, it could also be damaged from the ultraviolet component of sunlight. Arai (a leading helmet manufacturer) cites acidic sweat as a leading cause of premature EPS degradation. The EPS can also be compressed if the helmet is habitually rested on pointy objects like mirror-stalks or handlebars. The bottom line is, despite what the owner says, you do not know what condition the EPS liner is in, and the EPS liner is the vast majority of the helmet's crash protection.
* It's not worth the risk. Yes, in some cases, you can send the helmet back to the manufacturer to have it X-rayed. But that will only tell you if the EPS liner has been compressed, not if it has been chemically damaged. Since you'll never know for sure, buy yourself a good quality new helmet from a good quality manufacturer, and stay away from used helmets.
* And if you're still thinking of using a used helmet, realize that helmet fit is one of the most important criteria in selecting a helmet, and it's highly unlikely that a used helmet will fit you as well as one you get from a shop, where you actually get to try different sizes and brands. (Shapes vary subtly by manufacturer; some manufacturers' helmets will fit you better than others.) And if that isn't enough, helmets tend to break in as the padded liner conforms to the unique shape of the wearer's head. You have a different-shaped head than the seller. Get your head its very own new helmet.
TITLES & PAPERWORK
* Make sure that the VIN number on the bike matches the VIN on the title. To do this, you'll need to make sure that the seller has the title on hand when you go to see the bike. If (s)he doesn't, make sure you check this before you hand over the money. The VIN is usually marked near the steering head of the bike, one one of the frame spars, or on the steering head itself. If the VIN is damaged or appears to have been altered, the bike might be stolen -- write down the VIN, and see if the DMV or the police can verify that the bike has not been reported stolen and is registered to the same person trying to sell it.
* Make sure the bike has a good, clean title. Make sure that the owner signs the title over to you (on the back). Make sure that the owner is the seller ... check the name on the title. Make sure there are no liens on the bike, or if there were, that they've been released (look for release signatures on the front.) Do not buy a bike with un-released liens. Bikes with invalid odometer readings are worth significantly less than the blue book value -- look for a "999,999 miles - odometer discrepency" (or something similar) on the title. Same goes for a "salvage" title (it'll be clearly marked as a "salvage" or "total loss" title.) For a tip-off that the bike has been painted (possibly to hide damage -- see HAS IT BEEN CRASHED?, above), check the bike's color as listed on the title vs what it looks like now.
* Sometimes (not always?!) the DMV will want a "bill of sale" from the seller to you, indicating the price paid for the bike, the VIN, the date, the buyer's and seller's names, and the seller's signature. It's far easier to get this when you're exchanging money than to have to track the seller down later, so bring some blank paper and write something up. Make sure it says "bill of sale" and has the date and the seller's signature.
o Sometimes, you'll be tempted to have the bill of sale written up for a small amount of money ($100?) so the state won't assess you as much sales tax. Nifty trick, eh? Not so fast... there are two problems with this. Well, two problems aside from the fact that it's considered fraud. (In other words, illegal.) Problem #1 -- if the bike is stolen or totalled, your insurance company may only have to reimburse you for what you paid for the bike. If you claim that you bought the bike for $100, and your stolen bike was worth $5000, guess who's out $4900? (Hint: not your insurance company.) Problem #2 -- sometimes the state will ignore the stated sale price if it seems too low, and they'll just go off the blue book value. So you potentially screw yourself if the bike gets stolen AND you have to pay the full sales tax anyway. Don't waste your time with this. Be honest.
* Your state's maddening bureaucracy will probably vary a bit -- check with your local registry of motor vehicles and/or insurance. For example, vehicles in California must stay registered, and the penalty for not keeping current on the registration can be hefty. Californian buyers of Californian bikes should make sure that the registration is current, and if it isn't, have the seller pay to get the registration current before buying! (The California DMV can check this for you.) This was just an example -- even if you don't live in California, it really pays to know your state DMV's idiosyncrasies.
* Call the local DMV or police department, give them the VIN, and have them check the vehicle's title status. Depending on what your DMV will disclose, you may be able to get the vehicle's whole title history: a record of each time the bike changed hands, including the date and current mileage at each point. Or if it's stolen. You may also be able to find out if this is the original owner or the fourth person to own the thing. If you're dealing with the original owner, all you need to worry about is how honest he is and how well you can inspect the bike. When you're dealing with subsequent owners, you have no way of questioning them to determine what they did to it, why they sold it, etc. Buying a used bike is always something of a gamble, but you'll tend to make better choices the more information you have. Maybe buying from the second, third, or fourth owners is OK with you -- maybe you don't trust your bike inspection skills quite so much and would prefer to buy a bike that hasn't gone through so many hands. Maybe you'll even decide that you'd feel more comfortable buying a new bike. That's fine. It's your money, so the decision is entirely up to you and what you feel comfortable with. (See the section on QUIZZING THE SELLER, above, for more questions to ask the seller.)
* The seller may very well insist on keeping the license plate if, for example, it needs to be turned in to officially cancel the insurance on the bike. This is not an unreasonable request.
* Laws vary a bit from country to country -- for example, in some countries, liens are not listed on the title. (Canada is one example.) Check with the government's motor vehicle registration authority, your bank, your insurance agent, etc., to find out how to do a search for existing liens. This may cost extra money, and you may just want to have the seller certify (on the bill of sale, perhaps, but definitely in writing) that the bike is free and clear of liens.
TEST RIDE
* Most sellers probably won't give you a test ride for liability reasons, but bring riding gear just in case. You can learn a lot about a bike from a quick test ride, things you'd never notice by even the most thorough inspection. Sometimes sellers that won't give you a test ride will let you ride the bike once you've purchased it, with a money-back guarantee if you don't like it. In Massachusetts, riding a bike that you just purchased is illegal (unless somehow you already have insurance & plates for the thing), but if you're willing to break the law, you can learn a lot from a quick, clandestine spin around the block.
o Different areas will have different laws. For example, it may be possible to get single-day insurance and plates for a bike for the purposes of test-riding it. Ask your insurance agent and/or local government motor vehicle department to find out whether or not something like this is possible.
* It's a good idea to do the test ride last, after you've had a chance to go over the whole bike, since you won't want to ride a bike with safety problems. Don't ride the bike until you're satisfied that it's safe to ride.
* Plus, if you look the bike over, like what you see, the price is right, and you plan to buy the bike, you might be able to convince the seller that you plan to purchase the bike if you can test ride it, and that (s)he may lose a sale if you aren't allowed to. Unless you're really serious about not buying the bike unless you can go on a test ride, don't give the seller an ultimatum, since many sellers won't be flexible on the issue of test rides. If you've spent a long time going over the bike and the seller thinks you're serious, you stand a better chance of the seller letting you test ride the bike. In short, the time to ask for a test ride is after you've looked it over.
* But just because you've looked it over, that doesn't mean it's safe. Give it another check, this time from the mindset of checking something that you're about to ride. Any screws loose? How's the chain? Are the tires inflated properly? There are many more things to check than can possibly be listed here -- the point is, do a thorough pre-ride inspection on this vehicle and make sure it's safe to ride before you trust it with your life.
* Ok, so you've done a pre-ride inspection. But you're still going to be riding an unfamiliar bike, so take it easy and don't do anything stupid. The brakes, for example, might be poorly adjusted and extremely abrupt. (And crashing a test bike is a virtual guarantee that you're going to buy the thing.) This guide cannot possibly warn you about all the dangers that you might face riding someone else's motorcycle. Be extremely careful, and don't test ride a bike if you aren't comfortable with its mechanical condition or behavior. Test rides are done at your own risk.
* What you're looking for on a test ride:
o Engine/Clutch/Brake Operation: see how it revs, how the clutch feels, how well the brakes work, etc. It's very difficult to detect warped brake rotors unless you can get the bike up to speed, so here's your chance: Find a place where it's safe and legal to get the bike to highway speeds (55-65 mph) and and do a gradual (but firm) stop using the front brake only. If you felt a pulsing at the brake lever when you tried this, the rotors are probably warped. Repeat the test using only the rear brake. Be extremely careful not to lock it up -- allow for a much longer stopping distance, and stop much more gradually.
o Strangeness... strange wobbles or thumping, having to hold the bars a little bit to one side to get the bike to go straight (a sign of crash damage!), etc... Some shaking is to be expected, but look for shaking that goes up and down with road speed (problems with tires/wheels?), rather than shaking that goes up or down with engine speed. It's usually very hard to detect this stuff without very smooth pavement, so go find some.
o Do you want it? It can take a while to get comfortable with a bike. Nevertheless, to the extent possible in the short time that you're getting to ride this machine, try to answer some very important questions: "Is this the bike that I want to buy?" "Do I feel comfortable with this bike?"
* Another thing you can test is transmission operation...
o When testing the transmission, realize that problems often manifest themselves as an inability to shift or as "false neutrals," where power delivery through the transmission will be cut, just like the transmission doesn't output power when it's in the real neutral that usually lies between first and second. False neutrals can be dangerous, because the transmission can re-engage without warning, possibly locking the rear wheel and sending you flying off the bike. Forewarned is forearmed. Be careful.
o Does the bike shift well through the gears? Make sure you go up and down through all of them to make sure they all work. The hardest gear change is 1->2, since the change in gear ratio is the largest. If the bike won't shift well from first to second, the transmission could need some work, and that's pretty major. (Tip: don't be accelerating really hard when you try the 1->2 shift, since that's how it gets damaged in the first place.)
o Does the bike pop out of gear under moderate to hard acceleration? Don't accelerate abruptly on a test ride until you're very comfortable with the bike's power delivery -- you don't want to crash the thing. If possible, take the bike somewhere where you can go highway speeds, and try accelerating with medium throttle in each gear. If the bike slips out of gear (into neutral or a "false neutral") on hard acceleration, the transmission's dogs or shift forks are badly worn and the engine will need to be disassembled to fix the problem. In the vast majority of cases, transmission repair is a very expensive and time-consuming fix. Unless you have a very good reason to need this bike, go find another one.
o Does the bike pop out of gear under engine braking? Pay particular attention to second and third gears, but start in the bike's top gear. While travelling in a straight line, and at approximately half-redline in top gear (but not in excess of local speed limits) close the throttle quickly (but smoothly) and see if the bike pops into neutral. Downshift quickly (but smoothly) and try in the next gear down. Repeat in each gear until you're just putting along in first gear.
o If the owner won't let you test ride the bike but it has a centerstand, you can get the rear wheel off the ground with the centerstand, start the bike, get it into second gear, rev it up to half redline, lightly apply the rear brake to load the engine a bit, give it enough gas to maintain half-redline engine RPM, release the throttle, and firmly apply the rear brake to stop the rear wheel and stall the engine. If, in addition to stalling, it pops into neutral, BAD SIGN -- the gear dogs are badly worn. (Major transmission work.) Feel free to repeat this test with a little more rear brake if you went a little too light on the rear brake the first time.
+ Side note one: this test relies on a functional rear brake, and is going to get said rear brake HOT. Don't touch any exposed brake parts after you try this.
+ Side note two: two-strokes have essentially no engine braking due to the way their engines are designed. Don't expect any.
o Is it easy to find neutral when coming to a stop? If not, you could have a frustrating time approaching stop lights, and the problem might cost a lot to fix.
AFTER THE PURCHASE
* Have a professional mechanic do a full tune-up on the machine.
o Why? Well, since you're probably not a professional, trained mechanic, there are probably people out there more qualified than you to make sure the bike is in top condition and safe to ride. Don't be offended; the author isn't a professional mechanic either. Spend a little money and let a professional certify that the bike is safe to ride.
o Ask friends, other bikers, and/or Internet forums for recommendations on dealerships with good/honest service departments.
* Get the bike insured and registered. Never ride without health insurance and vehicle insurance.
* Take it easy as you get used to a new machine. Respect your bike's power and abilities and get used to it slowly. The Hurt Report shows that the majority of motorcycle accidents happen within the first 5 months of ownership.
* Congratulations! Enjoy your new bike!
INFO FOR NEW RIDERS ("The preachy part.")
* Go to a dealership and sit on a lot of bikes to feel what sort of riding position you like. Think about the kinds of bikes that are available, what you're interested in, and what you're willing to pay.
* A series of free brochures is available from an industry-sponsored council called "Discover Today's Motorcycling"... call 1-800-833-3995 to get them. The brochures cover types of bikes, financing, safety, etc.
* Generally speaking, it's good to start out with a smaller, lighter-weight used bike rather than buying the latest, coolest, fastest, sexiest bike new. Motorcycling is a passion you can pursue for many, many years -- don't scare yourself silly with a bike that's not meant for beginners. New riders should probably start with a four-cylinder bike of less than 600cc's, or a twin-cylinder bike of less than 750cc's. New riders should probably stay away from two-stroke bikes (a different engine technology, typically not found on street bikes after the 1985 model year.) Sportbikes tend to have a lot of expensive plastic, and plastic tends to break when bikes fall over. Almost everyone drops their first bike, usually more than once. This can get very expensive if your bike is covered in breakable plastic bits. (Don't get depressed if you drop your new bike -- think of it as joining the club of experienced bikers.)
* Long diatribe on what's wrong with many (not all!) dealerships:
Not many people seem to stick around in the motorcycle industry -- on either side of the counter -- and this will probably have an enormous impact on your experience with dealerships. Even if the salesmen you encounter at dealerships aren't working on commission, the only reason they're willing to work for slave wages is that they're young guys who are into bikes -- and they don't plan to be salesmen forever. As a result, they don't even think about building relationships with customers -- they just want to sell bikes. Which is only fair, because a lot of their customers don't care about the relationship either; they just want the latest fastest prettiest bike with the hot accessories. The bigger and more powerful bikes tend to have a higher profit-margin (difference between what the dealer buys them for and sells them for.) So dealerships will not look kindly on employees who try to talk novice riders out of bikes that will be dangerous for them (the big, powerful ones) in favor of good beginner bikes, because even if the salesman isn't making more money (in commissions) selling the higher profit-margin bikes, the dealership definitely is.
And so many salesmen at scummy dealerships will tend to push you towards more powerful, expensive bikes. (Or, at the very least, not dissuade customers who -- for whatever reason -- want the most powerful thing available.) The dealerships need high margins to stay in business in an industry with low volume, and a lot of them need that high profit margin that comes from the bigger bikes. When you never see most of your customers again, it's easy to justify trying to maximize profit-per-interaction rather than trying to build a long-term relationship that might be safer for the customer or potentially generate a greater total profit.
The bottom line is, their idea of a good bike for you is probably based on a different set of priorities than yours. Don't let them dictate your choice or talk you into something you don't want. Do your own research and make your own informed decision. As far as new vs used goes, it's probably wise for first-time riders to start with a used bike anyway, so when -- er, I mean if -- your bike tips over, there's less heartbreak.
* The counterpoint to this is the following: they're not all like this. find a good dealership and form a relationship with them. Talk to other bikers or folks on the 'net and get recommendations. Unless you've been doing this this for a long time and have a lot of money to spend on very specialized tools, you will almost certainly want to have a local shop that you can turn to when the bike isn't running right. It's true that you will pay a little more for stuff at a dealership, but in return, you're sure to get the right stuff, you don't pay "shipping & handling", and you foster good relations with the shop -- you'll have somewhere to go when you need help. Bike shops are run by people and generally act like people -- the nicer you are to them, the nicer they'll be to you. Just find one that you like, one that's honest and fair, and treat them the same in return. Don't support dealerships that are dishonest, take advantage of inexperienced riders, etc. Vote with your wallet. Let the scumbags go out of business.
* Get (and wear) good gear! Statistically speaking, you're most likely to crash in your first five months of riding. That's the time when you need the best safety gear!! Don't blow all your cash on a bike and only have enough money left to buy the minimum safety gear required by law. Wear pants, jacket, helmet, and gloves that were designed for motorcycling. Plenty of gear looks the part but doesn't act the part -- avoid "fashion weight" leather. Windbreakers offer zero protection in a crash. And don't think that just because you're taking a short trip to the store, that you don't need your safety gear. Most motorcycle accidents happen during short trips! Don't let your guard down just because the gear seems inconvenient.
* Take safety seriously. An oft-repeated motorcycle-industry aphorism is:
o "There are two kinds of riders in the world ... those who have gone down, and those who are going to go down."
If (when?) it happens to you, make sure you're wearing good gear. On a related note, here's a summer-oriented aphorism:
o "If it's too hot to wear your safety gear, it's too hot to ride."
* Don't ride without a valid motorcycle operator's license -- in most cases this will allow your insurance company to weasel out of covering you for any damage you cause in an accident. No insurance coverage means the other guy's lawyers come after you directly. Got $300,000 to spare on litigation? Not fun. Get your license!
* US riders: if you haven't already, take a Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) course. Call 1-800-446-9227 or visit http://www.msf-usa.org/. In many states, taking the MSF class counts as an approved "driver's ed" class, dropping insurance for your bike (and your car) by 10% or more!
o If you don't live in the US, make an effort to track down a local organization that trains motorcyclists. (For example, in Canada, this is handled either by local colleges or the Canadian Safety Council.)
o US motorcyclists: join the American Motorcyclist Association. They're the only organization that monitors legislative efforts nationwide and alerts us to pending laws that threaten our riding freedom. Call 1-800-AMA-JOIN or visit http://www.ama-cycle.org/.
* Ride like the cages ("cars") are trying to kill you. You never know when some idiot will pull out in front of you, claiming that they never saw you. Ride like you're invisible, because the cage drivers are blind. It's up to you to keep yourself out of accidents, so keep your skills sharp and always be alert.
* A very partial listing of good starter street bikes... (See Beginner Bikes magazine for a bunch of other good suggestions.)
o Honda Nighthawks and the CB series (but not the CBR series), Rebel 250 (cruiser, low seat-height), Hawk GT, XL and XR-L series
o Suzuki GS series (particularly the GS500) (but not the GSX or GSX-R series), Bandit 400, SV650, DR series, LS650 Savage
o Kawasaki EX500 or EX250 (slightly sporty; called the Ninja 500R and Ninja 250R in recent years), LTD250 (cruiser, low seat height), KLR series
o Yamaha XS/XT series, Seca, Seca II
o Buell Blast
(Model codes will vary from country to country -- these are US model codes.)
* Military pilots don't start flying on the latest fighter jets, they spend years training on equipment that's easier to control. Don't end up a smear on the pavement because you wanted to skip ahead to the advanced part. Focus on building your skills and honing your reactions and you'll survive long enough to be a fighter pilot.
o "All the enthusiasm, intelligence, and good intentions in the world don't qualify you to fly an F-16 without training." Anon
o Example: the author of this page rides a CBR900RR these days: a very fast and very plastic-covered sportbike. But it is also his 8th motorcycle -- his first one was an 250cc cruiser. And the CBR900 was purchased after he'd been riding for 6 years. There's nothing stupid about learning to ride on a relatively nonthreatening bike. There's everything stupid about buying something that you don't know how to control, wadding it, and hurting or killing yourself in the process.
* Stop to help other bikers that look like they need help, even if you're in your cage. Cagers definitely don't look out for bikers, so it's up to us to look out for each other.
* And by the same token, wave to your fellow riders. Camraderie is one of the things that makes riding fun.
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