SV650 speedometer issues? Easy fix.

[TeamGreen]

A few weeks ago on my way home, I noticed my speedometer on my 2003 SV650S stopped working. As I was on the highway it was reading 0/8/2/10/0/etc. Kind of flopping all over the place but never going above 10 or so. After some research (thanks to sv650.org and svrider.com), I learned that this is a common problem with the SV650. The issue is the speedometer rotor (also known in Suzuki parts as the "magnet") seems to be made of... well.. some sort of cheese that just disintegrates .

I'm not much of a DIYer, but I decided this was one I would try on my own - I figured the shops would charge a minimum 1 hour labor to remove the front wheel and replace the rotor. I took that money and invested in a front triple tree stand ($65) and ordered the part ($30). Now, I know I should have probably taken the wheel off and diagnosed the problem before ordering the part, but I went ahead and assumed this was my issue (in the interest of time).

So, last night, after removing the front wheel, this is what I found:



As you can see, the rotor on the right is missing 3 of its teeth and the other one is almost worn off completely (it should look like the one on the left).



You can see here in the wheel where its supposed to fit in, along with all of the ground of pieces of plastic (cheese) that are left over.

So, everything back together and torqued correctly (have to be careful lining the rotor up or the ends will snap off again!), I took it for a test ride and not only is it now working, but I've noticed that the speedometer is much more accurate at low speeds now (I'm guessing it had slowly deteriorated).

I hope this thread helps anyone who runs into an issue with their SV650 speedometer. I figure I spent as much as I would have bringing it to the shop, but now I have a front stand to do other projects

FYI - the part number for a 2003 SV650S is 34983-21E00. Note that this part is not interchangeable with other years as people have reported their speeds reporting half or double actual if they used a part from another model year.

Now - I have one question for those who are mechanically inclined... I followed the owners/service manual as to torque specifications, and tightened the caliper bolts, axle bolt and axle lock bolt according to spec - however, in comparison to the amount of force that was required to remove these bolts, it didn't seem like much. I assume I am to trust the manuals, even though it seems it should be tighter?

[SweetOnion]

Nice post, glad it worked out for you!! Is that bicycle in your avatar for sale??
(yes, I see the Failblog)

[Rob]

Now - I have one question for those who are mechanically inclined... I followed the owners/service manual as to torque specifications, and tightened the caliper bolts, axle bolt and axle lock bolt according to spec - however, in comparison to the amount of force that was required to remove these bolts, it didn't seem like much. I assume I am to trust the manuals, even though it seems it should be tighter?

Most likely the one who tightened it prior to you removing the wheel over thightened it, a common practice amongst some DIYer's As long as torque wrench is properly calibrated and your using the correct spec setting, inch lbs vs. ft lbs etc, you should be OK.

[TeamGreen]

Most likely the one who tightened it prior to you removing the wheel over thightened it, a common practice amongst some DIYer's As long as torque wrench is properly calibrated and your using the correct spec setting, inch lbs vs. ft lbs etc, you should be OK.

Thanks - pretty sure the wrenches are in good working order - and I triple checked the specs and units

I wonder why they make a part that is just so destined to fail.

[frekeyguy]

Most likely the one who tightened it prior to you removing the wheel over thightened it, a common practice amongst some DIYer's As long as torque wrench is properly calibrated and your using the correct spec setting, inch lbs vs. ft lbs etc, you should be OK.

Yes that could be an issue...But usually it is.

- Thread locker being used -> you need to use some sorta loctite to prevent the fastens from rattling loose, these will bond to the fasteners and the mating surface (threads) over time.

- Material Difference -> The bolts are usually stainless steel, but the forks are aluminum....non-ferrous and ferrous materials can bond over time.

- heat/cooling cycles -> parts that heat up cool down will bond over time, expansion/contracting forces.

So it may seem like the bolts are tight, but in reality they are bonded in some sort of way.....

If you torque to spec and use loctite you should be ok.

[sportbiker_kev]

If you didn't use loctite, and it seemed like they should be tighter - you might want to either tighten them some more (which is what I would do), or take them out again and put a little loctite on them.

Same thing happened to my SV a few years ago.

[TeamGreen]

If you didn't use loctite, and it seemed like they should be tighter - you might want to either tighten them some more (which is what I would do), or take them out again and put a little loctite on them.

Same thing happened to my SV a few years ago.

I was wondering about the loctite, since nothing in the manuals mentioned using anything. I didn't apply it but was wondering if I should. Sounds straightforward enough for the caliper bolts, but would you also apply it to the axle bolt?

I'm leary of overtightening as I don't want to ruin the threads. Maybe that's not an issue?

[dankyyz]

If you didn't use loctite, and it seemed like they should be tighter - you might want to either tighten them some more (which is what I would do), or take them out again and put a little loctite on them.

Same thing happened to my SV a few years ago.

Mine blew up a year ago as well. Glad that was all it was.

[GreyGhost]

I was wondering about the loctite, since nothing in the manuals mentioned using anything. I didn't apply it but was wondering if I should. Sounds straightforward enough for the caliper bolts, but would you also apply it to the axle bolt?

I'm leary of overtightening as I don't want to ruin the threads. Maybe that's not an issue?

If you use loctite, I like to use light blue, but you could also use blue. Light blue is easier to break free than blue, red requires heat to break it free so avoid red.

[sportbiker_kev]

I'm leary of overtightening as I don't want to ruin the threads. Maybe that's not an issue?

Nothing to worry about, unless you're using an impact or air ratchet. Just use hand tools and make them pretty tight, but not crazy tight.