$4 DIY Slide Stops! 05 R6 & 06-09 R6S! Improve throttle response. better acceleration

Requirements:
- 05 R6 or 06-09 R6S
- POWER COMMANDER! with a special map for use with slide stops (or I suppose if you're using AutoTune it'll do it for ya)!!

These two maps were available from Graves at some point in the past (RIGHT CLICK, SAVE TARGET AS):
GRAVES.R6.03.P.SS.PR.ST - Full Graves Exhaust + Graves Slide Stop Kit
and
GRAVES.R6.03.P.SS.PR !!RACE USE ONLY!! Full Graves Exhaust, Graves Slide Stop Kit
*Note: If your bike has a rough idle after loading either of the above maps, adjust the 0% column from 0 RPM to 2250 RPM with a different number until your idle is smooth.

- Slide Stop Install Instructions! Also archived HERE in case that link dies.

Apparently this won't work on 03 and 04 R6's because they have a low fuel pressure problem on the fuel rail when you do this. Graves sells a fuel pressure booster (looks a like a washer? lol) that apparently fixes the problem.

Graves wants $75 for their 4 pieces of aluminum pipe (in case anyone wants to make it out of aluminum pipe, 1.5" NPS SCH 30 x 38mm long is what Graves uses) and after reading the Turbo R6 project thread I decided I'd make some slide stops myself! I mean if they're holding up on that crazy beast, they'll damn sure hold up on mine!

Supplies:

4 x 1.25" CPVC Couplings (*NOTE: "common" PVC is not gasoline recommended):

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050552.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

Tools:

- Something that can measure length ACCURATELY, micrometer, etc.
- A saw, preferably one that can cut straight (to cut the couplings down to 39/38mm in length).
- Dremmel or file or be creative (to remove part of the "lip" inside the couplings).
- Phillips #2 screw driver BIT (to have fun removing the screws from the slide caps!)
- A bench grinder works great for beveling the edges but I guess that's optional.

Instructions:

Ok, to make the slide stops it's pretty damn easy. If you're going to bevel the edges I would cut the couplings down to 39mm, if not cut it down to 38mm.

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050556.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

After you've cut them to the desierd length you need to remove part of the lip that's inside the coupling. Make sure you get rid of it right flush to the wall of the coupling. The slide rail is a super tight fit so if you leave any material there, it wont. You need to remove two chunks (opposite eachother) or you can remove the whole damn ring if you want.

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050558.jpg
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Now you can do a test fit of the stock slide rail! You want to make sure that it goes all the way in, until the coupling is hard against the rubber boot base (and totally flush/level!).

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050564.jpg
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If the coupling snugs right up against the boot base then go ahead and bevel the edges (if you cut your coupling to 39mm). The reason why I beveled the edges is two fold. 1, it allows the coupling to sit perfectly flush against the slide stop housing, and 2, it allows the boot to sit naturally instead of bending itself over the edge of the coupling and throwing off the length of the boot and the alignment when you try and put it back in the throttle body!

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050570.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

Repeat the process three more times so you have four in total.

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050571.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

Now you can install them back in the throttle body! Make sure the coupling is tight against the boot base before inserting it into the throttle body. MAKE SURE TO PUT THE SPRING BACK IN WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE IT!

Remember, the SHORTER your slide stop is the more the slide protrudes into the throttle body opening. The longer the slide stop is the more tucked away the slide will be.

I'm a bit of a perfectionist so I wanted my slides to be totally flush with the throttle body wall, not tucked in, not protruding. I used my grinder and took little bit by little bit off my 39mm completed units until the slide was 100% flush with the throttle body wall :)

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050575.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

Here is a pic BEFORE the slide stops are installed (the way the bike comes from the factory):

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050548.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

And here is what it should look like if you've done everything correctly :)

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...l/P1050580.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

She idles a little lower than before, about 150rpm less, has a super nice deep growl at idle, AND when you roll on it! YOUTUBE VID!! If you've got good speakers and/or a subwoofer crank it up!

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...rcommander.jpg
LICK FOR YOUTUBE VID!!

I think that's it!?

Twist it and rip it!

-Jamie M.

What did you do to bump up the fuel pressure? Ive installed a few slide stop kits on R6's, and they all came with a little billet machined jet, that goes on the fuel regulator to bump up the fuel pressure to work with the slide stops...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnnyP636

What did you do to bump up the fuel pressure? Ive installed a few slide stop kits on R6's, and they all came with a little billet machined jet, that goes on the fuel regulator to bump up the fuel pressure to work with the slide stops...

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Taken right from the Graves site:

Quote:

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Yamaha R6 2005 and R6S 2006-2009 Slide Stop Kit - This kit does not come with a "fuel booster" add-on as this model has increased fuel pressure over previous models and do not need it.

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Apparently only the 03 and 04 R6's suffer the low fuel pressure problem.

-Jamie M.

I went out for my first ride on my new bike today (first time riding anything since my accident on July 17th 2011)!!! It was 7 degrees when we left and warmed up to 9 degrees while we were out. Did about 220km's round trip, and was super nice seeing all the fall colours! Sorry I didn't get any scenic pics but everyone was too cold to stop for photos! lol.

http://likestuff.globat.com/r6/2011-...st_ride_SM.jpg
LICK FOR HIGH RES!

My new bike is an absolute MONSTER under 10,000RPM! Makes my old 08 R6 and my GF's new 09 R6 look silly http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/images/smilies/flex.gif

I think the slide stops and the +4 ignition rotor really helped with the power down low!

Love this weather, so much power, such little traction!

-Jamie M.
(P.S. OMG love the sound of my new exhaust! *orgasm*)

Just curious, as I don't have an R6. What are these supposed to do, improve throttle response? IIRC the R6 had a weird throttle body, like a CV carb body but without any fuel or air jets. I guess the CV slides were a cheap way of dealing with the super twitchy feel of early fuel injection?

And why would fuel pressure matter?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TwistedKestrel

Just curious, as I don't have an R6. What are these supposed to do, improve throttle response? IIRC the R6 had a weird throttle body, like a CV carb body but without any fuel or air jets. I guess the CV slides were a cheap way of dealing with the super twitchy feel of early fuel injection?

And why would fuel pressure matter?

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Slides were used to smooth out throttle response same way that newer bikes now use a secondary butterfly to control the sudden inrush when going from partially open to WFO.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TwistedKestrel

Just curious, as I don't have an R6. What are these supposed to do, improve throttle response? And why would fuel pressure matter?

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They were to smooth out throttle response. I rode it for the first time yesterday, and let me tell you. The first corner I was in, I went to roll on the throttle coming out of it and WHOLY CRAP! It just picked the front end right up!! Have to be very gentle with the mid corner roll on's with the slide stops pinned open.

I feel it makes a HUGE difference at ANYTHING under 10,000rpm. The power is instant, not smooth and lackluster like the stock R6!!!

-Jamie M.