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I am looking to replace coolant on my Yamaha FZ6 with something decently priced. I read about Engine Ice but it seems for high performance and a can is about $30 before tax for 1.9L and my bike needs 2L and 0.25L on the reservoir. Don't feel like spending $70+ tax on coolant.
I was wondering what coolant you guys are running in your bikes and where you are buying it?
I run whatever cheap stuff canadian tire has on sale.
How bout just running water wetter with distilled water ?Quote:
Originally Posted by subaron
or you could run Engine Ice but top up the rest with distilled.
I love engine ice :) Great freeze protection, great boil over protection, INSANE heat transfer!! :D Keeps my bike running WAY cooler than other R6's I ride beside on my group rides! I hear everyones fans whirring away and my temp gauge is only at 86 (fans come on at 102), lol! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by infernobuster
-Jamie M.
Premixed Honda engine coolant for cars...
Prestone pre mix. Canadian Tire and it's what the OEM requires. What makes you think you need something exotic?
Agree.... if your not racing.... go to crappy and get some Prestone. Dont be fooled into spending your hard earned money.Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDogDarren
Not advisable to run non-motorcycle specific coolant unless you're certain it's silicate free.
and if you are racing, you wouldn't pass tech inspection with coolant.Quote:
Originally Posted by normal_deviation
I run that pre-mixed prestone stuff in my FZ6, my MXZ 800X (sled) and in my yz250f that I race and sees harder conditions than my FZ6 ever will.
Its clear that if he is asking what kind of coolant to use.... Its safe to assume he is not racing so he really does not need to worry bout tech insp. lolQuote:
Originally Posted by onecartel
It's spec is good for bikes. Read the label to make sure you get the right one, just common sense.Quote:
Originally Posted by Acadian1974
The thread header says street bike.Quote:
Originally Posted by onecartel
I have same bike (it's for sale now but still riding it). I flushed coolant last year and used Honda's premixed stuff (for bikes not cars).
Honda Type 2 Antifreeze/Coolant. 3.78 liter jug for less than $20 at any Honda Powersports dealer. I got mine at Ready Honda.
https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...ECRjc_feQKvEme
Whatever cheap crap is one sale at CT. As long as it is Aluminum rad safe. Ran Engine Ice last season, didn't see any noticeable difference.
Thanks for all the replies guys!
I am considering Honda Type 2 Antifreeze/Coolant considering the price is similar to others at CT.
Now I am not sure what coolant the previous owner ran or if was even changed or topped up since the first owner got the bike (its a 2005). I from what I understand its not good to mix coolants.
Any suggested ways on doing a coolant flush? I was planning on the following steps:
1) Emptying out the current coolant
2) Run distilled water for a quick ride...let the bike cool down and empty distilled water
3) Fill Honda Type 2 and be done with for a couple years.
...but as forums and internet go I read about using some flush but did not say how since the bottle is half a liter and I would need to buy a few....unless it is mixed with distilled water. Then I read that its too had for motorcycle radiators and cooling system and its better to use distilled water mixed with vinegar (which almost sounds like bad advice).
I was on the FZ6 forum to see what others were using and Engine Ice was in the top 3 choices.
http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/garag...html#post34653
I am planning on keeping the bike for a while (esp with all the customization) and was looking to put in something decent...didn't have to be exotic.
its the same coolant for cars and bikes....Quote:
Originally Posted by mongol777
https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...ECRjc_feQKvEme
You've got the basic idea, but you don't have to run distilled water in your bike then drain it.Quote:
Originally Posted by subaron
1- Drain existing coolant into a bucket
2- With the drain plug still open pour distilled water in through the rad cap opening until the fluid runs clear at the drain plug
3- After you see the fluid run clear at the drain plug stop pouring the distilled water and let the remaining fluid drain completely
4- Close the drain plug and fill the bike with the specified amount (check manual) of coolant
5- Follow the procedure listed in your manual for bleeding the cooling system of any air or air bubbles (important)
Recommend you get the specific manual for your bike before you undertake this procedure. It will explain the correct method for changing your coolant.
BINGO +1!Quote:
Originally Posted by Acadian1974
Many OEM specified coolants have special "low silica" properties that are made to work specifically with the special type of pump seals that they have. They are sometimes noted as being "High Mileage" for a reason.
Some should make a note to be careful when advising others if you don't have all the information on a topic as it can cause others a lot of grief.
I did the coolant change a couple days ago. There was no mention of air bleeding in the manual.
I basically flushed the system with distilled water several times. Than added the coolant in the radiator and the reservoir tank to the max mark. I turned the bike on with the radiator cap off and let it idle for 10 mins. I saw some bubble come out. Then I put the radiator cap on and went for a ride. I checked the reservoir tank yesterday while the bike was on center stand and noticed that the coolant level is at the mid point between min and max mark.
Question: Should I top up the reservoir tank to max or leave it as is?
Are you running a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water? Here's why I ask: Anti-freeze is 10 TIMES heavier than water! If you are running a 50/50 mix, your engine is working 5 times harder just to move the coolant mixture around than if you were running straight water. Of course, water is extremely corrosive, so you cannot run straight water, right? Put only enough anti-freeze in your system that will get it to the lowest temperature you expect it to reach. Add redline 'Water Wetter'. This breaks up the surface tension of the water, making it easier for the engine to move the fluid around. And use distilled water, which does not have the heavy mineral content that tap water does.
The density of ethylene glycol is 1.113 g/cm3, only 11% more than water , which is 1.000 g/cm3 by definition. The VISCOSITY, on the other hand, is much higher. The viscosity of a glycol/water mixture is not a linear relationship, though, and for reasonable mixing ratios it makes little difference to the amount of effort it takes to turn the water pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by imkruzen
Compared to water, ethylene glycol has higher viscosity, somewhat higher density, about half the heat capacity, but a higher boiling point and lower freezing point.
50/50 mix doesn't provide optimum cooling. To improve cooling in hot weather, use less antifreeze and more water, possibly going to a 25/75 or a 20/80 mix ratio. Temperature drops about 3 degrees C are typically obtained by reducing the mix ratio from 50/50 down to 25/75 or to 20/80. The boiling point of pure water is 100C. The 50/50 mixture increases it to 106C. Pure antifreeze has a boiling point of 113C Pressurized systems will raise the boiling point in those cases. At 65% anti freeze mixture you’ve lost 20% of the cooling capacity of the system. Antifreeze prevents corrosion, but even a 10/90 ratio of antifreeze to water will serve the purposes of inhibiting corrosion and adding such additives as water wetter helps. In some states where it never goes below freezing, anti-freeze isn't used at all, just the corrosion inhibitors. You want more water to increase the efficiency of your cooling system, but at least 10% coolant to keep O-rings and the water pump lubricated.
I am running 50/50 mix (Honda Type II) coolant.
So I should top up the reservoir tank to max with distilled water?
Waterless Coolant Lasts a Lifetime in your Engine