Just wondering if anyone can recomend someone reputable with knowledge to set up some different MAPs on my race bike.
Thanks
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Just wondering if anyone can recomend someone reputable with knowledge to set up some different MAPs on my race bike.
Thanks
Cycle Pro in Brantford. In house dyno with wideband O2
I have also heard good things about Ryan Gill at Rider's Choice. Have never even met him, but I have heard many times in the past few yrs thathe is quite good at Power Commander mapping and suspension setup
Z1 they have a DynoJet Dyno. Probably the best place around to get your power commander programed.http://www.z1cycletech.com/motorcycl...ne-tuning.html
Z1,they have the most advanced tuning equipment in the gta-This is not debatable ,it is fact
Thanks for your help guys, I think I'll give them a call.
Ryan isnt at RC anymore he is setting up on his own
Pro 6 is a good option with a dyno as well as Adjustment Tech in Peterborough if your east end.
what about jetting? sorry for the hijack
I had Platinum Powersports do the jetting on my racebike (1996 Yamaha YZF600). Donald installed a bung and oxygen sensor in my Hindle header and used a wideband O2 sensor to tune the jet kit. Turned out very well. No flat spots and on an otherwise stock motor (jets/pipe/filter) I had older GSXR750s and YZF750s that couldn't stay in my draft on the straights.
thanks ill give him a call tomorrow if i can find time.Quote:
Originally Posted by omnivore
That is the right way to do it. If you are doing the testing on a dyno, you can use exhaust-gas analysis without having to modify the exhaust system. Proper EGA equipment can tell you things that a wide-band won't, either ... but you can't fit proper EGA equipment on the bike while riding it. Having a wide-band air/fuel gauge installed on the bike while riding it can account for the effects of ram-air (if your bike has it - Omnivore's doesn't) and that's something you can't do on the dyno.Quote:
Originally Posted by omnivore
Buy an auto-tune system(Bazzaz etc) so you have tuning done as per the conditions at hand.Quote:
Originally Posted by 08CBR1000
As a novice, peak power isn't going to be important, you want rideability.
+1 I had a full system Akrapovic and PCV with auto tune, just installed it used the map off their webside for the Akra and let the auto tune tweak it. And at my level of track riding that was more then tuned enough for me....Any money I could have spent on tuning would be better spent on suspension...Quote:
Originally Posted by reciprocity
...........Good ..........:idea1:Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyP636
Champion Cycle in Toronto. they specialize in race & performance bikes.
In house 250I with wideband 02 & load control.
They did my bikes. great bunch of guys
Same here, the PCV with the autotune is pretty good, I was impressed with the Map from their website for the M4, it smooth the hell out of the bikeQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyP636
Guys from Z1 are great, they did all the work on my ZX6r, on my GSXR I have done all the work myself
My bike has a YoshEm pro system on it and has been tuned to make just under 185. If I add a bazzaz unit and use the auto tune with different fuels (U4.4 and U4.4/pump gas) will it be safe for the motor? Would it be more cost effective to do this and skip dyno tuning? I`m not worried about peak hp but being able to use the different combinations of fuel.
Those are leaded fuels, which will not play nice with the lambda sensor used in any system like this (or even with a gauge). Realistically, if you set it up (by autotune or whatever) on normal pump gasoline, and you are not flirting with lean or rich misfire limits, it will run fine on those fuels (with the lambda sensor removed and the fuel-injection controller map locked down).
I was told you could use the sensor temporarily say twice a season for a short period without harming it.
If the timings been advanced which I'm assuming it is would the bazzaz take this into accout or let me know if there's any knock?
Anyone know of tuner that tunes the Yoshimura unit?
Monitoring the air/fuel ratio is of no help when it comes to knowing whether you have detonation or not. Varying the ignition timing doesn't change the air/fuel ratio. Your engine doesn't have a knock sensor, and detonation with the engine near full load is usually inaudible behind all the other noise that the engine is making. If it's a stock engine with stock compression ratio and someone hasn't gone completely stupid with the ignition timing, it shouldn't be a problem.
The Yosh box is a Suzuki-only thing. What bike are we talking about here? I'm pretty sure Ryan Gill (Condor Racing - his own shop) can do it, Z1 Cycletech can probably do it.
It's a superbike that was originally Clint Mcbains (08 gsxr 1000) I don't have any specs on the motor but I don't think it's a crazy build only needing to make 185ish. I guess a proper Dyno tune and a look at the amount of timing is absolutly necessary if I want to use differnet fuel. I was just going with what I know for tuning cars so thanks for the explinations and help Brian.
You can use the A/F tuning units the fuels mentioned without issue.
These units, with lamba sensors are being used by everyone in Canadian Superbike while running leaded fuels.
So provided my comp ratio isn't extremly high I should be ok with the self tune?
How can I measure my comp ratio without opening the motor?
Should be able to look up the specs for stock. If you know what your squish is you should be able to figure it out based on OEM comp ratio and bore/stroke.Quote:
Originally Posted by dricked
Contact your engine builder!Quote:
Originally Posted by dricked
Quote:
Originally Posted by caboose483
I bought the bike with the motor built so I have no clue what my squish is.Quote:
Originally Posted by reciprocity
I'll see if I can contact the builder, hopefully he still has the specs.
If the pistons are not stock, the squish clearance compared to stock won't help. You need to "cc" the combustion chambers with the pistons at TDC. I've done it with oil measured by a syringe into the spark plug hole with the engine held so that the spark plug hole is vertical, the tricky bit in your case will be seeing when the oil is level with the bottom of the spark plug hole (because the spark plugs are buried way down inside). If you can figure out a way to do that then you can do it this way. Just make sure you get the oil OUT of the cylinder before you crank the engine, to avoid hydro-lock. You can suck some of it back out with the syringe, then crank the engine over with the starter several revolutions before re-installing the spark plugs. The more you can get out with the syringe the less mess this second step will make ;) Also, for this purpose you only really need to do one cylinder. The others ought to be close enough.
Compression ratio = (Single cylinder displaced volume) / (number of cc it took to fill the chamber at TDC on compression stroke) + 1
If it's 13-ish it ought to be okay on pump premium, if it's 14-ish probably not ...